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Front Brake Master Cylinder issue

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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:32 PM
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Front Brake Master Cylinder issue

Hello, I am new to the forum here. I have a 98 Superhawk and I have got everything dialed in but I have a question about the front brake lever tension. I have replaced the brakes with new pads and bleed the system correctly but I seem to have about an inch of play from when I pull the front brake lever to where I feel pressure and the bike brakes come in. When driving the motorcycle it brakes great but it has to much play in my opinion before the lever engages. Is that normal or does it sound like the front brake master cylinder needs a re-build. Again, when it engages it holds pressure and stops well, it just has to much play before lever brake pressure comes in.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:36 PM
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Have you tried adjusting the dial on the lever? If it's holding pressure then you shouldn't be having a problem with the master.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:38 PM
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How does it feel, is it mushy at all or is it firm, does it fade at all?
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:40 PM
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I have the adjustment all the way out but no matter how it is adjusted it seems to have an initial inch of movement.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:41 PM
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it is firm at the point of engagement and will hold pressure like normal.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:42 PM
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So it doesn't feel any different no matter what you do with the dial?
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:44 PM
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not really… I would say that the lever does get more play when I adjust the dial out but it still feels like the same ratio of play till lever pressure
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:47 PM
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do you suggest a specific method for the superhawk for bleeding the brakes. Maybe I should run through all the steps again. But if you have any tricks for this model I would love to know in case I missed somthing. Thanks.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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I'm probably not the best person to answer your questions regarding the oem setup because I haven't felt it in about 5 or 6 years but as far as bleeding is concerned, this is how I've always bled any motorcycle brake system.

Start at the master, pull lever in, release banjo bolt, no pumping, close bolt, repeat. After all air is out move to left caliper, the one furthest from master, repeat same method. Move to right caliper, repeat. Of course making sure throughout not to let it run out of fluid. If it still feels like air in the system, zip tie the lever all the way down with the cap off and tilt steering to the left and leave over night. This will force any trapped air out through master.

Or your lever is worn out, does it shake around a lot?

Last edited by superhawk22; Feb 24, 2012 at 07:05 PM.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:02 PM
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Thank you very much for that. I will do exactly what you suggest as it sounds much more thorough than my method. I also need to check the lever as I did not check that enough. I will be sure to post back with my results. Thank you again.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Hey no problem, hope it works for you.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:06 PM
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Oh I probably should've been more specific on caliper bleeding, use the bleeder screw on them, not the banjo bolt.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:13 PM
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So dont do anything on the master cylinder, only on the caliper?
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:18 PM
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no do the master as described but when you move on to the calipers use the bleeder screws not the banjo bolts that connect the lines to the calipers.

The only time you should have to use the banjo bolts on the calipers is if you have changed lines and even then it isn't usually needed.
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:22 PM
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Got it! I will take your suggestion and post back. Thanks man
Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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In my opinion, like I said it's hard to tell because I don't have oem anymore and I'm not there to feel yours, but if none of this helps it could be a couple of things. If you have stock rubber lines they could be getting worn out and expanding, or your lever is worn out. That's about all I can think of, if anyone else with oem set up wants to chime in by all means, please do.
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