newb carb setup
03-21-2013, 02:48 PM
#1
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Squid
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 7
newb carb setup
Hi guys. First post ever. 98 Hawk...So...I got my bike last fall and its my first do I was more concerned with riding than fixing. So I'm getting around to fixin it up. OK to the point. I've got my carbs off and here's the setup. 175/178 mains 50 primaries. Its got the needles with clips. Both are on second slot from top with one washer. D&D slip ons. Stock air filter. I've flipped the pair plates and still get a lot of popping while decelerating. Idle may be at 1000 or 2200 varies each time I stop. I found the rear choke broke st the carb also. Bike seems to run smooth thru the RPMs but idk. Anything I can do to this to make it run any better or idle smoother before it goes back together.
03-21-2013, 03:01 PM
#2
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Location: Lake View Terrace, CA
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Put #48 pilots in it.
Add a washer to the rear needle.
Modify the front slide per my set up thread.
Check the slides for extra lift holes and also for short slide springs. These indicate a DJ kit and you would have to use a different set up.
Add a washer to the rear needle.
Modify the front slide per my set up thread.
Check the slides for extra lift holes and also for short slide springs. These indicate a DJ kit and you would have to use a different set up.
03-21-2013, 07:22 PM
#5
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Well you don't NEED anything but I would plug one of the holes on the front slide (if you use the stock stacks) and get a #4 washer to add one shim to the rear needle.
04-10-2013, 06:01 PM
#6
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Squid
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I did exactly what u said. Pros...starts up a lot easier. Idles smoother. I can get the idle down to about 800 if I like. Maybe my imagination but I think it runs smoother in top rpms. Now the bad...from a stop I get no throttle sometimes. U really have to rev it and slip the clutch to even get moving. Only sometimes though. And my bike now has a bad flat spot at 3-3500 rpms. Tons of very loud popping on decel.pair system is gone and capped off. Even on the highway I have the play with the throttle cuz it kinda bogs down and has absolutely no throttle responce until u rev it up. Idk what to do.
04-11-2013, 12:26 AM
#9
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Superstock
Join Date: May 2012
Location: UK
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Sounds to me like it's got a Factory Pro kit hence the 50 pilots and standard mains. There's one way to know for sure and that is to count the slots in the needles. DJ have 6 slots and FP have 5.
(:-})
(:-})
06-26-2013, 02:07 AM
#12
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Squid
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Picking up on posts about pilot jet size..
Just wanted to ask 8541Hawk and Cybercarl.. you mentioned #48 Pilots for this build. Im looking at a very similar build on my 05 storm with a FP 1.1Ti kit.
That kit come with #50 pilots.. Any reason why the #48's are better suited?
Also how does one go about buying them with the difference in the emulsion tubes?
For reference, set-up is:
05' Storm. TPS @ 490, PAIR Mod, Remus cans minus restrictors, Exhaust mod at 2-into-1 section (ground away the 'overlap' where it goes back into 2), OEM airfilter but blade removed on leading edge of filter element, Snorkel removed.
When I rebuild the card for the 1.1Ti I intend on removing the manifold restrictions that seem to be on both cylinders!? I only heard it being on one... guess mine is extra special.. either way it runs like a 650V2 currently
. smooth but asthmatic at best.Any advice greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Blackbetty; 06-26-2013 at 02:11 AM. Reason: missed referencing another member in reply
06-26-2013, 05:19 AM
#13
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The emulsion tubes are separate parts, so they do not affect the purchase of the (main) jets. The pilot jets do not even interface with them so it wouldn't matter anyway.
I think that Mike suggested it because a high idle that creeps down to the set idle is an indication of running too rich at the bottom. Changing from 50's to 48 will help this. Adding a washer raises the needle very slightly which will give a little fuel back a little sooner. All you do is try to find a shop in your area or online that will sell you Kehnin Series 21 pilot jets size 48.
I'm barely familiar with a stock pipe setup. Running 2-into-1 I have no idea. Asthmatic seems like a good description of taking half the pipes off, though
I think that Mike suggested it because a high idle that creeps down to the set idle is an indication of running too rich at the bottom. Changing from 50's to 48 will help this. Adding a washer raises the needle very slightly which will give a little fuel back a little sooner. All you do is try to find a shop in your area or online that will sell you Kehnin Series 21 pilot jets size 48.
I'm barely familiar with a stock pipe setup. Running 2-into-1 I have no idea. Asthmatic seems like a good description of taking half the pipes off, though
06-26-2013, 08:56 AM
#14
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Superstock
Join Date: May 2012
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Posts: 397
I believe that FP supply 50's to go with a full system ie. race header pipes as well as cans. But there are no set sizes as such and every bikes requirement will be slightly different. You may require one of three size pilot jets (45, 48, or 50) 48 being the more popular size. The size you use is dependent on what size mains and needle heights you have. The fuel mixture screws control mainly the amount of flow through the pilot jet but does taper off through the needles and mains too. When tuning CV carbs you should always ideally start at the top (mains) and work your way down.
CV Carb Tuning Procedures
Just by adding aftermarket race cans you will find that the standard mains do a pretty good job but the midrange and bottom end suffers slightly, hence the reason for shimming the needles and using a slightly bigger pilot jet.
Obviously with the FP kit there is no reason to shim the needles as they are adjustable. They also have a totally different needle profile to the standard needles so there maybe a requirement to up a size or two on the mains.
(:-})
CV Carb Tuning Procedures
Just by adding aftermarket race cans you will find that the standard mains do a pretty good job but the midrange and bottom end suffers slightly, hence the reason for shimming the needles and using a slightly bigger pilot jet.
Obviously with the FP kit there is no reason to shim the needles as they are adjustable. They also have a totally different needle profile to the standard needles so there maybe a requirement to up a size or two on the mains.
(:-})
06-26-2013, 09:39 AM
#15
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