khanawalt

I just got 'em today, ordered 'em Friday. Fast! I bought them on ebay for $45 each, in red. Now I've read a post here and there about installation/adjustment, but I'd like some more input.

The instructions say to remove the valve covers to adjust tension, but I'm not planning on doing that. I know I can find TDC (or close enough to it) with my whiz-bang plastic-tube-in-the-sparkplug-hole method. I figured I could get a hose that is a close fit in the spark plug hole, and as I turn the engine manually whenever I cease to be able to blow air into the cylinder, the valves are both closed. Then visual inspection with a bore light will put it close enough to TDC to keep cams from wanting to move.

I've read here that some adjust it finger-tight then back it off a half-turn, or 1 1/2 turns then lock it down. Another method is to tighten them until the noise stops (while idling, I assume) then back off the half-turn, etc.

Which method is recommended or has been performed by you guys? Thanks!

Ken

nuhawk

I have read the material available extensively and if there's one thing that I gleaned out of it is do NOT be in a rush. I think before I worried about the final adjustment I would make sure that everything is cool confirming that the repair was done properly. By rotating the engine by hand with the plugs out you can make sure nothing was overlooked. There are several stories in the archives of guys hitting the starter and destoying a set of valves because the chain jumped a cog or TDC on compression was not achieved (for some reason) or whatever. Otherwise I think your approach is fine. I just bought a little device that you stick in the plug wire to confirm firing of that cylinder. You don't have to spin the wheel fast to cause enough juice to light the sensor. Just another fail safe method to confirm TDC.

Randman

I think I will use the method were I take it in and let a pro take care of it, so if they screw it up, it's on them to fix...etc...etc.....But hey, that's me....

Thumper

Screw that, half the time the dealers friggin mesh something else up. Basically they don't treat your pride and joy with the same care you do.

I will do all my own work or it will not be done at all.

khanawalt

I do all my own work too, partly because I'm cheap and partly because I can. I understand why guys who don't fully understand how engines work would shy away from it though.

nuhawk

For now, I would trust the mechanics at my Honda shop. Most of them are grayer than I am and have been around bikes all their lives. But I'd hurry, all of them look like they're due for retirement any time soon. When that happens then I agree with Thumper - do it myself.

SuperHawkins

+1....if I know an experienced tech is going to be doing it, I would pay the money so it's done right the first time. But if some newer guy is going to be working on it, I'll do the damn thing myself....hell I AM a mechanic, just a car mechanic.....there are a lot of similarities, but a lot of differences as well!

Dave Wicks

Whoa baby....
Don't get stupid with this..There are some good threads that will walk you through the how too...I popped off the read cover...got TDC..then follow instructions for the front..do it right...blowing air in a plastic hose..what are you thinking??

khanawalt

TDC is all that's needed to eliminate the possibility that the cams will want to move when cam chain tension is released, since there's no valve-spring pressure on the cams when they're closed. The only time both valves are closed simultaneously is at or close to TDC. The only time you won't be able to blow air into the cylinder is when the valves are closed. You can see the piston through the spark plug hole. Makes sense to me.

Dave Wicks

Yea I thought about what you had said..see what you are thinking. I would encourage you to read the threads on this. Some horror stories of guys not getting tdc and then hearing a click when they removed the stock cct.s and realized the cam(s) had jumped on chain. When I pulled the rear cover and got tdc.. I couldn't believe how incredibly tight the chain was with stock cct.s..bike is low mileage. When new APE's intalled..set to spec...tried to measure deflection...the engine spun over ..by hand noticeably easier..really amazing..when all put back together...could feel a snappier engine response..
I lifted the front cover..did not remove... checked valve clearance on rear..all good..again very low mileage...

Great to see guys getting into their bikes..all part of the deal...Difference between a true "biker" and a "weekend wanna be"...that was harsh..

Good luck man
Dave

trinc

i removed my covers. the part i didn't like was the instruction "Tighten tensioner bolt with your hand or a tool until you feel it start to get a little snug ( then back it out 1/4 turn )"

a little snug ? now to me it's better to be too tight rather than too loose ( to start out with ) so the only real way to know the chain isn't going to jump off is to actual measure the chain tension.


maybe it's ok to remove the rear cover as it's easier to get to and adjust the APE to get a feel for how tight it needs to be then do the front without removing the cover.


i would rather ride than work on my bike, so i put a little thought into the things i'm going to do. i wouldn't install CCT's by themselves. i pulled the tank, carbs, covers & adjusted the valves ( i thinks it's best to measure chain tension before bumping the starter ! - removing the covers wasn't even a thought, pull them and check the valves ) cleaned the carbs, sync'd, cleaned & oiled the K&N, tossed in new plugs. now i'm good to go for the riding season.

shortcuts have away of taking a lot of time.

of course i forgot to measure the TPS ! but at least i only have to remove the right panel.


tim

Hawkrider

You have the stock CCT, right? Well, wind that puppy in and feel how much pressure it exerts as it pushes back out. Then realize that it doesn't push in, only out, and take into consideration that as things heat up and cool down inside the motor that it will be pretty friggin tight at some point (not sure if it's cold or hot). You want to adjust the APE less than that, i.e. reduce internal friction while still maintaining adequate tension.

khanawalt

I believe the chain is tightest when warm, which makes sense as engine parts would expand with heat, so it may be a good idea to adjust them after installation when cold, then warm it up, then re-adjust them.

Hawkrider

I dunno. There are so many things to take into consideration: length of the chain, thermal expansion rates of different materials that are different sizes, etc. I do know that APE recommends adjusting the CCT when warm, probably because that is where the bike will be most of the time.

njrider

Do you need to replace the valve cover gasket when the cover is removed or do they typically hold up ok?

SuperHawkins

I haven't seen what the cover gaskets are made of....if they're neoprene or something tough, which I'd suspect, they should be fine to reuse. Of course, it's ALWAYS "recommended" to replace gaskets on anything you remove, but chances are if you line it up properly and torque it correctly and evenly, you'll have no issues reusing unless it's ripped, torn, or has been previously overcompressed and it's out of "give".

L8RGYZ

The gaskets are rubber and designed to be re-used.

njrider

Sounds good. Dealer price is approx $30/gasket so reuse is a good thing!

nuhawk

Yipes! You're right those damn things are expensive. Service Honda is $21.07 each.

trinc

when removing the valve cover just be careful as you usually have part of the gasket sticking to the head and part to the cover. a little patience & they should be fine.

tim