ZX10 USD conversion
#62
Your'er a rich guy so it doesn't matter to you. I, on the other hand, have spent way more than I anticipated and I pretty sure that I'm not done throwing $$ at this swap. While I'm looking forward to having USD coolness, I just hope the results are worth the time and money.
#65
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Let me assure you guys that so far the swap is worth it.Totally different bike.
Twist it on through the corners now and it is definitely planted.
A better back shock is what is now required and hopefully as far as the suspension goes this bike is sorted.
No doubt when that is done there will be some other mod that is required. Not sure what it is but I know there will be one.
That's the beauty of this bike .
Was the USD worth it ?
The answer is a resounding YES !
Definitely worth the time and $ .
Cheaper than buying a new bike.
Cheers
Twist it on through the corners now and it is definitely planted.
A better back shock is what is now required and hopefully as far as the suspension goes this bike is sorted.
No doubt when that is done there will be some other mod that is required. Not sure what it is but I know there will be one.
That's the beauty of this bike .
Was the USD worth it ?
The answer is a resounding YES !
Definitely worth the time and $ .
Cheaper than buying a new bike.
Cheers
#66
Let me assure you guys that so far the swap is worth it.Totally different bike.
Twist it on through the corners now and it is definitely planted.
A better back shock is what is now required and hopefully as far as the suspension goes this bike is sorted.
No doubt when that is done there will be some other mod that is required. Not sure what it is but I know there will be one.
That's the beauty of this bike .
Was the USD worth it ?
The answer is a resounding YES !
Definitely worth the time and $ .
Cheaper than buying a new bike.
Cheers
Twist it on through the corners now and it is definitely planted.
A better back shock is what is now required and hopefully as far as the suspension goes this bike is sorted.
No doubt when that is done there will be some other mod that is required. Not sure what it is but I know there will be one.
That's the beauty of this bike .
Was the USD worth it ?
The answer is a resounding YES !
Definitely worth the time and $ .
Cheaper than buying a new bike.
Cheers
Cheaper that a new bike? By a big pile of money. I forget about that aspect of modding madness.
Next mod? The frame brace that Hawk is working on.
#67
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Same here,
There is a Harc brace on the japanese Jauce site.
Not wanting to put any pressure on Hawk, I would rather get one from him.
Looking forward to that as I should have a decent back shock by then.
There is a Harc brace on the japanese Jauce site.
Not wanting to put any pressure on Hawk, I would rather get one from him.
Looking forward to that as I should have a decent back shock by then.
Last edited by kenmoore; 04-09-2017 at 01:22 AM.
#68
Swapping in an USD front end is well worth the time and effort.
Also the reality of it is it is not that hard of a job to do.
I should hear about the braces soon..... it is his "busy" time of year. I did see the HARC brace the Jauce site. Looks like it would run you around $150 usd to get it out of Japan, so I do think I will beat that price.
Also the reality of it is it is not that hard of a job to do.
I should hear about the braces soon..... it is his "busy" time of year. I did see the HARC brace the Jauce site. Looks like it would run you around $150 usd to get it out of Japan, so I do think I will beat that price.
#69
The other thing you will notice.......lol is the difference between 296mm rotors and 320mm rotors.....
Doesn't sound like much but it is a world of difference.
I remember the test ride when I did my swap..... the first corner, just a little brake to set the front end and I had to get back on the throttle to just get to the corner because I had slowed down that much
Yeah it was at low speeds but take the time to relearn the brakes after the swap.....
Doesn't sound like much but it is a world of difference.
I remember the test ride when I did my swap..... the first corner, just a little brake to set the front end and I had to get back on the throttle to just get to the corner because I had slowed down that much
Yeah it was at low speeds but take the time to relearn the brakes after the swap.....
#70
The other thing you will notice.......lol is the difference between 296mm rotors and 320mm rotors.....
Doesn't sound like much but it is a world of difference.
