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Fork;Springs OK or re-valve needed?

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Old 06-02-2008, 06:41 PM
  #31  
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The recommended GV shimstacks work very well. Racetech publishes very extensive instructions to tailor your valves to both riding style and spring weight, BUT keep in mind that these have been engineered for Racetech 10wt oil and no other. They are large port valves much like the new Showa HMAS stuff so really any stack will work with them. Problem is that once the bleed is drilled on the compression valve you can only drill a bigger hole (to change low speed compression damping) which would give you less damping before the shimstack blows open. If you go with a heavier oil to fix the stock rebound problem then you must reshim and redrill the hole to get relatively close damping properties than what you had with lighter oil. And if you don't like the change...? You're screwed. Time to go buy some new Gold Valves.

The correct answer here is to leave the GVs as they are and change the rebound valving to suit the oil.
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Old 06-03-2008, 01:14 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Dan Cronin
RK1,

What springs did you go with and did you end up re-valving?
I went with Racetechs. Per their website my weight fell right between the .80 and .85 so I went with the .85. Haven't done the revalve yet.

When I do I'll have Hawkrider do it like half the people on this forum have.

Right now the weather is too perfect and he's two plus weeks ups ground round trip from here. Even the springs by themselves do make a giant difference in how the bike handles under hard braking and over rough pavement.
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Old 06-04-2008, 08:14 AM
  #33  
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Good info Greg.
I'm getting the picture a little better every day. It keeps me entertained on my commute.

When the shim stack gets stiffer, to provide more high-speed damping and to keep from orifice-controlled damping in the valve body, you then need a wider range for the low-speed portion of the damper valving. Lower oil viscosity allows the curve to cover a wider range before going too steep. A secondary bleed hole provides more flow, for the same reason, and allows the low speed adjuster to stay in it's optimum range. But you would need to be careful with the secondary bleed, to keep from losing the bottom end of the low-speed curve.

I've got some other thoughts, but that's all for now...
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Old 06-05-2008, 06:20 PM
  #34  
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Okay, RC you got me a little confused now. Secondary bleed? Not really such a thing unless you're talking about a damper with HSC adjustability. There is only one bleed, either a hole in the valve bypassing the check valve (for non adjustable forks) or a needle/seat combo that is adjustable.

Remember from the TT44 manual that adjusting the bleed moves the knee up and down the damping curve.
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Old 08-27-2008, 02:03 PM
  #35  
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Anybody know a fork wizard in the north SF Bay Area?

Fork's too soft, and what I'm hearing is: 0.90 springs = need new valves = need new fluid = need tuner = need rear shock work for balance...
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