Time for Stage I
02-09-2009, 12:54 PM
#121
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Bob Hayashida built the engine for that bike. He is a close friend of Dan Kyle. I'm sure there was some corroboration.
It has Carillo rods and lightened crank to handle the extended RPM. Full-race everywhere. He spared no expense (well, some expense. It was built to last a couple of seasons).
The transmisssion is an HRC close-ratio gearbox. I'm not sure if it is the same as the RC45. sounds reasonable.
He once told me, when my bike was all finished "Yours is the nicest VTR I've seen. Mine was the fastest, yours is the nicest". He took pictures of it to send to his friends at Moriwaki.
It has Carillo rods and lightened crank to handle the extended RPM. Full-race everywhere. He spared no expense (well, some expense. It was built to last a couple of seasons).
The transmisssion is an HRC close-ratio gearbox. I'm not sure if it is the same as the RC45. sounds reasonable.
He once told me, when my bike was all finished "Yours is the nicest VTR I've seen. Mine was the fastest, yours is the nicest". He took pictures of it to send to his friends at Moriwaki.
02-09-2009, 07:27 PM
#122
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Cams, Velo Stacks & Bore Gage came in today. Who can explain to me how to properly use the bore gauge? I've got a 50mm anvil holder on it with a 2mm washer and an anvil marked 3 that's 15mm long and the bore readings are around 55-56mm
02-10-2009, 03:51 AM
#123
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02-10-2009, 05:27 AM
#125
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New Cams & Stacks came from Bill Finnegan, Hpower Queensland, Australia
Roger Ditchfield also has Mori STG1 Cams at Revolution Racing in UK, http://www.revolutionuk.co.uk/
Roger Ditchfield also has Mori STG1 Cams at Revolution Racing in UK, http://www.revolutionuk.co.uk/
02-10-2009, 07:14 AM
#126
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use the bore gage to make 4 measurements. 2 at the top of the cylinder 90°apart from eachother (think of a clock 6-12 and 3-9)
make the others at the bottom.
You should be able to calculate how much material has to be removed to get straight round cylinders.
make the others at the bottom.
You should be able to calculate how much material has to be removed to get straight round cylinders.
02-10-2009, 07:19 AM
#127
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02-10-2009, 08:28 AM
#128
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You need to remember that it is just a gauge. It does not make measurements directly.
It should be somewhere in the middle of travel, when it is square in the bore. That will tell you that you are in range to make a measurement.
The most accurate way to set it up is with a precision 98mm ring gauge, but you don't have one of those. The next best way is to set a calibrated micrometer to 98 mm (3.8583 in.). Hold the micrometer gently in a vice, padded with a rag, so it's stable (but not distorted!) Place the pins of the bore gauge between the anvils of the micrometer and sweep it around until you find the minimum and set "0" on the dial fo the gauge. Recheck several times until "0" repeats and is the true minimum, within .0001" (1 graduation on the gauge face.
Take your bore measurements several times to be sure they repeat. The bore measurement is 98 mm + or - the deviation from "0" on the gauge.
Bore measurements should be taken under stable room temperature conditions. Not in the cold garage. The error would be small, but not insignificant.
It should be somewhere in the middle of travel, when it is square in the bore. That will tell you that you are in range to make a measurement.
The most accurate way to set it up is with a precision 98mm ring gauge, but you don't have one of those. The next best way is to set a calibrated micrometer to 98 mm (3.8583 in.). Hold the micrometer gently in a vice, padded with a rag, so it's stable (but not distorted!) Place the pins of the bore gauge between the anvils of the micrometer and sweep it around until you find the minimum and set "0" on the dial fo the gauge. Recheck several times until "0" repeats and is the true minimum, within .0001" (1 graduation on the gauge face.
Take your bore measurements several times to be sure they repeat. The bore measurement is 98 mm + or - the deviation from "0" on the gauge.
