Time for Stage I
#421
you can use the original sprockets as guides to get you started in right directions. Simply transfer marks over to new adjustable sprockets and use as reference starting points. I forget which stage 1 cams you are using but moriwaki are simply drop in items so you should be very close using stabndard marks, then timing to perfection.
#423
Hey Rick.
sorry to come late to the party.
the rear cylinder cycle is 270 degrees after the front cycle. It's probably easiest to work from the top-center position of each cylinder separately, by resetting the degree wheel. Just be sure that top-center on the compression stroke on the rear is 270 degrees after top-center-compression on the front. Get the front cams set, then do the rears.
You might be better off mounting your cams to the stock drive gears and checking timing. You will not need to adjust them, but you can go ahead and check, to go through the exercise.
I just got your PM about locknut tools. Still want to use them?
sorry to come late to the party.
the rear cylinder cycle is 270 degrees after the front cycle. It's probably easiest to work from the top-center position of each cylinder separately, by resetting the degree wheel. Just be sure that top-center on the compression stroke on the rear is 270 degrees after top-center-compression on the front. Get the front cams set, then do the rears.
You might be better off mounting your cams to the stock drive gears and checking timing. You will not need to adjust them, but you can go ahead and check, to go through the exercise.
I just got your PM about locknut tools. Still want to use them?
#424
Hey Rick.
sorry to come late to the party.
the rear cylinder cycle is 270 degrees after the front cycle. It's probably easiest to work from the top-center position of each cylinder separately, by resetting the degree wheel. Just be sure that top-center on the compression stroke on the rear is 270 degrees after top-center-compression on the front. Get the front cams set, then do the rears.
You might be better off mounting your cams to the stock drive gears and checking timing. You will not need to adjust them, but you can go ahead and check, to go through the exercise.
I just got your PM about locknut tools. Still want to use them?
sorry to come late to the party.
the rear cylinder cycle is 270 degrees after the front cycle. It's probably easiest to work from the top-center position of each cylinder separately, by resetting the degree wheel. Just be sure that top-center on the compression stroke on the rear is 270 degrees after top-center-compression on the front. Get the front cams set, then do the rears.
You might be better off mounting your cams to the stock drive gears and checking timing. You will not need to adjust them, but you can go ahead and check, to go through the exercise.
I just got your PM about locknut tools. Still want to use them?
#426
I pulled out the jets and here's what I found:
one of the mains was labeled "FACTORY" so I figured the PO have it rejetted with a Factory One kit for the Full Race Exhaust...
175F
182R
45slow
Question is should I get a new jet kit or just buy the new jets needed and drop them in?
one of the mains was labeled "FACTORY" so I figured the PO have it rejetted with a Factory One kit for the Full Race Exhaust...
175F
182R
45slow
Question is should I get a new jet kit or just buy the new jets needed and drop them in?
#427
I pulled out the jets and here's what I found:
one of the mains was labeled "FACTORY" so I figured the PO have it rejetted with a Factory One kit for the Full Race Exhaust...
175F
182R
45slow
Question is should I get a new jet kit or just buy the new jets needed and drop them in?
one of the mains was labeled "FACTORY" so I figured the PO have it rejetted with a Factory One kit for the Full Race Exhaust...
175F
182R
45slow
Question is should I get a new jet kit or just buy the new jets needed and drop them in?
#429
Bill, the full exhaust was already jetted for at 175 & 182 and I'm adding these:
moriw stg1 cams
oversized high comp pistons
ported heads
oversized valves
long billet velocity stacks
lightened flywheel
topless airbox w/K&N
Since I cut the top off the airbox and plan on running it with a K&N the jet size changes will likely be big.
Lazn, I'm planning on buying the initial jets from my dyno tuner so if different ones are needed all I'll have to do is swap them out...so what if they smell like gas they are still new...right?
moriw stg1 cams
oversized high comp pistons
ported heads
oversized valves
long billet velocity stacks
lightened flywheel
topless airbox w/K&N
Since I cut the top off the airbox and plan on running it with a K&N the jet size changes will likely be big.
Lazn, I'm planning on buying the initial jets from my dyno tuner so if different ones are needed all I'll have to do is swap them out...so what if they smell like gas they are still new...right?
