Time for Stage I
04-14-2010, 04:11 AM
#361
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I think the whole idea behind only using these bolts once is they streach when torqued so I think 22+ is needed to get that result
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 04-14-2010 at 06:20 AM. Reason: spell
04-15-2010, 09:26 AM
#367
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Next I need to plastigauge the Morwi STG 1 cams and then wait to get in the new chains from Ron Ayers...
In the meantime, the most important thing is my keg run dry so gotta figure out what to order next for the kegarator
04-15-2010, 12:54 PM
#369
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04-15-2010, 12:56 PM
#370
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Anybody know anything about these FERODO brake pads? Are they any good or should I stick with Galfer or EBC?
Thanks,
RC
Anybody know anything about these FERODO brake pads? Are they any good or should I stick with Galfer or EBC?
Thanks,
RC
04-15-2010, 06:04 PM
#371
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Coming together very nicely.
I am not sure if you give a stuff about looks like some of us do, or whether you are just about performance, but now would be a good time to paint your engine a nice colour.
I am not sure if you give a stuff about looks like some of us do, or whether you are just about performance, but now would be a good time to paint your engine a nice colour.
04-16-2010, 05:58 AM
#374
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04-16-2010, 06:01 AM
#375
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Plastigauged the 2 Morwi cams on the front head last night and they are perfect! I'm gonna need a shim kit to dial in the valve clearances though. Oh well, I guess having a box of 3 of each size laying around wont be a bad thing.
04-19-2010, 03:23 PM
#377
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Yeah, Baby!
I had a bracket to hold the engine in my engine stand, that the mag base would stick to.
you might be able to mount a steel plate to the valve cover mounting holes. Tape it to prevent scoring the head.
The engine only turns one way, when the cam chains are installed, so keep that in mind.
record the angle at .040 lift on the leading and trailing edge of the cams, based upon 0 degrees at top-center. The lobe center is halfway between. Sounds obvious, but take notes and write everything down. It takes a while to get the procedure. If it gets late and you get tired, come back to it when you are fresh - and less hop-induced.
Valve clearances should be close to spec. before doing the cam timing.
Use red loctite on the cam sprocket bolts.
Also, if you are having a hard time holding the engine still, bolt it into the chassis. It makes a pretty good workstand.
I get to ride mine on Monday!!!
I had a bracket to hold the engine in my engine stand, that the mag base would stick to.
you might be able to mount a steel plate to the valve cover mounting holes. Tape it to prevent scoring the head.
The engine only turns one way, when the cam chains are installed, so keep that in mind.
record the angle at .040 lift on the leading and trailing edge of the cams, based upon 0 degrees at top-center. The lobe center is halfway between. Sounds obvious, but take notes and write everything down. It takes a while to get the procedure. If it gets late and you get tired, come back to it when you are fresh - and less hop-induced.
Valve clearances should be close to spec. before doing the cam timing.
Use red loctite on the cam sprocket bolts.
Also, if you are having a hard time holding the engine still, bolt it into the chassis. It makes a pretty good workstand.
I get to ride mine on Monday!!!
Last edited by RCVTR; 04-19-2010 at 03:25 PM.
04-19-2010, 03:36 PM
#378
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and pull the cam chain up tight from the crank to the front and over the sprocket.
I had trouble finding a mounting spot for the magnetic dial indicator and also trying to solidly mount the degree wheel so there is not shifting. Just be sure your measurements all repeat very reliably - its easy to get the dial gauge point to move slightly off the bucket and give you a slightly different reading - or have the free play in the system get missed. So get everything super solid an then be sure it repeats. then like rand says, do it, think about it and be sure its what you thought.
I had trouble finding a mounting spot for the magnetic dial indicator and also trying to solidly mount the degree wheel so there is not shifting. Just be sure your measurements all repeat very reliably - its easy to get the dial gauge point to move slightly off the bucket and give you a slightly different reading - or have the free play in the system get missed. So get everything super solid an then be sure it repeats. then like rand says, do it, think about it and be sure its what you thought.
