Problem Idling
#1
Problem Idling
After a recent carb rejetting, FP 1.0, and subsequent carb sync. I have noticed that the SH is not idling correctly. I set the idle at 1200 rpm per the FSM while the bike was at operating temperature.
When the bike is cold, it has a tendency to idle below 1K and sometimes 500 rpm. This is after using the choke for 30-60 seconds. I marked all lines that I removed from the fuel tank, so I know the lines are hooked up correctly.
The bike idled fine before the rejet, is this an inherent problem with the SH or have I done something incorrect when putting the bike back together?
The other mod I did was putting a "T" in the vacuum line to make it easier to connect the carb sync tool.
When the bike is cold, it has a tendency to idle below 1K and sometimes 500 rpm. This is after using the choke for 30-60 seconds. I marked all lines that I removed from the fuel tank, so I know the lines are hooked up correctly.
The bike idled fine before the rejet, is this an inherent problem with the SH or have I done something incorrect when putting the bike back together?
The other mod I did was putting a "T" in the vacuum line to make it easier to connect the carb sync tool.
#3
You have a problem somewhere. Mine has always idled fine no matter which jet kit was in it. I also have the "t" in the petcock line and as it's a Ca model I also have the nipple fitting on the front cyl. with a line and a straight fitting with a plug. I'm not sure what the problem is but it shouldn't idle like that.
#4
After a recent carb rejetting, FP 1.0, and subsequent carb sync. I have noticed that the SH is not idling correctly. I set the idle at 1200 rpm per the FSM while the bike was at operating temperature.
When the bike is cold, it has a tendency to idle below 1K and sometimes 500 rpm. This is after using the choke for 30-60 seconds. I marked all lines that I removed from the fuel tank, so I know the lines are hooked up correctly.
The bike idled fine before the rejet, is this an inherent problem with the SH or have I done something incorrect when putting the bike back together?
The other mod I did was putting a "T" in the vacuum line to make it easier to connect the carb sync tool.
When the bike is cold, it has a tendency to idle below 1K and sometimes 500 rpm. This is after using the choke for 30-60 seconds. I marked all lines that I removed from the fuel tank, so I know the lines are hooked up correctly.
The bike idled fine before the rejet, is this an inherent problem with the SH or have I done something incorrect when putting the bike back together?
The other mod I did was putting a "T" in the vacuum line to make it easier to connect the carb sync tool.
#5
Whats strange is that once the engine is warm, it idles fine, its just the time between cold and normal operating temp it is finicky.
Anybody have any ideas were to start trouble shooting?
8541Hawk can you post some pictures of your front cylinder setup?
Anybody have any ideas were to start trouble shooting?
8541Hawk can you post some pictures of your front cylinder setup?
#6
I'll try to get out there and take one but it's pretty simple. On CA bikes there is a fitting in the front cyl. just like to one you put in to sync the carbs but it runs some of the smog crap. So it would be the same as if you put in the fitting (which is just a nipple instead of a plug) and then put a piece of vacuum line around 6" long on to it with a straight fitting on the end with a rubber plug. With this set up I can hook up my gauges for the carbs in around 15 sec.
#7
Thumper, I installed the #50's with the jet kit.........the stockers are #45. Did you have to order the #48 from FP? Also what type of pipes are you running? I have the Yoshi RS-3's
8541Hawk, where did you purchase the fitting for the front cylinder?
Thanks.
8541Hawk, where did you purchase the fitting for the front cylinder?
Thanks.
#8
It might be your warm-up procedure. I stand over my bike throughout the whole process. I may work with my gear in the meantime but I am listening to the bike. The bike will load up easily if your not on top of your choke position. This would cause the low rpm loaping at 500-800. Nor do I want to let me r's go above 2k - I do that by gradually coming out of the choke and it can take three or four minutes. I hold my hand over the can outputs and when the cylinder temps start coming up - I start moving to the gate. After I'm out and locked up the gauge is at the first bar and it's ready to rock. You might be a little rich but as we cool into winter this thing is likely to hawl some ***!
#9
Jardine High mounts, 4 degree advance, K&N filter and rear emulsion tube (Honda Dealer again) in the front carb.
I know i am on the 4th slot from top and i forget what mains i have in. It has been at least 5 years since i fine tuned mine and she has been perfect ever since.
The 50's caused my idle to fluctuate, one traffic light it would idle at 1200 the next light it might idle at 900 and then back to 1200 or even up to 1400.
I got sick of it and changed back to 48. I did research then and found out that the original FP TI kits actually came with 48 pilots and somewhere along the line they changed to 50's.
#10
I usually stand by the bike or on the bike as I am getting my gear on. Once I hear the motor starting to load up, I begin to ease the choke in. I do this pre and post carb rejet.
Tomorrow I guess I will pull the tank and airbox off and check to make sure I did not over look something. If this doesn't fix it, I guess I will order two #48 and install those to see if it corrects the problem.
Tomorrow I guess I will pull the tank and airbox off and check to make sure I did not over look something. If this doesn't fix it, I guess I will order two #48 and install those to see if it corrects the problem.
#11
#12
I usually stand by the bike or on the bike as I am getting my gear on. Once I hear the motor starting to load up, I begin to ease the choke in. I do this pre and post carb rejet.
Tomorrow I guess I will pull the tank and airbox off and check to make sure I did not over look something. If this doesn't fix it, I guess I will order two #48 and install those to see if it corrects the problem.
Tomorrow I guess I will pull the tank and airbox off and check to make sure I did not over look something. If this doesn't fix it, I guess I will order two #48 and install those to see if it corrects the problem.
I never warm it up before riding, bu ti also don't rip thru the gears and RPM until i have gone a mile or 2.
#13
Funny, i start mine use choke if it needs it and ride off as soon as she is running. I usually cruise out of my neighborhood and let her warm up as it is nearlya mile to get out of the neighborhood.
I never warm it up before riding, bu ti also don't rip thru the gears and RPM until i have gone a mile or 2.
I never warm it up before riding, bu ti also don't rip thru the gears and RPM until i have gone a mile or 2.
#14
I usually let it warm up while I'm getting ready, and I turn the choke off when it gets just shy of 2k rpm. if I let it idle right then and there, it idles at 900rpm since its still not completely up to normal temp. but close enough. by the time I roll up to the first light, its idling at 1200 steady as a rock.
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06-03-2008 08:18 AM