re-packing exhaust?
re-packing exhaust?
Hey folks, I have two brothers slip on the hawk and they seem to be turning abit dark (outside of cans), does tht mean i need to re-pack them? Or how does one know when to re-pack the cans? any info/advice appreciated.
Thanks,
Tesh
Picture (the TB cans.)>>>>>>
Thanks,
Tesh
Picture (the TB cans.)>>>>>>
They will get louder as time goes on. It kinda would take hearing freshly-packed TBR's to guage when you might want to think about doing a repack. I always think exhausts sound great after a repack, especially grumblers like your cans. Still plenty throaty and mean.
Yoshimura (I have twin Yosh CF Pipes) recomends between 7-10K miles. So I will be looking into getting new packing to do my soon.
Sort of a highjack...
Anyone know where to get and what type of packing to get?
Sort of a highjack...
Anyone know where to get and what type of packing to get?
Well, i'm in canada and i ordered the re-packing kit for the TBR cans which was aroun $30 and had a friend pack it for me, the mechanic quoted about 2 hrs of labour o re-pack...i'm sure its cheaper in the states!
good luck guys!
good luck guys!
Muffler alternative packing, materials & procedure
Anyone know where to get and what type of packing to get?[/QUOTE]
I have the 2bros AL s/o, and this is what I do..
Buy #30 drill bit & 16 (2 packs of 9) .125 X .188~.25" Large flange SS pop rivets.
18" X 3'-0 SS wool & .032" SS safety wire
18" X 4'-0 Unifrax Durafrax-S Durablanket 6#/CF X 1/2" thk ceramic insulation
Remove cans.
Drill out rivets at inlet end & remove perforated core; clean core & inside can with kerosene (allow to thoroughly dry!).
Remove old fg packing but save SS wool (new not req'd if 2Bross SS wool in good condition).
Wrap 2 diameters w/SS wool & safety wire wrap tight full length on core.
Wrap 2+ diameters ceramic blanket & safety wire wrap tight full length (or use masking tape tightly, it will burn off) on core.
Patiently slide wrapped core into can and re-pop rivet.
Clean springs and fill w/HT silicone sealant & allow sealant to cure.
Reinstall cans & safety wire springs.
Total Time req'd: about 2 hours
I have the 2bros AL s/o, and this is what I do..
Buy #30 drill bit & 16 (2 packs of 9) .125 X .188~.25" Large flange SS pop rivets.
18" X 3'-0 SS wool & .032" SS safety wire
18" X 4'-0 Unifrax Durafrax-S Durablanket 6#/CF X 1/2" thk ceramic insulation
Remove cans.
Drill out rivets at inlet end & remove perforated core; clean core & inside can with kerosene (allow to thoroughly dry!).
Remove old fg packing but save SS wool (new not req'd if 2Bross SS wool in good condition).
Wrap 2 diameters w/SS wool & safety wire wrap tight full length on core.
Wrap 2+ diameters ceramic blanket & safety wire wrap tight full length (or use masking tape tightly, it will burn off) on core.
Patiently slide wrapped core into can and re-pop rivet.
Clean springs and fill w/HT silicone sealant & allow sealant to cure.
Reinstall cans & safety wire springs.
Total Time req'd: about 2 hours
Anyone know where to get and what type of packing to get?
I have the 2bros AL s/o, and this is what I do..
Buy #30 drill bit & 16 (2 packs of 9) .125 X .188~.25" Large flange SS pop rivets.
18" X 3'-0 SS wool & .032" SS safety wire
18" X 4'-0 Unifrax Durafrax-S Durablanket 6#/CF X 1/2" thk ceramic insulation
Remove cans.
Drill out rivets at inlet end & remove perforated core; clean core & inside can with kerosene (allow to thoroughly dry!).
Remove old fg packing but save SS wool (new not req'd if 2Bross SS wool in good condition).
Wrap 2 diameters w/SS wool & safety wire wrap tight full length on core.
Wrap 2+ diameters ceramic blanket & safety wire wrap tight full length (or use masking tape tightly, it will burn off) on core.
Patiently slide wrapped core into can and re-pop rivet.
Clean springs and fill w/HT silicone sealant & allow sealant to cure.
Reinstall cans & safety wire springs.
Total Time req'd: about 2 hours
I have the 2bros AL s/o, and this is what I do..
Buy #30 drill bit & 16 (2 packs of 9) .125 X .188~.25" Large flange SS pop rivets.
18" X 3'-0 SS wool & .032" SS safety wire
18" X 4'-0 Unifrax Durafrax-S Durablanket 6#/CF X 1/2" thk ceramic insulation
Remove cans.
