you can clearly watch if the slides move(lift the front of your tank and run with the airbox lid off), anything at idle, will not be affected with the needles, or likely the slides(I cannot remember but believe the slides are FULL closed at idle). Adjust your FWD cyl mixture and re-sync, you'll likely be happy.

 

With carbs ( in case you havent dealt with small jets on japanese engines before )
make sure you break them all the way down before cleaining, and make double sure you clean out the pilot jet ( the smallest one ) with a jet cleaner or a tiny wire
(guitar strings make good jet cleaners)
In my past, I learned that skipping any steps or taking shortcuts only made me have to repeat the whole cleaning job over. Even with a single carb. And dont forget to dip that carb body in some real carb cleaner ( berryman B-9 ) or similar. Those passages linking the pilot jet to its fuel flow get plugged, and you cant open them without dipping the body for 20-30 minutes . Dont dip for more than that though, or you can create a whole different set of problems.
rinse body out with tap water, and blow dry with compressed air. Replace any rubber or gaskets with new ones if any damage or wear is detected.
This is my timeless fail-proof carb guide.
Yea you can get away with shortcuts and half-*** work sometimes ...
But when you do this for a living, every day, you learn , you just learn not to skip steps...because by the time youve had to re-do a 4 cylinder carb job for the 5th time, you learn these things. ( pilot jets hate you, and they are out to get you )

 

When I installed Dynojet stage 1 jet kit I had a hell of a time getting the rubber gasket/diaphragm to seat properly when I put the carbs back together. I suspected the slide on the carb for the front cylinder wasn't moving so after taking it apart and putting it back together about 3 times I finally got it right. Not sure if it was a dirty jet or an error on the part of the installer (me) but it runs great now.