1971allchaos

The soldier, above all other people, prays for peace, for he must suffer and bear the deepest wounds and scars of war.”

Douglas MacArthur quotes

I as many, have fought against the tyranny of the bullies in other countries, and Myself and others work for peace in their job (law enforcement ) every day-from the domestic violence, to road rage, etc.....
what does the two (the one before, and this thread) accomplish??

Partsman

Hey guys....Thanks for the response........Thanks for the plug Matt, but I am pretty thick skinned....As for the dampers they are made out of "Millathane® 76" I had them made 5 years ago. Millathane® 76 for this application is the closest you can can get to the factory Honda cush drive dampers without sacrificing durability.....The cost for the 30 sets of 5 dampers worked out to be about $15.00 a piece. Besides the color you couldn't tell the difference. As for me trying to sell them...I NO LONGER HAVE ANY TO SELL...I was not sure anyone else was making them. I was merely trying to help the fella that needed new ones.....If he PMs me I will send him factory Honda cush drive dampers for FREE.....I am not out out to make a killing as many of you who have bought parts from me or I have given parts to could agree!....As a matter of "FACT", I am selling the extra parts for my builds....I sell them way,way, way, less expensive than you can get alomost anywhere else. What I can't get rid of and what most don't need I just give it away if I have several of the same Item.....How can this be making money off of forum members.....8541Hawk's signature, until he changed it read "Stay away from partswhore..... I mean partsman".........8541Hawk , If you don't need anything from me or have do not have anythng nice to say, block me you **** end....I did not go on a rant as far as how many Hawks I have had, I was just letting you know I unlike someone such as yourself, I have informed knowledge on the subject...as for the rest of you, I will try and go the extra mile to help.....and that's all I have to say about that""""""""

nath981

that Millathane sounds like the bushing material i used on the sway bars on my 84' Autocar. They worked much better than the rubber. As far as using them for cush drive, seems like an improvement over rubber and myriads ahead of the straight drive some are using with aftermarket wheels. If you get any more, I'd be interested in trying them out.

Thumper

Nice response PMan, there are lots of self proclaimed experts on this forum. Most all of us like to tinker with bikes and of course ride them. Most like to share their experiences, just some have stronger opinions than others and may not be open to others input regardless if they may be wrong at times.

This forum has an awesome collection of knowledge on this long forgotten bike. Many members over the years have shared their Superhawk experiences to the benefit of all.

It amazes me how many owners gravitate to the bike.

Here Here to all Superhawk owners.................. we are a special breed

nath981

WTF........ we're in the Rant Section! Pissed off? Get it off your chest! Do it here. Seems totally appropriate to me.

As far as MacArthur's quote, that may apply to some, esp those who were drafted or volunteered because they believed in the cause, but there's a shitload who have other less honorable intentions.

8541Hawk

Oh I know all about the good old M1A or the M14 as we called the ones we had back in the day.

The M21 I use was basically a national match grade M1A with a refined trigger and a good optic mounted on it.....

8541Hawk

Yes it did as you came at me like a total asshat so you got some of it back..... and then you run and post this thread 'cuz the mean man was picking on you......

Though it is funny that you now say that I have no knowledge of this bike or how it works...... I guess I've been faking it around here for a while now....

It looks like Nath still has issues with me because of the gearing discussions.... oh well I do live by the motto of if you don't like me, you don't have to. It really is no big deal. I guess I pissed off Thumper also but not sure when or how but again..... oh well.

As for you going the extra mile to help people, well that might be so but all I have seen is you trying to sell ****.

As for myself, I've never taken time out of my day to try and help other members here or answered phone calls to help walk someone through a problem they may be having or even driven an hour and half out of my way to get someones bike to run when they were about to give up on it..... nope not me.....

So I tell you what, as you have informed knowledge on these bike, which I clearly don't have, I'll let you take the technical questions from now on.....

Partsman

I will have two Firestorms coming in tomorrow.....They look awesome!!! It has taken 26 days for shipping.....Euro parts.....yeaaaa.....!!!

Thumper

Sounds like pretty kewl stuff, but hey what would you know about something else on a Superhawk without the experts not knowing first.

Millable polyurethane rubber. Millathane from TSE Industries, Inc

Millathane 76 Excellent oil and abrasion resistance O-rings, gaskets, suction cups, vibration isolators, wheels

If you end up making more let me know, i might want to replace my old worn out stuff.

Randman

Children, children, children.... This thread is going nowhere fast... Keep it civil or it will go away....fast... Carry on..

Partsman

Get over it ...Do you not understand no one cares......8541Sparrow

8541Hawk

Well can I ask which density is used in these parts?

As there is quite a range....
Dense compounds can have hardnesses from approximately 25 to 99 Shore A (60 Shore D), tensile strengths over 5000 psi (35 MPa) and DIN abrasion values as low as 30-40 mm³ loss.

Now what are the stock parts?

Any testing to determine which compound to use or just a guess?

Why do the cush rubbers wear? Is it because they take the shock load?

Now if you use a harder compound. won't that load be transferred to someplace else?

Now will that transferred load cause damage? Will the seller cover the costs of repairs if something like a gear dog gets damaged?