I remember the test ride when I did my swap..... the first corner, just a little brake to set the front end and I had to get back on the throttle to just get to the corner because I had slowed down that much
Yeah it was at low speeds but take the time to relearn the brakes after the swap.....
Doesn't sound like much but it is a world of difference.
I remember the test ride when I did my swap..... the first corner, just a little brake to set the front end and I had to get back on the throttle to just get to the corner because I had slowed down that much
Yeah it was at low speeds but take the time to relearn the brakes after the swap.....
And trust me on this one: his brake set-up (yes, 298mm rotors, but Nissin monobloc calipers from Daytona 675 and Zcoo pads) is very, very good (better than many 320mm set-ups I can assure you)....
Last edited by mikstr; 04-09-2017 at 06:45 PM.
#71
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: South of Live Free or Die & North of Family Guy
Posts: 1,456
Swapping in an USD front end is well worth the time and effort.
Also the reality of it is it is not that hard of a job to do.
I should hear about the braces soon..... it is his "busy" time of year. I did see the HARC brace the Jauce site. Looks like it would run you around $150 usd to get it out of Japan, so I do think I will beat that price.
Also the reality of it is it is not that hard of a job to do.
I should hear about the braces soon..... it is his "busy" time of year. I did see the HARC brace the Jauce site. Looks like it would run you around $150 usd to get it out of Japan, so I do think I will beat that price.
Same here, the USD front end swap made a world of difference in an instant.
I still think it was the best mod I did to the VTR, the most notable immediate improvement you can get.
#72
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Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
I would have to agree with the statements from Mikstr and NHSH.
Unless you have experienced the difference it is hard to explain.
I would have been happy with the difference a USD conversion makes, but the brakes are an added bonus. I have thought about 310 or 320 rotors and after a good ride on Sunday came to the conclusion that the only advantage of bigger rotors is bragging rights.
In other words a waste of time ( I could live to regret that statement) I am very happy with the difference as at this point in time it has exceeded my expectations.
An expensive mod that lifts the VTR to a stage where it still performs admirably, holding many later and "Greater" bikes to account. ( The value of a VTR is subjective.)
As I have said on many previous occasions, the Storm is a very rewarding bike to own especially if you are prepared to work with it.
The old timers know what I mean!
Looking Mean !
Cheers !
Unless you have experienced the difference it is hard to explain.
I would have been happy with the difference a USD conversion makes, but the brakes are an added bonus. I have thought about 310 or 320 rotors and after a good ride on Sunday came to the conclusion that the only advantage of bigger rotors is bragging rights.
In other words a waste of time ( I could live to regret that statement) I am very happy with the difference as at this point in time it has exceeded my expectations.
An expensive mod that lifts the VTR to a stage where it still performs admirably, holding many later and "Greater" bikes to account. ( The value of a VTR is subjective.)
As I have said on many previous occasions, the Storm is a very rewarding bike to own especially if you are prepared to work with it.
The old timers know what I mean!
Looking Mean !
Cheers !
Last edited by kenmoore; 04-10-2017 at 04:40 AM.
#73
remember his set-up (2004-2005 ZX-10R forks) allows one to keep the stock rotors, and that is one of the beauties of this particular swap, for some (like me, allowed me to keep my 20mm Ti axle and PVM front wheel and stock-size Braketech rotors)
And trust me on this one: his brake set-up (yes, 298mm rotors, but Nissin monobloc calipers from Daytona 675 and Zcoo pads) is very, very good (better than many 320mm set-ups I can assure you)....
And trust me on this one: his brake set-up (yes, 298mm rotors, but Nissin monobloc calipers from Daytona 675 and Zcoo pads) is very, very good (better than many 320mm set-ups I can assure you)....
Then again I am a "Good brakes are the most important thing" guy..... Kind of like to have my stops controlled.