Drill out rivets at inlet end & remove perforated core; clean core & inside can with kerosene (allow to thoroughly dry!).
Remove old fg packing but save SS wool (new not req'd if 2Bross SS wool in good condition).
Wrap 2 diameters w/SS wool & safety wire wrap tight full length on core.
Wrap 2+ diameters ceramic blanket & safety wire wrap tight full length (or use masking tape tightly, it will burn off) on core.
Patiently slide wrapped core into can and re-pop rivet.
Clean springs and fill w/HT silicone sealant & allow sealant to cure.
Reinstall cans & safety wire springs.
Total Time req'd: about 2 hours
Where to get the Unifrax?
I have been searching for hours and I can't figure out where to get the Unifrax in the specifications you gave. (Unifrax Durablanket S #6 in 18" X 4' X 1/2 inch) Do you have a site/store you could recomend?
Thanks again,
Thanks again,
Unifrax
574-654-7145 New carlisle, IN to find a local vendor.
I have plenty of the stuff. I guess I could ship enough to you at cost if you PM me. Or you could get the 2Bros packing.
Here's an interesting read from someone who used a ceramic fiber type material to repack and exhaust. He did not have good results though. He noted that it all blew out on him. May or maynot be helpful.
http://mclements.net/Mike/mrc-VHRepack.html
http://mclements.net/Mike/mrc-VHRepack.html
Unifrax
Here's an interesting read from someone who used a ceramic fiber type material to repack and exhaust. He did not have good results though. He noted that it all blew out on him. May or maynot be helpful.
http://mclements.net/Mike/mrc-VHRepack.html
http://mclements.net/Mike/mrc-VHRepack.html
It also would seem that skokievtr's method of packing pipes would be better anyhow - combining steel wool with refractory blanket enables the exhaust to be dampened, but partially blocks the fibers from blowing out.
or so it would seem
or so it would seem
Somewhat a silly question to wake up this thread with but I am trying to find a place which sells stainless steel safety wire (also known as mechanics wire?). I would rather not order online for something so basic but it's getting close to that point. I'm in the Worcester, MA area. Also just as pertinent, is there any other wire that works for repacking a muffler? (I have seen copper wire and galvenized steel).
I already tried the following places;
Home depot - doesn't sell it
Lowes - doesn't sell it
C.A.P. (Consumer Auto Parts) - just stopped stocking it perhaps 1 week ago...
Motorsports International (local motorcycle shop) - out of stock
True Value - doesn't sell it
Advance Auto Parts - doesn't sell it
AutoZone - doesn't sell it
Will try;
Red Streak Motorsports, another local motorcycle shop.
Aviation shops, if I can find any
Race shops... there are probably some around...
Thanks for any help... My roomate recommends I steal harley mufflers to pass inspection...
I already tried the following places;
Home depot - doesn't sell it
Lowes - doesn't sell it
C.A.P. (Consumer Auto Parts) - just stopped stocking it perhaps 1 week ago...
Motorsports International (local motorcycle shop) - out of stock
True Value - doesn't sell it
Advance Auto Parts - doesn't sell it
AutoZone - doesn't sell it
Will try;
Red Streak Motorsports, another local motorcycle shop.
Aviation shops, if I can find any
Race shops... there are probably some around...
Thanks for any help... My roomate recommends I steal harley mufflers to pass inspection...
I repacked my TBR's with the factory repack kit. Very simple. After I got them apart, I wrapped them with the provided packing, put some masking taped around it to hold it in place and slid it back into place. Placed some Permatex Ultra Black Gasket Maker recommended sealant between can and end of can.
Replaced rivets and remounted. Factory kit comes with packing, rivets and drill bit. Already had a rivet gun. I would be surprised if it took over an hour.
Replaced rivets and remounted. Factory kit comes with packing, rivets and drill bit. Already had a rivet gun. I would be surprised if it took over an hour.
Bolton, did you try Wagners? They are in Worcester and they race, so you know they`ll have safety wire. Or mail order it from 1-888fastlap, LP, Chaparell, Motosport, Dennis Kirk or about 7 billion other places.
and the internet returns!
Thanks for the advice, I will have to try Wagner next time I need something like that. I had to pass inspection so I was in a little bit of a rush... and since my gf was moving, I had no time. I hate paying mechanics to do work on anything I own.
Thanks for the advice, I will have to try Wagner next time I need something like that. I had to pass inspection so I was in a little bit of a rush... and since my gf was moving, I had no time. I hate paying mechanics to do work on anything I own.
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