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Front and rear suspension swap, ya or na

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Old 06-07-2012, 11:33 AM
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Front and rear suspension swap, ya or na

So I've been doing a bunch of reading on here about the front fork upgrades and the rear swing arm upgrades. Then I went and talked to the owner of a suspension shop to get his take on all this as well.

So from what I'm reading on here guys are swapping USD forks such as the 929 and RC51 forks for more rigidity and for more adjustability. Also guys are doing swing arm braces and swing arm swaps to stiffen up the rear as well. From what I'm hearing on here these are making some pretty big improvements.

Then I went and talked to my buddy at the suspension shop and he said the forks and chassis are designed to work together. On the SH they all flex a lot and if you just slap some more rigid suspension on it it's just going to make the frame flex more and stress the frame more. He was telling me about someone who was going through a SH when they first came out and tryin got stiffen it up and he raced it and could never really make it right. Then the RC51 came out and he went that route.

So my question is for those who have done some of these swapps AND have ridden the bikes on the track and have experience with other bikes like the RC51 how much difference does the USD forks and stiffer swingarm really make? Is it a "yeah it makes the bike better but it's still nowhere near a full on race bike like an RC51 or 929 or 60RR etc?" Or is it like a HUGE difference that puts the bike on par with the race bikes.

I guess let me put it this way. If an RC51 is a 95 out of 100 and a SH is a 70 does these mods bring the SH up to say a 90 or more like a 75-80?
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:57 AM
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I have a 954 in the garage and a Storm with a 954 front

The Firestorm will never be like the 954 or the RC51 but it's not to far off,

As far as handling i have mine set up now how i like it and i holds a tighter line the 954 does
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:39 PM
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There are guys who have success racing the Superhawk after doing the front and swingarm fixes. This would indicate to me that the frame (although not the best design for all out racing) is not the weakest link. I guess it depends on your own situation. If you're consistently in the top 10 or 5 of AMA, WERA, or your club racing formula Ultra then this bike won't make you happy. I've seen a guy turn respectable Novice times at PIR on one with upgraded stock suspension and no swingarm brace with a stock engine; maybe some jetting upgrades. I use to race a ZX10 and then a GSXR 1000 and now I just want a fun twisty bike. I ran accross this SH deal that by the time I get her going even with a CBR front end and a good deal on a used Fox or Penske I won't have much more than a grand in it. I expect that to be an excellent ROI on fun factor and surprise factor for guys on newer better machines. The bike is very capable and unless you run accross a steal of a deal on a superior machine you can have a ton of fun with it.
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by GTS
he said the forks and chassis are designed to work together. On the SH they all flex a lot and if you just slap some more rigid suspension on it it's just going to make the frame flex more and stress the frame more.
I've had those same thoughts. It's a known fact that flex is designed into the hawks chassis. But I wouldn't hesitate to do a inverted fork swap if I had the funds.

And comparing the RC to the hawk, not even close (IMO). My buddy used to have one and we switched up a lot. The RC is a brick **** house. That's the best way I can explain it. He couldn't believe I like a bike that wiggles around that much. You really don't notice it unless you can back to back compare it to a stiffer chassis machine, and his RC was just that. BUT try to ride the RVT on long runs...
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:51 PM
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Thanks for the comments so far. I was all gun ho to get all the stuff. I have a 929 front fork/tripple on it's way alrady. I really don't push the bike all that hard at this point but I plan on pushing it more and more but don't really plan on ever putting it on the track. It seems most of the stuff for the swaps can be gotten for a reasonable price and you can sell most of the stock parts for about the same price so you'll have very little net out of pocket. Part of me wants to do it just for the cool factor, part of me wants to see just how cheaply I can do it in net cash flow after I sell off all the stock parts. And part of me wants to do it for the performance aspects of it. Considering how I ride the bike at the moment I'm leaning toward just valving and springs in the front for a start and go from there.
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Old 06-07-2012, 12:56 PM
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Wolverine, the long runs is exactly why I don't just upgrade to an RC. My buddy at the KFG Racing (the suspension shop) agreed with me on that point. Said it'd take a LOT of welding on the SH frame to get it stiff enough. I realize the RVT is a completely different bike but you have to have something to compare to. That's why I was kind of using that scale. You can say those additions make a HUGE difference but in reality it only brings a 70 bike to a 75-80. So while it's a big improvement on a flexy chassis to being with, it's really not a big improvement when comparing it to bikes that are made to run like that.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:04 PM
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The VTR is a "tuned flex" chassis... Ie the frame will flex... It's supposed to...

