Check out this seat cowl I rattle canned.
09-14-2007, 02:04 AM
#1
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Check out this seat cowl I rattle canned.
Spraypaint. First try.
Primer, enamel, clearcoat. Lots of wetsanding.
This piece has a few blemishes, but I might do my entire bike.
Veerrrrrry time consuming.
Last edited by Anto; 09-14-2007 at 02:11 AM.
09-14-2007, 03:48 AM
#2
evil man of nothing
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That looks pretty darn good. I did a helmet once and did the same thing, wetsanding, polishing and it looked awesome. The one thing I did notice though was the spray paint just never seemed to get as hard as what comes out of a gun. Ever notice that?
09-14-2007, 06:35 AM
#5
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Great results.
I've done an entire sport bike that way and it was pretty labor intensive with all that wet sanding and polishing to get those kind of results.
The downside: it lasted less than a year as it chipped/scratched too easily and was not impervious to gasoline/strong chemicals. If I were to try it again, I'd use color-rite's line but that would by $$$ compared to the $50 worth of off-the-shelf spray bombs I used.
I've done an entire sport bike that way and it was pretty labor intensive with all that wet sanding and polishing to get those kind of results.
The downside: it lasted less than a year as it chipped/scratched too easily and was not impervious to gasoline/strong chemicals. If I were to try it again, I'd use color-rite's line but that would by $$$ compared to the $50 worth of off-the-shelf spray bombs I used.
09-14-2007, 07:31 AM
#7
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Looks nice! anyone know if any automotive type clears with hardener are compatible with the rattle can paints? If so you would still save some $ on the color but the harder clear would hold up much better.
09-14-2007, 08:31 AM
#8
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Try your local auto body paint supply. As I've said in other posts, my local shop has a machine to put custom mix automotive quality
paint in rattle cans. You have to buy a quart ($60 including cost of cans of automotive quality clear) and have them mix in the bumper paint flex compound so it doesn't crack when you take parts of. I would also use body shop primer too since off the shelf is soft - a weak foundation that makes hard paint come off.
paint in rattle cans. You have to buy a quart ($60 including cost of cans of automotive quality clear) and have them mix in the bumper paint flex compound so it doesn't crack when you take parts of. I would also use body shop primer too since off the shelf is soft - a weak foundation that makes hard paint come off.
09-14-2007, 08:34 AM
#9
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AFAIK, they all preached a matched system not to be mixed with others. If I was to gamble again, I'd try spray bomb paints with color-rite's spray can clear ($30/can).
I was off by 10-15f on a spraying temperature recommendation while applying clear with a pro gun and it turned to sheeeeet within minutes and that was with a matched system!
I was off by 10-15f on a spraying temperature recommendation while applying clear with a pro gun and it turned to sheeeeet within minutes and that was with a matched system!
09-14-2007, 08:38 AM
#10
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Try your local auto body paint supply. As I've said in other posts, my local shop has a machine to put custom mix automotive quality
paint in rattle cans. You have to buy a quart ($60 including cost of cans of automotive quality clear) and have them mix in the bumper paint flex compound so it doesn't crack when you take parts of. I would also use body shop primer too since off the shelf is soft - a weak foundation that makes hard paint come off.
paint in rattle cans. You have to buy a quart ($60 including cost of cans of automotive quality clear) and have them mix in the bumper paint flex compound so it doesn't crack when you take parts of. I would also use body shop primer too since off the shelf is soft - a weak foundation that makes hard paint come off.
Some great advice there. I need to match a fender on another bike and will check into this around my area as we have nothing locally like that.
I think a weak primer caused the easy stone chips on my vfr above while a weak clear allowed even a tank bag to make impressions in it.
09-14-2007, 02:43 PM
#11
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I've heard that spraypaint clearcoat can be pretty hard, as long as you wait months for it to cure.
I'm currently looking for an automotive clearcoat that comes in a can, something rock hard that won't chip. I've heard of the $50 roller paint method, but I don't have the time for that. Spraypaints are more convenient, and can yield similar results.
The acrylic enamel i'm using now should hold up. The clearcoat is still soft, but i'm going to Honda Polish it (UV protection) and leave it in the sun for a few days for it to cure.
I'm currently looking for an automotive clearcoat that comes in a can, something rock hard that won't chip. I've heard of the $50 roller paint method, but I don't have the time for that. Spraypaints are more convenient, and can yield similar results.
The acrylic enamel i'm using now should hold up. The clearcoat is still soft, but i'm going to Honda Polish it (UV protection) and leave it in the sun for a few days for it to cure.
09-14-2007, 03:24 PM
#12
evil man of nothing
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You guys might be better off getting some advice from a paint shop and getting better quality paints and clears and spraying them with one of those small preval co2 sprayers. Like I said I've tried using rattle cans but no matter how good of a job you do the durability just doesn't seem to be there.
09-15-2007, 08:46 AM
#13
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most paint shops can load the paint into a spray can for you. So if you want $$$ paints in a method you can use, they can load it. It would probably save$$ over buying a branded spray bomb that costs $30 a can.
09-15-2007, 08:52 AM
#14
evil man of nothing
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Good point...I did the bumper on my car like this. Nearby paint shop does just that.
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