Bike is Running Rich
#1
Bike is Running Rich
Since rejetting the carbs, my mileage has gone down the tubes and I believe the bike is running rich. I did the following to the carbs using the FP 1.0 jet kit:
#50 pilots, #182fr #185rr, 4th clip from the top and 2.25 turns out on the A/F mixture.
Any ideas were to start leaning the carbs?
#50 pilots, #182fr #185rr, 4th clip from the top and 2.25 turns out on the A/F mixture.
Any ideas were to start leaning the carbs?
#2
Why do you think the bike is running rich. After a spirited acceleration is it popping out through the exhaust when you engine brake? Little bit of this is ok but blowing blue flames only looks good to the guy behind you - not the bike.
Next question, gas mileage in the same sentence as Superhawk?
Next question, gas mileage in the same sentence as Superhawk?
#3
What air filter and cans are you running?
Is the bike running OK?
When my bike was (main) jetted too rich I was still getting 45 mpg on the highway, but I had balking with incremental throttle changes and hiccup/stumble at low rpm.
In the absence of other info, if it is running rich, I'd guess the #50 pilots are a bit large.
Is the bike running OK?
When my bike was (main) jetted too rich I was still getting 45 mpg on the highway, but I had balking with incremental throttle changes and hiccup/stumble at low rpm.
In the absence of other info, if it is running rich, I'd guess the #50 pilots are a bit large.
#4
I have a K&N filter, TBR pipes, switched from the Yoshi RS-3's.
The reason I think it is rich is because I topped off the tank yesterday before a ride with a fellow SHer and the odometer read 65 miles and I put in 2.5 gallons of fuel. Also we switched rides and as I was following I noticed bluish smoke from the exhaust when the other rider went WOT. The bike does not burn oil, have leaks, etc.
The bike seems to run fine, actually better than before the rejet, but the fuel mileage sucks and I have not changed my riding/throttle style.
Previous pilots were #45's.
Maybe I am trying to make something out of nothing.
The reason I think it is rich is because I topped off the tank yesterday before a ride with a fellow SHer and the odometer read 65 miles and I put in 2.5 gallons of fuel. Also we switched rides and as I was following I noticed bluish smoke from the exhaust when the other rider went WOT. The bike does not burn oil, have leaks, etc.
The bike seems to run fine, actually better than before the rejet, but the fuel mileage sucks and I have not changed my riding/throttle style.
Previous pilots were #45's.
Maybe I am trying to make something out of nothing.
#5
again i'll say my bike with the TBR high mount, K&N filter, FP 1 kit. was running on the stock main jets, stock idle jet and the clip on position #4, A/F 2 turns out.
i think it ran great ! & the plugs looked great.
tim
btw: portland 173 ft above sea level
i think it ran great ! & the plugs looked great.
tim
btw: portland 173 ft above sea level
#6
even when riding mine very hard I can usually get 30 mpg. Does it idle perfectly? does it backfire on decel closed throttle?
its hard to start changing things without taking the standard overall approach. get the mains perfect first, then the needles, then the pilots. I think factory pro has a really good write up on how to approach it. It definitely takes some time because you have to change one thing at a time. I don't recall how much of that you've already done. can you safely do full throttle redline runs in 4th gear anywhere nearby? does it pull strong all the way to redline? It can be hard to tell if it could be 'a little stronger' or not, but so it doesn't stumble. You could maybe assume the mains are OK if it does, though if you want to be **** about it, keep going one step leaner till it doesn't pull well then go back up one. If you assume they are right, try lowering the needle and check full throttle midrange and see if it improves (without getting noticeable partial throttle surging). Keep going till you are too lean then back up one. Finally mess with the pilot - particularly if you are way in/out on the fuel mixture screws, it may be because the pilots are large/small. Or if someone here has the exact same set up and its perfect, just use that!
good luck
its hard to start changing things without taking the standard overall approach. get the mains perfect first, then the needles, then the pilots. I think factory pro has a really good write up on how to approach it. It definitely takes some time because you have to change one thing at a time. I don't recall how much of that you've already done. can you safely do full throttle redline runs in 4th gear anywhere nearby? does it pull strong all the way to redline? It can be hard to tell if it could be 'a little stronger' or not, but so it doesn't stumble. You could maybe assume the mains are OK if it does, though if you want to be **** about it, keep going one step leaner till it doesn't pull well then go back up one. If you assume they are right, try lowering the needle and check full throttle midrange and see if it improves (without getting noticeable partial throttle surging). Keep going till you are too lean then back up one. Finally mess with the pilot - particularly if you are way in/out on the fuel mixture screws, it may be because the pilots are large/small. Or if someone here has the exact same set up and its perfect, just use that!
good luck
#7
btw #2: i was talking to chris ( mechanic at EDR performance ), he worked for HRC team honda and rides a superhawk , he said he did a lot of dyno work on his hawk and the stock filter made more power than the K&N.
tim
tim
#8
Ok, so I broke the bike down again and this time it only took me a hour to tear down and put back together. Replaced the #50 pilots with the stock #45 and my idle issue seems to be corrected. I also realized that the A/F screws were not 2 1/2 out but 3 out.
It is raining right now, we need 40 days and 40 nights of the wet stuff, so I have to wait until tomorrow to road test the results.
It is raining right now, we need 40 days and 40 nights of the wet stuff, so I have to wait until tomorrow to road test the results.
#10
3 turns to much on 50s. My bike wouldnt run with 45 pilots. White plugs even with 4 turns out.
All the experts said 50s are to big. Depends on your needles and clip to which has a big influence.
I got better throttle response and bigger wheelies running bigger pilots with the mixture screws 1,5 turns out. The screws have more effect at idle but the pilots will influence to 1/4 throttle openings. 45s and 48s gave me a decent idle but dead throttle response. Damn carbies.
All the experts said 50s are to big. Depends on your needles and clip to which has a big influence.
I got better throttle response and bigger wheelies running bigger pilots with the mixture screws 1,5 turns out. The screws have more effect at idle but the pilots will influence to 1/4 throttle openings. 45s and 48s gave me a decent idle but dead throttle response. Damn carbies.
#12
Thats good to hear then. With dynojet needles they are quite lean on the bottom. Run them on clip 5/6 and the bike runs soft in the middle. Obviously the factory pro needles are a richer needle so you shouldnt have dramas but for those of u who cant get the hawk to stop stumbling run 50 pilots.
I am actually running 52 pilots now with dj needles on 4th clip. Bike wont even make it up the driveway with 45s.
I am actually running 52 pilots now with dj needles on 4th clip. Bike wont even make it up the driveway with 45s.
#13
I've been tring to tell people that for years but it's hard for folks to believe it. I think it has to do with the bike making more intake noise so they think they are getting more power. Hell I even had a member here basically say that I was full of it even though I pointed out that both HRC & Moriwaki recomend the stocker but hey do whatever makes you happy......
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