Jardine black round highmounts
01-25-2007, 05:05 PM
#1
The Hypno-Toad
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Jardine black round highmounts
I know there are a bunch of treads on this, but you guys are always good for opinions. I have D&D's now. I've already got it jetted but theres an occasional back fire through the carbs around 3k, plus I think the D&D's probably wake up the neighborhood when I leave for work in the morning. I'm almost set on the Jardine highmount round black ones. The price is pretty good, but even the Jardine site doesn't offer much info. I'm hoping they will be a little quiter, and a little more restricitive. I'm hoping this may clean up the 3k stumble. I think they look great. The oval look a little big. I know a bunch of you are running these so I'm looking for some input before I order them. 16-1021-03 is the model number I keep seeing, but it doesn't say RT-1 or race or street baffle, so I don't really know what to make of it. I think I want them either way, but I thought I'd run it past you guys. Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Kendrick
Thanks,
Kendrick
01-26-2007, 09:34 AM
#2
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I also plan on going with the black Jardine highmount's. www.starcycle.com has em' on sale for $399.00. I had a Jardine on my 600rr and found it to be nice enough for the cheepish price.
01-26-2007, 06:15 PM
#4
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The Jardine's will wake up the neighbors also. The company offers a restrictor (or something like that) that supposedly lowers the decibels. I don't know the cost but they have it listed in their catalog.
01-26-2007, 09:10 PM
#5
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I put jardine round highmounts on my first 98 back in 99 or 2000. They were LOUD; like set off car alarms as you rode by on even throttle and not gassing it.
If you want lower db's, get staintune $$$, leo vince evo II's $$, or do a lite bafflectomy $.
If you want lower db's, get staintune $$$, leo vince evo II's $$, or do a lite bafflectomy $.
02-17-2007, 09:39 PM
#6
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I have black round Jardine highmounts on mine, and I love them. Yes, they tend to burble a lot on trailing throttle, but they're not terribly loud when you're gentle on the throttle. (You are gentle on the throttle in the early morning going through the neighborhood, right?)
But they sound very, very nice throughout the range, and yeah, they're pretty impressively loud once you get the throttle open. And I get nice, smooth throttle response from them, no stumbles.
But they sound very, very nice throughout the range, and yeah, they're pretty impressively loud once you get the throttle open. And I get nice, smooth throttle response from them, no stumbles.
02-18-2007, 05:59 AM
#7
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What about re-packing your D&D's?A friend of mine is a tech at the honda shop.He had D&D on his 600 they were god awful loud he re packed them with dirtbike muffler packing.It sounded like a big block I4 lol.Low rumble and sounded tuff and not real loud at idle.I bet it would make a SH sound nice.Dyno showed no loss in performance.
Just figured I would throw that out there to try and save you some cash if you didn't want to spend it.But the Jardines do look nice on a Sh.
Just figured I would throw that out there to try and save you some cash if you didn't want to spend it.But the Jardines do look nice on a Sh.
02-18-2007, 06:36 AM
#8
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At one time I went straight from low mount D&D's to the round black high mount Jardines and they are NOTICEABLY quieter. Now "quieter" is relative as they are still what folks would call "loud." When I went from stock to the Jardines on my first superhawk they seemed extremely loud when you don't know anything else, but going from D&D's to the Jardines I found a more muffled sound and was riding around town and shifting about 1k rpm higher everywhere just because they simply weren't as loud. The D&D's were used and the Jardines were brand new, but I don't think any non modified aftermarket mufflers are as loud as D&D's. It's all a matter of personal taste, but the D&D's have more of that sharp, choppy Harley drag pipe sound than any other mufflers. I loved it (and so did people who chased me down) but I like the look of high mount pipes better (low mount duals still look cool though).
02-18-2007, 06:26 PM
#10
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If you are sure they are "backfires" which come from the carbs it means a lean condition. You might need to richen up the carbs but more likely your sucking air because of unseated carbs or possibly another vacuum leak. If the sound is coming from the exhaust and usually under decelleration or when the engine is coming down through the rpms then that means a pair valve malfunction or less likely a header gasket leak.
