APE CCT noise difference
Hi all,
I've just had APE CCT's installed by a local shop and I've noticed a difference in sound from the oem set (engine through to exhaust). It's pretty much a ticking sound that varies with the revs of the bike. I'm assuming this is due to the APE CCT's not having the rubber tip that the oem set has. I'm not that experienced when it comes to cam chain noise but I would have thought a loose chain would be fairly loud and easy to spot. I'm just curious if this is normal with the APE set as I'm not confident in making adjustments knowing what can go wrong. |
it may be needing to be tightened just a little. When I switched mine out the sounded exactly the same.
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The OEM CCTs I pulled from my bike don't have rubber tips. I doubt yours do either.
When I installed my APEs, the rear was fine finger tight. The front was clanking/rattling loud as hell. Start the bike and tighten the manuals until the noise goes away. |
Seems the rear was a little loose. Tightened to spec and it sounds normal again!
Thanks all. |
Originally Posted by RK1
(Post 251486)
The OEM CCTs I pulled from my bike don't have rubber tips. I doubt yours do either.
When I installed my APEs, the rear was fine finger tight. The front was clanking/rattling loud as hell. Start the bike and tighten the manuals until the noise goes away. |
Originally Posted by ranchomice
(Post 251776)
With your fingers, not a wrench, right?
For me, "finger tight" means turn with my fingers until it stops moving and my fingers start hurting. If it still sounds rattle can when you start it, you'll need a wrench to crank it down while it's running, and keep cranking 'till it stops making noise. |
The term "finger tight" is just to give a reasonable starting point... Then of course you need a wrench, but not a long handle and all your might... A light touch should be enough...
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When I had my APE's put in three years ago after a failure (rear) ,The shop I use unintentionally put the rear too tight.The bike would barely turn over.That was a shop ...go figure!!
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Is a full turn in either direction too much? I followed these instructions and when I got to a full turn with no change, I went back. How much turn does it take?
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I guess some specific questions never really get answered here huh. Not starting a new thread, it will just get jumped on as being redundant.
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Originally Posted by RK1
(Post 251486)
The OEM CCTs I pulled from my bike don't have rubber tips. I doubt yours do either.
When I installed my APEs, the rear was fine finger tight. The front was clanking/rattling loud as hell. Start the bike and tighten the manuals until the noise goes away. |
I went about a full turn in and a full turn out (to check loose and tight) with no change. Anyone experience the need to turn more than a full turn either way. I had a shop put them in so it's hard to say what their starting point was.
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I would sooner err on the side of less than more. Loosen the lock nut, back off the bolt a little, hand tighten till you feel that it stops, put a little torque on it with a small wrench to make sure it was up against when you finger tightened. You can back it off a couple times to get familiar with where it stops. If it turns nice and free, you can finger tighten, hold it against the stop with a wrench and secure lock nut. This is how i do mine and it's quiet. If you hear any tapping then tighten a hair with a small wrench, but i've never had to do this.
you can check adjustment periodically and/or if you detect a noise/ticking sound. |
Never got it right! Noise never changed at all. The shop put new stockers in and it purrs like a kitten.
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Originally Posted by ranchomice
(Post 256115)
Never got it right! Noise never changed at all. The shop put new stockers in and it purrs like a kitten.
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