The difference is with my weight (200-210), the swingarm flexed to the point where i could visibly see the two parts move an inch or more on video a friend took while riding behind me... The fork was also "wobbly" even with firmer springs...

When I started by swapping the forks, i could see marked improvement... The bike tracked a lot better, plain an simple... But, it felt like the rear end was all over...

So, I swapped the rear spring, which helped a little, keeping the rear planted better... Next was swapping the swingarm... That again was a new leap forward...

Not only with the rigidity, but in my case with new geometry, making the bike much more stable... It held a line through corners very nicely, needing small but firm input to initiate the turn...

Still, the bike kind of felt like it was twisting "at the waist" if pushed to far... So I braced the frame... The feeling is still there if you push really, really hard, but not close to as it was before...

No, it's not even close to as rigid as the RC51, or the newer CBR 1000/600RR's... But comparing it to those isn't really fair is it? It's rigid enough to be very, very good on track, and it's flexible enough to be comfortable on road... It's a different approach, but it works very well...

In my mind the point about swapping the fork and the swingarm is only half about the rigidity... The stock fork lacks a lot of adjustability, and being an standard fork, it flexes in all the wrong ways... A CBR 1000RR fork has a lot more setup options, and is actually a lot lighter combined with a lighter wheel... The rigidity is just a bonus...

The SP2 swingarm is just over half the weight of the stock one, a 600RR wheel is lighter for the same width, or a 1000RR wheel gives you a 6" still with less weight... It makes the wheelbase longer, putting the weight on the front wheel... Again, it's more rigid, but that's just a bonus for me really...

The point of the things I did wasn't really rigidity... It was about weight, geometry and control... Yeah, rigidity helps, but isn't all...
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GTS
Wolverine, the long runs is exactly why I don't just upgrade to an RC. My buddy at the KFG Racing (the suspension shop) agreed with me on that point. Said it'd take a LOT of welding on the SH frame to get it stiff enough. I realize the RVT is a completely different bike but you have to have something to compare to. That's why I was kind of using that scale. You can say those additions make a HUGE difference but in reality it only brings a 70 bike to a 75-80. So while it's a big improvement on a flexy chassis to being with, it's really not a big improvement when comparing it to bikes that are made to run like that.
That's where you and your buddy are wrong... Sorry, but i can't put it any other way, and make it understandable...

One, it doesn't take much welding... One plate at the headstock, two cross spars added, and if you do the whole she-bang, you add "ears" for the swingarm, but again those are not for rigidity or handling... Those are there to move stress from the swingarm mount in the engine block...

Two, a bike doesn't need to be rigid to work well, on track or off... It has to flex in a controlled manner... And with the mods I have done on my bike, it does that...

Last edited by Tweety; 06-07-2012 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:28 PM
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I would hazard a guess and say that 99% of people who say that the USD forks or swing arm bracing made a difference aren't talking about lap times...and definitely aren't riding the wheels off their SH enough to have needed the upgrade...

500$ of suspension stuff (fork rework done by a shop and a JD re-worked rear stock SH shock) turned my SH into a new bike...that I still haven't found the limit of on or off the track.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:41 PM
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Tweety, thanks for you thoughts on this. I knew you would be saying ya to the swaps and I highly value your opinion based on what all you've done to your bike.

Originally Posted by Tweety
That's where you and your buddy are wrong... Sorry, but i can't put it any other way, and make it understandable...