Bore measurements should be taken under stable room temperature conditions. Not in the cold garage. The error would be small, but not insignificant.
02-10-2009, 08:32 AM
#129
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You need to remember that it is just a gauge. It does not make measurements directly.
It should be somewhere in the middle of travel, when it is square in the bore. That will tell you that you are in range to make a measurement.
The most accurate way to set it up is with a precision 98mm ring gauge, but you don't have one of those. The next best way is to set a calibrated micrometer to 98 mm (3.8583 in.). Hold the micrometer gently in a vice, padded with a rag, so it's stable (but not distorted!) Place the pins of the bore gauge between the anvils of the micrometer and sweep it around until you find the minimum and set "0" on the dial fo the gauge. Recheck several times until "0" repeats and is the true minimum, within .0001" (1 graduation on the gauge face.
Take your bore measurements several times to be sure they repeat. The bore measurement is 98 mm + or - the deviation from "0" on the gauge.
Bore measurements should be taken under stable room temperature conditions. Not in the cold garage. The error would be small, but not insignificant.
It should be somewhere in the middle of travel, when it is square in the bore. That will tell you that you are in range to make a measurement.
The most accurate way to set it up is with a precision 98mm ring gauge, but you don't have one of those. The next best way is to set a calibrated micrometer to 98 mm (3.8583 in.). Hold the micrometer gently in a vice, padded with a rag, so it's stable (but not distorted!) Place the pins of the bore gauge between the anvils of the micrometer and sweep it around until you find the minimum and set "0" on the dial fo the gauge. Recheck several times until "0" repeats and is the true minimum, within .0001" (1 graduation on the gauge face.
Take your bore measurements several times to be sure they repeat. The bore measurement is 98 mm + or - the deviation from "0" on the gauge.
Bore measurements should be taken under stable room temperature conditions. Not in the cold garage. The error would be small, but not insignificant.
Will let you know how they measure up ASAP!
RC
02-10-2009, 09:17 AM
#130
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What am I saying? You're in Florida. They don't have cold garages in Florida. they make up for it with love bugs that eat through the clear coat on your paint, and gators annd all that other swampy nastiness
02-10-2009, 09:25 AM
#131
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RC
02-10-2009, 10:02 AM
#132
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02-10-2009, 10:05 AM
#133
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02-10-2009, 04:51 PM
#134
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Falicon Adjustable Cam Sprokets came in today and they are better then I'd hoped for! They are marked better than the stockers
Can anyone tell me if I can advance my timing here with these cam sprokets by 2 degrees or if I'll need and electronic or mechanical advancer
Can anyone tell me if I can advance my timing here with these cam sprokets by 2 degrees or if I'll need and electronic or mechanical advancer
02-11-2009, 04:08 AM
#135
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Items like the timing advancer that Factory Pro makes adjusts the ignition timing by faking out the ECU into thinking that the crank is in a different position, therefore skewing the timing in that direction. This can help build a little more midrange at the expense of a hp or so on the top end.
Adjusting the cam timing tweaks when the valves open/close. This can also shift the peak power up or down depending on which way you go (advance or retard directions). Usually cam timing changes require some dyno tuning to achieve the desired results (what are your desired results?). For the vast majority of us, setting the cams to the spec-sheet is best. Adjustable sprockets are needed because the stock sprockets do not always, if ever, get the cams in exactly the correct spot.
02-11-2009, 05:49 AM
#136
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After consulting the techs at Yoshimura prior to havign my Stage 1 cams installed, I decided to have the exhaust cams advanced by two degrees, thereby bringing the power down slightly in the rpm range (I never spin the engine to ridiculous levels anyhow and was looking for added mid-range moreso than top-end).
02-11-2009, 05:50 AM
#137
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Maybe you are confusing cam timing with ignition timing. They are two totally different things.
Items like the timing advancer that Factory Pro makes adjusts the ignition timing by faking out the ECU into thinking that the crank is in a different position, therefore skewing the timing in that direction. This can help build a little more midrange at the expense of a hp or so on the top end.
