Jabba

The VTR has a really **** poor alternator, only 280 watts, if memory serves, this sucks!

Basically you could run heated grips, and a heated vest, but that would be about it.

I want to put driving lights on, but the only real option is HID, as they draw less than normal lights for the same output. It will be a situation where if I want the lights on I'll have to shut down the vest or grip heaters

Don't even think about doing like the BMW guys do, Heated jacket, gloves, pants, socks and grips, along with PIAA 910s and a cell phone charger, you will have a meltdown!!

Cheers!

flilow

I have always utilized the fused battery charger connection as a power outlet on my bikes. The wire gage is adequate and they usually use a SAE polarized connector. Within the last couple or so years I converted from the SAE style connectors to the more efficient coax type connectors used by Heatroller and Gerbing) (see http://www.gerbing.com/pages/accesso...ryharness.html).

I usually use relays and always fuse added circuits which include twin 55w haolgen mini driving lights (for which I fabed the brackets that project out the dummy intake snorkels) wired thru a new separate harness direct from the battery using the OEM bulb power wires only to switch the 2 relays for high and low beam and running Sylvania "Silverstar 9003ST" bulbs available at PepBoys for $18 each and as close to HID as you can get (remember HID draw big amps at power-up so there must be a delayed relay transformer unit to prevent popping the main fuse during start-up), heated vest/chaps (for which I utilize the converted automatic battery tender input harness as an output), heated grips (velcro wrap-on) with dash mounted thermostat, radar detector (powered off the instrument cluster), auxiliary neon brake light/license plate surround (with relay triggered by the OEM brake light circuit and using a high voltage transformer), VR/R heat sink 12V CPU fan fed by the running lights, LP front Type 3 semi-flush mount 3-wire running light/turn signals (RL/TS) with the OEM front turn signals moved toand replacing the rear with front running light power split and run to power the formally front now rear TS/RL's (OEM rears are shelved), a second 115 db Fiam (@ PepBoys for $13) low-tone horn located 180 degrees from the OEM horn mounted to the same (but longer) bolt and powered by spade/lug connectors split from OEM wire connectors, and, fianlly, a bargraph type digital volt meter (to monitor and manage all of the above).

280 watts of altenator output is utilized as follows:

280/12.85 = 21.75 Amps

OEM ignition & lights, etc. draw 13.00*

available Amps 8.75

call it 9 amps or 115 watts available for electrical accessories

*posibly 12 amps draw @ lower engine revs

BA

flilow

I'll try to post some photos. They are not current (more recent shots I posted on the List scatch pages that showed the V/R heat sink CPU fan, Penske 2-way shock and Jabba case guards) but do show some the electronics.

Let me know if they posted.

BA

flilow

I just checked the Forum FAQ's and do not know how to "link to an image stored on a publicly accessible web server" and "To display the image use either the BBCode [img] tag or appropriate HTML (if allowed)."?

SOMEONE WANT TO EXPLAIN?

BA

Can I post Images?
Images can indeed be shown in your posts. However, there is no facility at present for uploading images directly to this board. Therefore you must link to an image stored on a publicly accessible web server, e.g. http://www.some-unknown-place.net/my-picture.gif. You cannot link to pictures stored on your own PC (unless it is a publicly accessible server) nor to images stored behind authentication mechanisms such as Hotmail or Yahoo mailboxes, password-protected sites, etc. To display the image use either the BBCode [img] tag or appropriate HTML (if allowed).

flilow

I'm OK Shagmiester, contact me off-forum soon.

BA