APE CCT noise difference
#1
APE CCT noise difference
Hi all,
I've just had APE CCT's installed by a local shop and I've noticed a difference in sound from the oem set (engine through to exhaust).
It's pretty much a ticking sound that varies with the revs of the bike. I'm assuming this is due to the APE CCT's not having the rubber tip that the oem set has. I'm not that experienced when it comes to cam chain noise but I would have thought a loose chain would be fairly loud and easy to spot.
I'm just curious if this is normal with the APE set as I'm not confident in making adjustments knowing what can go wrong.
I've just had APE CCT's installed by a local shop and I've noticed a difference in sound from the oem set (engine through to exhaust).
It's pretty much a ticking sound that varies with the revs of the bike. I'm assuming this is due to the APE CCT's not having the rubber tip that the oem set has. I'm not that experienced when it comes to cam chain noise but I would have thought a loose chain would be fairly loud and easy to spot.
I'm just curious if this is normal with the APE set as I'm not confident in making adjustments knowing what can go wrong.
#3
The OEM CCTs I pulled from my bike don't have rubber tips. I doubt yours do either.
When I installed my APEs, the rear was fine finger tight. The front was clanking/rattling loud as hell.
Start the bike and tighten the manuals until the noise goes away.
When I installed my APEs, the rear was fine finger tight. The front was clanking/rattling loud as hell.
Start the bike and tighten the manuals until the noise goes away.
#5
With your fingers, not a wrench, right?
#6
Unless you've got REALLY strong fingers, you'll need a wrench!
For me, "finger tight" means turn with my fingers until it stops moving and my fingers start hurting. If it still sounds rattle can when you start it, you'll need a wrench to crank it down while it's running, and keep cranking 'till it stops making noise.
For me, "finger tight" means turn with my fingers until it stops moving and my fingers start hurting. If it still sounds rattle can when you start it, you'll need a wrench to crank it down while it's running, and keep cranking 'till it stops making noise.
#7
The term "finger tight" is just to give a reasonable starting point... Then of course you need a wrench, but not a long handle and all your might... A light touch should be enough...
#11
I did mine a couple of months ago and low and behold... rubber tips on the stock cct! I do not know if this was all models but i do not see why they would put them on some but not others. Either way, to the op, mine sounded exactly the same after the install. give it a quarter turn and see how it sounds. probably just need to be tightened.
#12
I went about a full turn in and a full turn out (to check loose and tight) with no change. Anyone experience the need to turn more than a full turn either way. I had a shop put them in so it's hard to say what their starting point was.
#13
I would sooner err on the side of less than more. Loosen the lock nut, back off the bolt a little, hand tighten till you feel that it stops, put a little torque on it with a small wrench to make sure it was up against when you finger tightened. You can back it off a couple times to get familiar with where it stops. If it turns nice and free, you can finger tighten, hold it against the stop with a wrench and secure lock nut. This is how i do mine and it's quiet. If you hear any tapping then tighten a hair with a small wrench, but i've never had to do this.
you can check adjustment periodically and/or if you detect a noise/ticking sound.
you can check adjustment periodically and/or if you detect a noise/ticking sound.
Last edited by nath981; 02-22-2010 at 05:00 AM.
#15
wow. that's weird. wonder what was wrong with the ones they took off. Good to get it right after all that ****, but would be interesting to know what was wrong with the ones they removed.
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10-11-2012 08:25 PM