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 05-25-2010 at 09:06 AM. Reason: forgot cams:) & spell
#430
When it comes time to tune your bike, you might want to have a uncut airbox top just in case to compare against your topless one..
see: http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/air_box_lid.htm (page 3 specifically)
Now he did not do the cams or pistons, so you may be on the right track, but I'd have a stock top on hand to dyno test just to see how that works.
see: http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/air_box_lid.htm (page 3 specifically)
Now he did not do the cams or pistons, so you may be on the right track, but I'd have a stock top on hand to dyno test just to see how that works.
#431
When it comes time to tune your bike, you might want to have a uncut airbox top just in case to compare against your topless one..
see: http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/air_box_lid.htm (page 3 specifically)
Now he did not do the cams or pistons, so you may be on the right track, but I'd have a stock top on hand to dyno test just to see how that works.
see: http://www.ablett.jp/bikes/vtr/air_box_lid.htm (page 3 specifically)
Now he did not do the cams or pistons, so you may be on the right track, but I'd have a stock top on hand to dyno test just to see how that works.
#432
I was going to say the same thing as Lazn. actually I was going to say might want to tune it first with stock airbox, then go on to er, maybe stage II airbox.
I had a very hard time tuning mine including taking it to a near local tuner of national reputation for v-twins. could not get it right until mike here hooked me up with some HRC carb needles. I could not imagine having the airbox mods on top of that. Not being negative it just seems like one of those aspects of these bikes that have been tried over and over and a LOT of beating their heads against a wall trying. So you might want a little gratification of your great engine work first - enjoy it then tackle the second phase. but good luck in either case.
I had a very hard time tuning mine including taking it to a near local tuner of national reputation for v-twins. could not get it right until mike here hooked me up with some HRC carb needles. I could not imagine having the airbox mods on top of that. Not being negative it just seems like one of those aspects of these bikes that have been tried over and over and a LOT of beating their heads against a wall trying. So you might want a little gratification of your great engine work first - enjoy it then tackle the second phase. but good luck in either case.
#433
I was going to say the same thing as Lazn. actually I was going to say might want to tune it first with stock airbox, then go on to er, maybe stage II airbox.
I had a very hard time tuning mine including taking it to a near local tuner of national reputation for v-twins. could not get it right until mike here hooked me up with some HRC carb needles. I could not imagine having the airbox mods on top of that. Not being negative it just seems like one of those aspects of these bikes that have been tried over and over and a LOT of beating their heads against a wall trying. So you might want a little gratification of your great engine work first - enjoy it then tackle the second phase. but good luck in either case.
I had a very hard time tuning mine including taking it to a near local tuner of national reputation for v-twins. could not get it right until mike here hooked me up with some HRC carb needles. I could not imagine having the airbox mods on top of that. Not being negative it just seems like one of those aspects of these bikes that have been tried over and over and a LOT of beating their heads against a wall trying. So you might want a little gratification of your great engine work first - enjoy it then tackle the second phase. but good luck in either case.
Also, in case anybody wants to order actual Keihin jets individually you can go to jetsrus.com and get them:
slow jets are# N424-21
Mains are# N424-36
#434
Lots of progress this weekend! The top end is buttoned up and the stator cover is on. I need to order a new water pump washer and primary drive friction spring: http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...7/Group/CLUTCH
Surprisingly, I didn't find a primary drive friction spring on either motor. Is this thing not needed or am I missing something here?
Surprisingly, I didn't find a primary drive friction spring on either motor. Is this thing not needed or am I missing something here?
#436
Lots of progress this weekend! The top end is buttoned up and the stator cover is on. I need to order a new water pump washer and primary drive friction spring: http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/...7/Group/CLUTCH
Surprisingly, I didn't find a primary drive friction spring on either motor. Is this thing not needed or am I missing something here?
Surprisingly, I didn't find a primary drive friction spring on either motor. Is this thing not needed or am I missing something here?
#439
#441
#442
I took the rear section off yesterday. Next I'll drop the stock motor out and put in the fresh STG1 motor. However, I'm still waiting on some parts to come in. This monster should be breathing fire soon!