Please don't take what I've said as me saying this is how it is. I'm just repeating what my friend said to get your guys' take on it. The things I have to consider is the guys on here are riding these bikes and doing the mods on them, and he is more of a tune the suspension to win a race mind set.

One, it doesn't take much welding... One plate at the headstock, two cross spars added, and if you do the whole she-bang, you add "ears" for the swingarm, but again those are not for rigidity or handling... Those are there to move stress from the swingarm mount in the engine block...

I was thinking of ways that a guy could weld it up to make it more rigid. I just found out a guy I work with just got out of school for mechanical engineering and has access to CNC and water jet machines etc. Thinking a nice brace could be cut out on a water jet and welded in place as well as a diagonal cross spar or two. Do you have any pics of what you've done?

Two, a bike doesn't need to be rigid to work well, on track or off... It has to flex in a controlled manner... And with the mods I have done on my bike, it does that...
Agreed but the point he was making is the parts need to work well together. Rigid front end and rear end and flexy frame make the bike not work well together. One other guy that was there said stiff forks on a flexy chassis can make it chattery.
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Old 06-07-2012, 01:56 PM
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The SH is a cult bike. you kind of love it or not. It wasn't made with top shelf parts more like bin bike. The fun is making changes! There's a lot you can do. If you trying to make it a RC51 stop right now. You can't and why do you want to. HRC through tons of $$$ at the RC and gave up. I have both + a 1098 S , ST3 & others. The SH is mostly waht I ride go figure. Street or track days. Still having fun. Think about selling it then one ride later and I keep it another year. Make your bike what you like. Mine has recetech front end springs& valves + Penski rear shock. the brakes are no longer avaiable 320mm iron rotors with RC 19mm master , calipers , braketech sintergrip xl pads. dam near one finger stopping. Having a 1098S to compair to. I rode a 916 several years ago thinking about buynig it and it is no better than a SH. Have fun what ever you do.
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Old 06-07-2012, 02:56 PM
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Well it's been over a year since I have ridden the VTR I sold, and I only did the front end. But I would swap with yruyur back and forth between his stock VTR front end and mine with a 954 front end, and I much preferred the 954 setup on the VTR. It's probably the forks it should have come with. I never did the swing arm, never pushed it enough to need it, but just the forks were a great upgrade for me.

now I am looking at doing a R1 fork swap on my Roadstar Warrior.. lol (though all I would gain is adjustability as I already have the USD kyb forks)
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:36 PM
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To me the difference was HUGE, it not only tracks better but absorbs the bumps better. The original triple tree looks like it's made for a bicycle by comparison, you can lose yourself in the amount of adjustment and you get an unbelievable improvement in brakes to boot! IMO it was well worth the time and money although it does expose the faults in the rear suspension, so i bought a new shock which helped as well, not as much as a swingarm but still much better. I got a chance to ride a stock vtr a few years after and I couldn't believe how different it felt, never thought I would say it but I really didn't like it.
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Old 06-07-2012, 03:38 PM
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Oh btw I run 06 gsxr 1k forks with radial mount brakes.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by GTS
Tweety, thanks for you thoughts on this. I knew you would be saying ya to the swaps and I highly value your opinion based on what all you've done to your bike.

Agreed but the point he was making is the parts need to work well together. Rigid front end and rear end and flexy frame make the bike not work well together. One other guy that was there said stiff forks on a flexy chassis can make it chattery.
True point, it can create chatter... But that's if you are pushing the bike to nine tenths of it's ability or more... Just saying... And if you are capable of doing that, you just ride around it... With the stock chassie, you will be lucky to push the untouched stock engine to half it's ability before you start slipping and sliding all over the place...