#74
I am happy someone else can now confirm what I have been saying for some time now about Zcoo pads. Best pads I have tried, and I have tried quite a few of the highly rated ones (Vesrah RJL and SRJL, HRC hard bite, Carbone Lorraine CL60), in addition to some others and Zcoo are tops (I would still be using them if I wasn't running Braketech CMC rotors - considering how expensive and rare these rotors are, I am using the mfr's recommended pads, Ferodo XRACs). Maybe others supposedly looking for top pads will now pay attention.
EX Series (Ceramic Sintered) for Sprint race
-The more you grip The braking lever, The more braking come in to force.
EX series provide the best controllability.
-Less damage to the disc rotor.
-Little effect at high temperature.
-Continuous stable braking force.
-Less deterioration by the repetition of heat and cold
-All weather
EX-C Series (Ceramic Sintered) for Endurance race and Wave disc rotor
-High durability against wave shaped disc rotors (twice more than EX series)
-Less damage to the disc rotor
-High braking force from the early stages of braking
-High controllability by easy braking release
-All weather
Which one are you using?
I "think" the N-004 pads are correct for my F41 calipers...can you confirm?
#75
sadly, I no longer have the information as said pads are now in New Zealand (I am now running Ferodo XRACs with my Braketech CMC rotors because that's what BT recommends and given the cost and rarity of the CMCs, I am not about to second-guess them) I seem to recall they only offered one type for the Daytona 675 calipers (Nissin monoblocs) and I think it was EX.... truly incredible pads
truth be told, the Zcoos pads on stainless rotors seemed to work as well, or even slightly better, than what I have now, but the weight savings from the CMC rotors (and Dymag carbon wheels) is just too hard to say no to... feels like riding a 125cc motocross bike (with a stonkin' motor of course, lol)....
truth be told, the Zcoos pads on stainless rotors seemed to work as well, or even slightly better, than what I have now, but the weight savings from the CMC rotors (and Dymag carbon wheels) is just too hard to say no to... feels like riding a 125cc motocross bike (with a stonkin' motor of course, lol)....
Last edited by mikstr; 04-10-2017 at 02:13 PM.
#76
Found this the other day after reading about the Zcoo pads.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-13176/page10/
Post 293
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-13176/page10/
Post 293
Last edited by xeris; 04-11-2017 at 06:47 AM. Reason: addition
#77
Found this the other day after reading about the Zcoo pads.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-13176/page10/
Post 293
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-13176/page10/
Post 293
#78
Seems Zcoo (a DID corp offshoot) makes different pad compounds
EX Series (Ceramic Sintered) for Sprint race
-The more you grip The braking lever, The more braking come in to force.
EX series provide the best controllability.
-Less damage to the disc rotor.
-Little effect at high temperature.
-Continuous stable braking force.
-Less deterioration by the repetition of heat and cold
-All weather
EX-C Series (Ceramic Sintered) for Endurance race and Wave disc rotor
-High durability against wave shaped disc rotors (twice more than EX series)
-Less damage to the disc rotor
-High braking force from the early stages of braking
-High controllability by easy braking release
-All weather
Which one are you using?
I "think" the N-004 pads are correct for my F41 calipers...can you confirm?
EX Series (Ceramic Sintered) for Sprint race
-The more you grip The braking lever, The more braking come in to force.
EX series provide the best controllability.
-Less damage to the disc rotor.
-Little effect at high temperature.
-Continuous stable braking force.
-Less deterioration by the repetition of heat and cold
-All weather
EX-C Series (Ceramic Sintered) for Endurance race and Wave disc rotor
-High durability against wave shaped disc rotors (twice more than EX series)
-Less damage to the disc rotor
-High braking force from the early stages of braking
-High controllability by easy braking release
-All weather
Which one are you using?
I "think" the N-004 pads are correct for my F41 calipers...can you confirm?
EX nomal rotors, EXC wave rotors, there should be not much difference, I have EX. NOO4 are correct, the same for my CBR954 calipers.
Link where I bought ...
http://m.ebay.com/itm/4-PASTIGLIE-AN...%257Ciid%253A6
Last edited by Stephan; 04-12-2017 at 09:55 PM.
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