So once again, I wouldn't recommend running them on the street.
A race bike, no problem as you don't shift from neutral very often.

So I guess because I have an opinion, I'm just a know it all or some kind of expert...... just like you.....

Once again I just stated some facts. When you shift the bike into gear and you get the jump or clunk, that is a major shock load. The rubbers are there to take up the shock load.

If you change them out for something denser or harder, yeah they may last longer but they will not be able to absorb the same amount of shock. Thereby it will be transferred to somewhere else in the drive line.

If you want to take the chance of running these fine but is it such a bad thing to point out that there can be a problem?

What engineering or testing was done to choose this material?

A lot of chances to take on a part that costs a whole $25 and lasts a good 20K miles or so.

8541Hawk

Seems you care enough to post a whole thread about it.....

Now try a little harder with the name calling....

Partsman

Research it a little more.....Sparrow.......If you read enough on the internet, you too will become enlightened........

Thumper

How would i know, i didn't make them. I don't recall saying you were an expert, but if you claim you are then you must be, right.

8541Hawk

So you are saying that I can research, on the net, what density you chose, what research and testing, if any you have done and if you would stand behind what you sell and would cover any damage caused by your parts.... ummm ok

Oh and for you immature little name calling, well I've been called a lot worse by a lot better people than you, so keep trying, and it's Mr. Sparrow to you.

autoteach

all I care about is durometer. What is the difference stock to your urethane ones?

8541Hawk

Well I apologize then as that is what it seemed you were implying.

So let me ask you this, are these questions out of line and don't you think the answers might be important?

Thumper

Sure they are valid question and maybe they might be important, but man you are like attacking other members if they even slightly disagree with your opinions. Same crap you did to me the other day with the filter discussion. You want facts from us, but you have no facts to produce either to back up all of your statements. I mean this is a site to share and discuss what each of us are doing to our bikes. But to me (an maybe i am wrong) it seems like you are sitting and waiting to pick a fight with whom ever the next poster is if its something you disagree with.

I know i am not always right, but neither are you. lots of guys over the years have done some pretty kewl stuff to these bikes and yes some of it is cutting edge. Does that mean its better than stock, maybe or maybe not sometimes.

Heck i run a CRF405R on the street with Excel wheels and no cush drive. It is all rigid, i run the crap out of it on the track jamming gear down and up without issue. Same bike runs in the woods with OEM wheels and no cush drives, no problems either. does that compare to the VTR, heck no, but that is not to say that a guy that comes up with something different may not be better than Honda. Comon they make these bikes for mass production and not cutting edge. I would be fair to say that nearly everyone on here has modied their bike in some form or fashion from stock. Some products may be backed by a company and some may be stuff like fork brace, mirror extrenders, Manual CCT's, Shock Shim, so on and so on. Does that mean that all mods have to be backed by a company, heck no. At least in my book they do not.

I don't want to continue to argue or fight about crap like this. I enjoy looking at what others are doing to their bikes and sometimes the stuff is damn kewl.

8541Hawk

Well I guess you are entitled to your opinion and if you actually look at my posts, yes I do provide the facts to back up what I am saying in the majority of them.

Sorry I don't have a stack of dyno charts for the carbs stuff..... I guess the other members that disagreed with you but didn't have the dyno charts are in the same boat as myself.

Also a 250 lbs bike that makes under 50hp doesn't really compare to a SuperHawk or the loads they each put on the drive line but that doesn't matter much either.

So sorry if I have offended anyone but after 14yrs of owning one of these bikes I have seen and tried most things that can be done.

Yeah I like to see new stuff but also try to point out the downfalls of some ideas...... I guess I'll just keep quite, like many of the older members here from now on as it really isn't worth it on this end either....

8541Hawk

Wonder if you will get an answer.....

Partsman

Well here it goes for those that want to know.......Autoteach if you are asking me what the Durometer is on this cush drive dampers, I can't tell you. What I can give you is the company name where we had them made. If you are so inclined give them a call and ask them. All I know is we sent them a cush drive damper, and asked duplicate it with the same characteristics, with a longer lifespan. Here is the name of the company.
(Esco Plastics Company - Houston, Texas 281-443-3710)

Although at some point this was explained to me I had to look the definition up so I could pass on accurate information. Here is the most commonly used definition for Durometer.

Durometer is a measure of hardness used for polymers. For a given polymer a higher durometer frequently indicates a stronger material and possibly other properties.

Most types of rubber and other polymers are specified using the Shore "A" or Shore "D" scales. In comparing hardness, be aware of the scale being used for the material in question.

The hardness of rubber compounds is measured by the Shore A durometer; the higher the durometer, the harder the compound. 70-durometer hardness should be used whenever possible as it offers the best combination of properties for most O-Rings applications.


Softer compounds stretch easier and seal better on rough surfaces. Harder compounds offer greater abrasion resistance and resistance to extrusion. Extrusion must always be considered where high pressure is used. The proper hardness may be selected from this chart by matching the fluid pressure with the maximum extrusion gap.

60 Shore A is softer than 70.

70 Shore A is the standard.

90 Shore A is very stiff.

I hope this has been helpful.

sheldonsl