SOOO went to replace air filter and.....
12-09-2011, 03:52 PM
#91
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,869
I guess there could always be some additional tweaking, but I am still satisfied all these years and miles later. This run was after mods and dialing in setup by feel and seat of pants. Best I recall from way back then is was a hot day, only run I ever made on this bike.
12-09-2011, 09:21 PM
#92
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
I did mine so many years ago and posted the following for reference on the old RLZ site back then. I dug around the garage this week and finally ran across notes from 10 years ago setup (wow how time passes) All settings and work were done by me at 500 ft/sea level without Dyno availability. Carb sync performed after each adjustment.
This is how I got to the final settings at the bottom.
5/18/01 (as received from Honda)
Stock From Honda: Stock Filter/ Stock Exhaust / SMOG System intact / Stock Advancer
-Mains Jet Front 175 Rear 178
-Pilot Jet Front 45 Rear 45
-Air Screw (Turns Out) Front 3 1/16 Rear 2 1/2
-Stock needle
5/18/01
Installed Jet Kit, Exhaust, Filter, Ignition Advancer and removed SMOG stuff all at same time:
(Factory Pro TI 1.1 Jet, K&N Filter/ Jardine Oval High Mount Exhaust / Removed SMOG and installed Block plates / Factory Pro 4 degree Advancer)
-Mains Jet Front 180 Rear 182
- Pilot Jet Front 50 Rear 50
- Air Screw (Turns Out) Front 3 Rear 3
- FP TI needle (slot from top) Front 3 Rear 3
5/24/01
First adjustment after installing all parts listed on 5/18/01
Problem noted prior to this adjustment:
-When weather at 85 degree day
-Slight surging at cruise speed
-Idle fluctuates at times
-When weather at 60 degree day
-Stumble from off Idle with throttle
-Surge more noticeable
-Surges less when choke applied slightly
-Idle worse than 85 degree temp. idle.
Corrective Action taken for this adjustment:
- Removed Air Box Baffle Support
- Raised Needle 1 notch to 4 from top on both FP TI Needles
- Air Screw changed to 2.5 turns out for Front and Rear
6/30/01
Second and last adjustments made to the bike
Problem noted prior to this adjustment:
-Rough Idle
-Early detonation at pull off speed (knock)
Corrective Action taken for this adjustment:
-Changed Pilot Jets to 48 (Front and Rear)
-Adjusted Air Screws (turns out) Front 3 Rear 2
-Installed new Rear Emulsion Tube into the front carb. (Now same Emulsion tubes in front and rear, which is not stock setting)
Final Settings:
-Mains Jet Front 180 Rear 182
- Pilot Jet Front 48 Rear 48
- Air Screw (Turns Out) Front 3 Rear 2
- FP TI needle (slot from top) Front 4 Rear 4
-Rear Emulsion Tube installed in front carb to match samer as the rear one.
That is how she was set on the dyno run below and how she has been ever since. Bike consistently gets 33 to 35 mpg with RLOD coming on at 100 miles with stock gearing and i hardly ever use 5th or 6th gears. Rarely need choke to start, no surge, no stumble, idles perfect in all weather. I ride 400 to 5,000 ft/ sea level with this setup in 40 to 100 degree days with some high humidty days in the summer.
Last edited by Thumper; 12-09-2011 at 10:01 PM.
12-10-2011, 05:23 AM
#93
Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sudbury ON
Posts: 155
Thumper's torque curves certainly look nice and flat much like my stock set up. Although your curve isn't very flat, the numbers are significantly higher i.e. HP 106.1 & Torque 70.1. When I compare the Torq values between the bikes at various RPM's, your bike starts pulling very hard starting at 5500 and never drops below Thumpers torque before 9000 RPM. Any explanation as to how that would be? Those numbers aren't terrible for a track bike. I never let RPM's down below 6000 and normally shift by 8000-8500 RPM.
12-10-2011, 01:10 PM
#94
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Saint Paul, MN
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Thumper's torque curves certainly look nice and flat much like my stock set up. Although your curve isn't very flat, the numbers are significantly higher i.e. HP 106.1 & Torque 70.1. When I compare the Torq values between the bikes at various RPM's, your bike starts pulling very hard starting at 5500 and never drops below Thumpers torque before 9000 RPM. Any explanation as to how that would be? Those numbers aren't terrible for a track bike. I never let RPM's down below 6000 and normally shift by 8000-8500 RPM.
12-10-2011, 02:27 PM
#95
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Sudbury ON
Posts: 155
I didn't intend to get into this debate for the simple fact I do not have a recent dynorun of my set up with Yosh pipes, Dj stage 1 and K&N. Seat of the pants tells me it runs very good but I'll admit my seat of the pants may be wrong. I did a Dynorun when I had the Yosh and stage only installed and it had 101 HP and 67.8 ft-lb torque with a very flat torque curve similar to Thumpers. It would be interesting to see what the difference is now!
12-13-2011, 02:37 PM
#96
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Pompano Beach, Fl.
Posts: 273
... Feel free to drop by and show me how to do it, I'll supply coffee and pastires...
Hhhhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm-----Let me get this straight; All I have to do to get some good coffee (assumption) , some dainty pastries, and maybe some fabulous crepes is find my way to Sweden and argue a little about intakes. Wow!! What could be simpler? What a deal.....I think I'll prepare for it by driving over to Ikea's, order up the same cuisine and my wife loves to argue, you know to help me prepare. Wheels are turning...
Hhhhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm-----Let me get this straight; All I have to do to get some good coffee (assumption) , some dainty pastries, and maybe some fabulous crepes is find my way to Sweden and argue a little about intakes. Wow!! What could be simpler? What a deal.....I think I'll prepare for it by driving over to Ikea's, order up the same cuisine and my wife loves to argue, you know to help me prepare. Wheels are turning...
12-13-2011, 03:00 PM
#97
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Skurup, Sweden
Posts: 6,109
... Feel free to drop by and show me how to do it, I'll supply coffee and pastires...
Hhhhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm-----Let me get this straight; All I have to do to get some good coffee (assumption) , some dainty pastries, and maybe some fabulous crepes is find my way to Sweden and argue a little about intakes. Wow!! What could be simpler? What a deal.....I think I'll prepare for it by driving over to Ikea's, order up the same cuisine and my wife loves to argue, you know to help me prepare. Wheels are turning...
Hhhhhhhhhhhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm-----Let me get this straight; All I have to do to get some good coffee (assumption) , some dainty pastries, and maybe some fabulous crepes is find my way to Sweden and argue a little about intakes. Wow!! What could be simpler? What a deal.....I think I'll prepare for it by driving over to Ikea's, order up the same cuisine and my wife loves to argue, you know to help me prepare. Wheels are turning...
12-14-2011, 10:45 AM
#98
Banned
MotoGP
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lake View Terrace, CA
Posts: 5,942
While this curve does look pretty good it does have a few problems, at least in my eyes.
If you look at the 3-5K range, by the A\F graph you start out lean @3K and then goes rich before leaning back out.
IMHO this is cause by a undersized pilot jet and then the slides (mainly the front one, once again IMHO) opening too soon and also bouncing around a bit at those RPMs.
The slides bouncing is also shown by the torque curve. See all the lumps in the curve at the same RPM range?
While some, if not most, would not notice this while riding, others can.
This type of curve is typical with DynoJet kits for the VTR and the reason why I don't like them.
I prefer the larger pilots and to modify the slides to eliminate the rich spot and to control the slide bounce to smooth out the curve on the low end.
If you look at the 3-5K range, by the A\F graph you start out lean @3K and then goes rich before leaning back out.
IMHO this is cause by a undersized pilot jet and then the slides (mainly the front one, once again IMHO) opening too soon and also bouncing around a bit at those RPMs.
The slides bouncing is also shown by the torque curve. See all the lumps in the curve at the same RPM range?
While some, if not most, would not notice this while riding, others can.
This type of curve is typical with DynoJet kits for the VTR and the reason why I don't like them.
I prefer the larger pilots and to modify the slides to eliminate the rich spot and to control the slide bounce to smooth out the curve on the low end.
11-10-2012, 09:44 PM
#99
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,015
While this curve does look pretty good it does have a few problems, at least in my eyes.
If you look at the 3-5K range, by the A\F graph you start out lean @3K and then goes rich before leaning back out.
IMHO this is cause by a undersized pilot jet and then the slides (mainly the front one, once again IMHO) opening too soon and also bouncing around a bit at those RPMs.
The slides bouncing is also shown by the torque curve. See all the lumps in the curve at the same RPM range?
While some, if not most, would not notice this while riding, others can.
This type of curve is typical with DynoJet kits for the VTR and the reason why I don't like them.
I prefer the larger pilots and to modify the slides to eliminate the rich spot and to control the slide bounce to smooth out the curve on the low end.
If you look at the 3-5K range, by the A\F graph you start out lean @3K and then goes rich before leaning back out.
IMHO this is cause by a undersized pilot jet and then the slides (mainly the front one, once again IMHO) opening too soon and also bouncing around a bit at those RPMs.
The slides bouncing is also shown by the torque curve. See all the lumps in the curve at the same RPM range?
While some, if not most, would not notice this while riding, others can.
This type of curve is typical with DynoJet kits for the VTR and the reason why I don't like them.
I prefer the larger pilots and to modify the slides to eliminate the rich spot and to control the slide bounce to smooth out the curve on the low end.
08-03-2013, 08:47 PM
#100
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 1
I installed the k&n air filter in my 01 superhawk and then had it rejetted but it still back fires a little and will sometimes cut off when I'm riding hard and pull the clutch in to coast. I was just wondering if you could let me know what kind of tuning you did to make your bike run so well with the k&n filter? I think they said they rejetted mine with a 175 and a 178 jets.
08-04-2013, 12:20 AM
#101
Connie Demico does toad?
Superstock
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Lakeway
Posts: 383
Apparently this bike doesn't care for the K&N filter so much. Lots of history there. A nice oem style filter is often a good match for 175/178 main jets like I use. Read 8541Hawks thread on carb tuning, it works. Welcome to the fold.
08-04-2013, 06:11 AM
#103
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Please post up the DYNO sheets when the bike was tuned... HP, TQ and AF charts.
What are you running for jetting?
Tell us more about your "custom springs"
08-23-2013, 04:02 PM
#104
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: California
Posts: 133
It had a K&N and DJ Kit installed from Previous Owner. It was rich and ran like ****. I went on another STOCK VTR and was like..."ohh (in a bad way)"
I still have my K&N, I still have the DJ Kit....I will never re-install it. I am back to OEM filter Carb now is = 48# 175 + 178
If you can, I would love to see a DYNO print out of your bike. If your VTR truly runs well with the K&N the information would be INVALUABLE to all K&N owners riding VTR's. (We will also need your setup information + anything else you feel relates)
I reverted back to the Hawk8541 (no longer on the forum) and absolutely love my VTR now.
(I have a K&N in my Mustang, it works fine.....)
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