Actually, I managed to muck it all up, so no I have no images of it, or at least not the bare frame... I basically followed Roger D's recommendations, and added material just behind the headstock, in a plate... Then i filled in parts of the cast parts in the frame with figure cut plates welded in... This takes a lot of flex out of the frame... Then two thin round tubes as cross spars through the center of the frame... I haven't yet added "ears", but if my plans for the next engine build stands firm, I guess I'm going to need them...
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Old 06-07-2012, 11:55 PM
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Did you say you didn't have pix of the frame bracing? I understand the ears from frame to swingarm mount as I think I've actually seen a pic of that somewhere but just curious about the frame. Thanks.
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:19 AM
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Originally Posted by eezz
Did you say you didn't have pix of the frame bracing? I understand the ears from frame to swingarm mount as I think I've actually seen a pic of that somewhere but just curious about the frame. Thanks.
No pictures of the bare frame, that's correct... I do have pic's of the completed bike, or can snap more... But the internal braces and the plates inside the cast pieces aren't easy to make out once the bike is assembled...

The ears are easy, but a completely different thing... They have nothing at all to do with handling and they make no difference at all in the subjective rigidity either... They are only needed once you push past 130 bhp at the wheel or so, to keep the swingarm mount from being ripped out of the engine block...

I can't get pics now though, I'm on the road for work, so I'm on my work laptop... But give me a day or two to get home, and I'll post up the images I have...

This a spondon frame that was for sale a while back... Image from that thread, showing the ears...
Attached Thumbnails Front and rear suspension swap, ya or na-images2.jpg  
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:32 AM
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Better image of the ears...
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Old 06-08-2012, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety
.
Wow , OHHH WOW.. Where can I get one of these chickens.....
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Old 06-08-2012, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 1971allchaos
Wow , OHHH WOW.. Where can I get one of these chickens.....
Well... I have most of the parts...
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:31 AM
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Yeah no kidding! Where do you get those fram ears for the swingarm?? They don't look cheap! I assume you have some if you're planning on making north of 130hp as I belive you said you did in another thread?
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Old 06-08-2012, 09:50 AM
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Well... You can't pick them up at the corner shop... I haven't got any yet... I'll have to make them myself probably, since finding a frame with them on will be like winning the lottery... Which I will need to do twice to be able to buy it once I have found it...
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:53 PM
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Seems like a whole lot of welding. Do you re-heat treat the frame and swingarm after all of this? Re-anodize?

To the OP, think about what you want out of the bike. The USD fork setup is appealing and there's plenty of tribal knowledge here and on this site to get that working. If you're considering tearing the bike down to it's bare frame to weld things and change the swingarm then you're really chassis building and you're attempting to make the bike into something that attempts to approximate a bike that you could buy for less $$ (R1, GSXR, RC51, Ducati, etc.) and effort. A guy like Tweety (and there are many) get great satisfaction out of this kind of work and if that's you too, have at it.
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Old 07-18-2012, 12:38 AM
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Yeah you could say I'm one of those guys. I think the closest bike on the list you made to the SH would be the RC51. But the ergonomics of it aren't anything of the SH, not that the SH is great, but the 2K mile ride I just went on would be pretty painful on an RC51.

So Tweety what would be a reasonable price to pay for the frame ears? I've been talking with a guy I work with who just went through engineering school and has some connections. Not sure what it's going to cost but if I had an idea what people would be willing to pay for them I could get an idea weather it'd be worth it or not.
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Old 07-18-2012, 11:17 AM
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Well... I haven't got a clue really... I haven't paid for billet parts for half a decade or more... I just pay for the material and the electrics to run my mill and lathe...

So sorry, I'm not a good judge for that... I simply make all the parts I need...
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Old 07-21-2012, 04:34 PM
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You'll need a new swingarm axle (?), nut, and need to figure out if a new bearing setup is needed or not.
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:17 AM
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Greg, if done correctly, I don't think you need a new axle. The opening is recessed and looks to be about the same overall length as stock, when the footpegs are there.

I did notice how they attached the footpegs. Looks to be drill and tap, then fab up a set of footpegs how you want them. Or possibly, just after market pieces.
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Old 07-26-2012, 10:35 AM
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Ah yes, the footpegs. Forgot about that part. I stand corrected.
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