04-19-2010, 04:39 PM
#379
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Thanks Bill & Rand!
I got a set of Hotcams shims and set the valve clearences on the front head this evenin before the hops took over
next I'll do the rear IN & EX valve clearences...man it's easy when you have a pile of shims!
Rand, have fun at the track and take care of my next bike okay?
I got a set of Hotcams shims and set the valve clearences on the front head this evenin before the hops took over
next I'll do the rear IN & EX valve clearences...man it's easy when you have a pile of shims!
Rand, have fun at the track and take care of my next bike okay?
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 04-19-2010 at 05:52 PM. Reason: spell
04-21-2010, 05:36 AM
#383
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Last night I zeroed in the rear valve set and now I have about 100 shims left over...LOL!
Here's what worked (from memory which ain't real good
FR IN = 1.70 shims for both valves
FR EX = 1.20 for both
RR IN = 1.60 shims for both
RR EX = 1.25 for both
The biggest difference in lobes between stock & Morwi STG 1 cams seems to be on the EX cams...
Here's what worked (from memory which ain't real good
FR IN = 1.70 shims for both valves
FR EX = 1.20 for both
RR IN = 1.60 shims for both
RR EX = 1.25 for both
The biggest difference in lobes between stock & Morwi STG 1 cams seems to be on the EX cams...
04-21-2010, 09:48 AM
#386
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Last night I zeroed in the rear valve set and now I have about 100 shims left over...LOL!
Here's what worked (from memory which ain't real good
FR IN = 1.70 shims for both valves
FR EX = 1.20 for both
RR IN = 1.60 shims for both
RR EX = 1.25 for both
The biggest difference in lobes between stock & Morwi STG 1 cams seems to be on the EX cams...
Here's what worked (from memory which ain't real good
FR IN = 1.70 shims for both valves
FR EX = 1.20 for both
RR IN = 1.60 shims for both
RR EX = 1.25 for both
The biggest difference in lobes between stock & Morwi STG 1 cams seems to be on the EX cams...
Do you mean you are setting the clearances to zero? are you doing that for the cam timing? it shouldn't be necessary if you are using the lobe center method
04-21-2010, 09:52 AM
#387
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Valve clearances are all set to spec and I will be using the lobe centers assuming I can find them
04-21-2010, 09:59 AM
#388
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LOL. it was your term 'zero'd in the rear valve set" that threw me off. and with non-symmetrical cams, and some old timers, they used to set zero lash to do the cam timing. So just double checking you weren't wasting your time.
good luck. Show a pic of how you mount up that timing wheel when you get it on will you. I still don't like my set up. Can you mount it on the opposite side of where you rotate the crank? would reduce the tendency to move the wheel as you rotate
good luck. Show a pic of how you mount up that timing wheel when you get it on will you. I still don't like my set up. Can you mount it on the opposite side of where you rotate the crank? would reduce the tendency to move the wheel as you rotate
04-21-2010, 10:06 AM
#389
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LOL. it was your term 'zero'd in the rear valve set" that threw me off. and with non-symmetrical cams, and some old timers, they used to set zero lash to do the cam timing. So just double checking you weren't wasting your time.
good luck. Show a pic of how you mount up that timing wheel when you get it on will you. I still don't like my set up. Can you mount it on the opposite side of where you rotate the crank? would reduce the tendency to move the wheel as you rotate
good luck. Show a pic of how you mount up that timing wheel when you get it on will you. I still don't like my set up. Can you mount it on the opposite side of where you rotate the crank? would reduce the tendency to move the wheel as you rotate
04-21-2010, 05:34 PM
#390
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I mounted the degree wheel on the left side, before installing the flywheel....
I just used a piece of wire wrapped around one of the mounting bolts for the side cover as a pointer.
I just used a piece of wire wrapped around one of the mounting bolts for the side cover as a pointer.