Adjusting the cam timing tweaks when the valves open/close. This can also shift the peak power up or down depending on which way you go (advance or retard directions). Usually cam timing changes require some dyno tuning to achieve the desired results (what are your desired results?). For the vast majority of us, setting the cams to the spec-sheet is best. Adjustable sprockets are needed because the stock sprockets do not always, if ever, get the cams in exactly the correct spot.
Items like the timing advancer that Factory Pro makes adjusts the ignition timing by faking out the ECU into thinking that the crank is in a different position, therefore skewing the timing in that direction. This can help build a little more midrange at the expense of a hp or so on the top end.
Adjusting the cam timing tweaks when the valves open/close. This can also shift the peak power up or down depending on which way you go (advance or retard directions). Usually cam timing changes require some dyno tuning to achieve the desired results (what are your desired results?). For the vast majority of us, setting the cams to the spec-sheet is best. Adjustable sprockets are needed because the stock sprockets do not always, if ever, get the cams in exactly the correct spot.
RC
02-11-2009, 05:51 AM
#138
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After consulting the techs at Yoshimura prior to havign my Stage 1 cams installed, I decided to have the exhaust cams advanced by two degrees, thereby bringing the power down slightly in the rpm range (I never spin the engine to ridiculous levels anyhow and was looking for added mid-range moreso than top-end).
02-11-2009, 06:27 AM
#139
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I discussed the Factory Pro ignition advancer with Roger Ditchfield (at Revolution Racign in the UK) and he recommended against it (futher to extensive testing on ignition curves during their development of the racing VTR they built years ago). You can always e-mail him for details.
02-11-2009, 06:30 AM
#140
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I discussed the Factory Pro ignition advancer with Roger Ditchfield (at Revolution Racign in the UK) and he recommended against it (futher to extensive testing on ignition curves during their development of the racing VTR they built years ago). You can always e-mail him for details.
Cheers,
RC
02-12-2009, 02:54 PM
#141
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I discussed the Factory Pro ignition advancer with Roger Ditchfield (at Revolution Racign in the UK) and he recommended against it (futher to extensive testing on ignition curves during their development of the racing VTR they built years ago). You can always e-mail him for details.
So, he said stock was the best then? That would be a first, I've always heard good things about the Factory Pro advancer. I'm running one (4° I think) and it seems to work well for me.
After consulting the techs at Yoshimura prior to havign my Stage 1 cams installed, I decided to have the exhaust cams advanced by two degrees, thereby bringing the power down slightly in the rpm range (I never spin the engine to ridiculous levels anyhow and was looking for added mid-range moreso than top-end).
Do you have a contact name and number at Yosh? I will be setting up my Yosh cams soon and the all-Japanese instructions are not very helpful. It would be nice to have a short chat with someone who speaks "American".
02-12-2009, 07:00 PM
#142
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HI Jamie,
I forget the exact details of what Roger said about ignition timing (he would gladly elaborate if you write him though) but the jist was that a 4 degree advance across the board was NOT the way to go.
In terms of the tech at Yosh, I forget the name now but I just called their office in Southern Cal and asked to speak to a tech for support.
Hope that helps...
I forget the exact details of what Roger said about ignition timing (he would gladly elaborate if you write him though) but the jist was that a 4 degree advance across the board was NOT the way to go.
In terms of the tech at Yosh, I forget the name now but I just called their office in Southern Cal and asked to speak to a tech for support.
Hope that helps...
02-13-2009, 05:03 AM
#144
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Jamie, It sounds like Tduc has an electronic ign advance which I hear is the best cuz it can be selected to start at the rpm point it's needed and doesn't have to be 4 degrees, while the mechanical ign adv is across the entire range which may cause the motor to run hotter than necessary...
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 02-13-2009 at 05:04 AM. Reason: spell