02-18-2007, 09:10 PM
#11
The Hypno-Toad
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Well I've got both backfires. there's A slight backfire through the carbs at around 3k, mostly when cold. There's also the superhawk racket where if you shut the throttle hard you care scare people at sidewalk cafes.
my mechanic thought there was too much flow with the D&D's even with 185/190 hence the backfire through the carbs. So, I kind of want to restrict it a little more as well. I think they sound great, but non-motorcycle people would disagree. So if I flip the pair vavle it will stop the other backfire?
Kendrick
my mechanic thought there was too much flow with the D&D's even with 185/190 hence the backfire through the carbs. So, I kind of want to restrict it a little more as well. I think they sound great, but non-motorcycle people would disagree. So if I flip the pair vavle it will stop the other backfire?
Kendrick
02-18-2007, 09:43 PM
#12
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You say it fires back up through the carbs when cold. I looked immediately to your location and I'm wondering if your warmup procedure is adequate and proper.
If you have every watched mechanics warm up a race engine you will appreciate the small adjustments that have to be made to RPM's and mixture from the second the motor first fires. Constant adjustment of the choke on a Superhawk is good for the oil, the engine, the carbs and the plugs. When I start mine on full choke the first thing I watch for is black smoke in the exhaust or lugging of the engine. Once it starts to warm and the engine starts running more freely I adjust it down again trying to keep my r's in the 1500 to 2K range. The warmer is gets the less choke it gets until the needle is well off the lower peg. I NEVER touch the throttle during warmup. Everything is done with the choke. This is also an excellent chance to pray that today will not be the day that your cam chains give out. Once it's showing a little gauge I start moving toward the gate etc and by the time I get locked up and back on the bike it's showing the needle at third to mid gauge - ready to rock.
The decel noises can range from a burble which is a good sound to detonation which is a bad sound and can even rearrange some hardware if it's bad enough. Both are the result of raw unspent fuel being puked out of the cylinder into a scorching hot header and it burns uncontrollably giving you all sorts of rumbles, booms, poofs and pows. If the pows are really distinct then there is a jetting or other mixture problem.
I lived in Manysnowdalot for several winters and I'm all too familiar with the "hurry up let's go I'm freezing my *** off" tendency to start it and go but with these high perfomance engines and the size of their pistons - proper warmup is better for your equipment and easier on your ears.
If you have every watched mechanics warm up a race engine you will appreciate the small adjustments that have to be made to RPM's and mixture from the second the motor first fires. Constant adjustment of the choke on a Superhawk is good for the oil, the engine, the carbs and the plugs. When I start mine on full choke the first thing I watch for is black smoke in the exhaust or lugging of the engine. Once it starts to warm and the engine starts running more freely I adjust it down again trying to keep my r's in the 1500 to 2K range. The warmer is gets the less choke it gets until the needle is well off the lower peg. I NEVER touch the throttle during warmup. Everything is done with the choke. This is also an excellent chance to pray that today will not be the day that your cam chains give out. Once it's showing a little gauge I start moving toward the gate etc and by the time I get locked up and back on the bike it's showing the needle at third to mid gauge - ready to rock.
The decel noises can range from a burble which is a good sound to detonation which is a bad sound and can even rearrange some hardware if it's bad enough. Both are the result of raw unspent fuel being puked out of the cylinder into a scorching hot header and it burns uncontrollably giving you all sorts of rumbles, booms, poofs and pows. If the pows are really distinct then there is a jetting or other mixture problem.
I lived in Manysnowdalot for several winters and I'm all too familiar with the "hurry up let's go I'm freezing my *** off" tendency to start it and go but with these high perfomance engines and the size of their pistons - proper warmup is better for your equipment and easier on your ears.
04-12-2007, 08:44 AM
#13
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my Jardines do it too. From what I've read it's the bike itself. When i roll off it sounds like a popcorn popper back there. I also set off car alarms like no bodies business, just put putting by especially in a public garage!
04-12-2007, 01:22 PM
#14
The Hypno-Toad
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Wow, the weathers been so bad here I forgot about this thread. I've had the bike out all of twice this year. The carb backfire seems to be gone. Actually the engine seems to be running better than last year. So, anyway I haven't ordered those Jardines yet. I'm still figuring out what to do about the broken lug on the frame. I cleaned it all up the best I could and scrubbed it with alcohol. Then I tried the JB Weld agian. I can't break the lug off by hand, but I haven't put it all back together and road tested it yet. It's snowing here again. Looks like a three month riding season this year.
Kendrick
Kendrick
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