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Ignitech problems/questions

Old 11-02-2011, 05:17 AM
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Ignitech problems/questions

To Markus, Rama, and anyone else who has an Ignitech ECU....

I have a TCIP4 unit and have been trying to get it to work with my VTR for almost two weeks now. Despite trying different maps (directly from Jan at Ignitech), I can`t even get the bike to start. FWIW, I know it`s not the bke itself as it fires up readily with the stock ECU.

Anyone have a TCIP4 (NOT the standard "Honda TCI Sparker" as it doesn`t use the TPS as a mapping parameter) and gotten the bike to run? I am quickly running out of hope/patience for this set-up....

I should note that I have replaced the stock coils with stick coils from a 2007 CBR600RR if that matters (although I mentioned this to Jan and got no response....)

Thanks in advance
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:37 AM
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How's your battery? Mine didn't loke the fact that my bike had been sitting for a few weeks prior to installing the unit. After 2 days of screwing around I pit the battery on a tender overnight. Came back in the morning, after changing nothing else, and it started right up.

Everything seems to be working as it should. Map is already tweeked and I am currently in the process of creating my DIY quick shifter and shift light with it.

If you bought the adapter for the harness, maybe check that they pinned it correctly.I don't know what it is like becaude I soldered everyrhing in myself. I've made many, many wiring harnesses. It's part of what I do at work. Not for bikes but for heavy equipment and pneumatic machines. Mistakes are easy to make. You should be able to compare the wiring diagram in the manual to the one from ignitech.
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Old 11-02-2011, 05:56 AM
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Battery is fine; it`s a 12-cell Li-ion Mavyrik battery new from last year. It could likely start up an M1 tank.....

As for the wiring, everything came pre-wired (including adaptor cable to fit between OEM harness and TCIP4). Not being an electronics guru (I wear a virtual dunse cap when it comes to electronics), I did source the wires in the both plugs (using service manual for OEM plug side) and sent them to Jan. One thing of note is that the OEM harness has 13 wires while the adaptor plug only uses 11. Again, this info (detailed with a schematic I made) was sent to Jan with no response.

I am getting close to jumping ship.....
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:20 AM
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One of the extra wires is for the temp sensor. The ignitech box doesn't care about temp. My other extra wire was for the sidestand, but that all depends on what optional features you use. I would be most suspect of the wire coming in from the pulse generator. I believe it is yellow on the bike and the new ECU.
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Old 11-02-2011, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mikstr View Post
Battery is fine; it`s a 12-cell Li-ion Mavyrik battery new from last year. It could likely start up an M1 tank.....

As for the wiring, everything came pre-wired (including adaptor cable to fit between OEM harness and TCIP4). Not being an electronics guru (I wear a virtual dunse cap when it comes to electronics), I did source the wires in the both plugs (using service manual for OEM plug side) and sent them to Jan. One thing of note is that the OEM harness has 13 wires while the adaptor plug only uses 11. Again, this info (detailed with a schematic I made) was sent to Jan with no response.

I am getting close to jumping ship.....
Mikstr, sorry... !

I haven't been answering emails, mostly since my hotmail/gmail combo decided to stick anything I wanted to read in the junk folder just to infuriate me... Not fully resolved yet, I'll PM a mail adress that saves us both some headache...

I have the TCIP4, and I have had the "other one" previously... (it has a lot of different possible names)

The same for me as for mboe, it was a bit finicky about voltages... Would probably just double check those to make sure... But that battery should work just fine...

I also made the wiring myself, so I haven't got the "adapter" from Ignitech...

It does seem likely the problem is there and without having looked at it, the difference in number of cables are for one cable at least should be a double ground in the stock plug... The other wire, I'm not sure about... I'll look at the diagrams when I get back home, out and about now, and it will take a few days before I have too much time...

In the meantime, try and identify what cables are missing?
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Old 11-05-2011, 05:26 PM
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Update: I just sent the unit back to Ignitech for repairs/exchange (at a cost of $65.... #@&%!!!). Will wait to see what happens with the fixed/new one. If it doesn't work, I will likely just pull the plug (no pun intended) on this whole idea..... I don't want this to become a money pit..... (alternatively, I may take Roger D up on his offer to look into getting an ECU from Moriwaki).

In terms of the sensitivity to voltage, I have to wonder if I want to have a critical component that is so finicky.... what happens if it decides to play stubborn 400 miles from home (something my stock unit, with over 150,000 km, has NEVER done)....

Last edited by mikstr; 11-05-2011 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 11-06-2011, 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by mikstr View Post
Update: I just sent the unit back to Ignitech for repairs/exchange (at a cost of $65.... #@&%!!!). Will wait to see what happens with the fixed/new one. If it doesn't work, I will likely just pull the plug (no pun intended) on this whole idea..... I don't want this to become a money pit..... (alternatively, I may take Roger D up on his offer to look into getting an ECU from Moriwaki).

In terms of the sensitivity to voltage, I have to wonder if I want to have a critical component that is so finicky.... what happens if it decides to play stubborn 400 miles from home (something my stock unit, with over 150,000 km, has NEVER done)....
What R/R are you running? Mosfet? If not, then there is the problem right there, since a non Mosfet one will have larger swings on regulation... Ie might hit the reset voltage on a bad day... But with all the other mod's you are probably already good here...
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:49 AM
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Hi Markus,

I am not yet running the MOSFET. It is sitting in a box on my desk and will be going in shortly.

I was hoping to get this whole situation before the season wound down but given the time of year and rapidly cooling temperatures, I guess I will likely have to wait until next spring before I get a chance to sort everything out.

With the bike in storage (winter is good for working on the bike at a more leisurely pace....), I will install said R/R, as well as tackle my vacuum bleed valve/compression braking reduction system, along with a few other little odds and ends....
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:51 AM
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Markus,

on another note, could the R/R also be responsible for my (RC51) tach not working? I recall reading somewhere that the tach is also quite sensitive to voltage levels (although it caused any issues with my OEM unit)?

Either way, this is another matter I need to tend to this winter.....

Last question (re:Ignitech): what dwell setting are you using on the TCIP4? (assuming you are running the CBR600RR stick coils, of course; I recall the map sent by Jan had it set on long, woondering if this needs to be changed due to the different coils).

cheers

Last edited by mikstr; 11-08-2011 at 05:01 AM.
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by mikstr View Post
Markus,

on another note, could the R/R also be responsible for my (RC51) tach not working? I recall reading somewhere that the tach is also quite sensitive to voltage levels (although it caused any issues with my OEM unit)?

Either way, this is another matter I need to tend to this winter.....

Last question (re:Ignitech): what dwell setting are you using on the TCIP4? (assuming you are running the CBR600RR stick coils, of course; I recall the map sent by Jan had it set on long, woondering if this needs to be changed due to the different coils).

cheers
The voltage level on the tach signal is a pretty narrow window, but it should most likely read wrong, not stop working altogether... But I don't know... The tach issue could be that, but it could also be entirely separate... Hard to diagnose it...

Are you sure it was working in the first place? second hand gauges could be just that, second hand, if the bike was in an accident, and the wrong wires got damaged, it could fry stuff...

I set the dwell to short at first, since there was a warning about breaking stuff, and it worked, but was a bit anemic, so i changed... Nothing has broken yet, so it seems safe... No promises though...
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Old 11-08-2011, 05:38 AM
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Thanks
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Old 09-10-2013, 05:53 PM
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Is ignitech still in business? I can't seem to get a message back from them?
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