Upgrading to a 01+ instrument cluster
04-27-2009, 01:21 AM
#31
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Things went pretty quick once I figured out the rest of the pinout. Had things installed in under 10 minutes. Everything works great, just went on a quick 40 mile ride around town.
Pic 1 the inside of a newer set of gauges if anyone wanted to see what it looks like in there, much more refined than the older model. Smaller bulbs as well.
Pic 2 the completed adapter I made, it has heat shrinking on it then electrical tape to cover the nasty blue shrink tubing I had and give it more of a stock appearance
Pic 3 I used the soldering iron and made a tiny guide hole then put a screw in the keep the jack in place. I did not have a rubber dust boot so I made one from electrical tape which should work for now(not pictured)
Pic 4 The completed unit installed!!
Pic 1 the inside of a newer set of gauges if anyone wanted to see what it looks like in there, much more refined than the older model. Smaller bulbs as well.
Pic 2 the completed adapter I made, it has heat shrinking on it then electrical tape to cover the nasty blue shrink tubing I had and give it more of a stock appearance
Pic 3 I used the soldering iron and made a tiny guide hole then put a screw in the keep the jack in place. I did not have a rubber dust boot so I made one from electrical tape which should work for now(not pictured)
Pic 4 The completed unit installed!!
04-27-2009, 01:36 AM
#32
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First impressions - Overall I am very happy with it.
As others have said, damn the speedometer is hard to read, lol. Does take some getting used to. The number are closer together so a majority of in town riding you are only using a quarter of the speedo. They could have put the max speed to something a little more realistic to utilize some of the real estate.
I love the temperature gauge and find myself eyeballing that a lot. Its great to see the clock as well since its difficult to get to my watch under my jacket. I like having a second trip meter, why, I dont know.
I think Ill look into seeing if I can change the color of the LCD by changing the bulb. At first the brightness of the LCD was throwing me off but I got used to it within a few miles.
Next step is to get to my friends house and use his signal generator to move the miles to where I was on the old odometer. I don't think that should be to difficult.
Oh yeah... and I think I have the same problem as crackrbaby. I know I had almost a full tank and the level on the gauge in reading half. I think the float is hitting the vent tube. I will need to look into that. Does anyone know the orientation of the float in a 01 and up hawk. Does it point straight towards the back? Did they change the vent line routing inside the tank?
As others have said, damn the speedometer is hard to read, lol. Does take some getting used to. The number are closer together so a majority of in town riding you are only using a quarter of the speedo. They could have put the max speed to something a little more realistic to utilize some of the real estate.
I love the temperature gauge and find myself eyeballing that a lot. Its great to see the clock as well since its difficult to get to my watch under my jacket. I like having a second trip meter, why, I dont know.
I think Ill look into seeing if I can change the color of the LCD by changing the bulb. At first the brightness of the LCD was throwing me off but I got used to it within a few miles.
Next step is to get to my friends house and use his signal generator to move the miles to where I was on the old odometer. I don't think that should be to difficult.
Oh yeah... and I think I have the same problem as crackrbaby. I know I had almost a full tank and the level on the gauge in reading half. I think the float is hitting the vent tube. I will need to look into that. Does anyone know the orientation of the float in a 01 and up hawk. Does it point straight towards the back? Did they change the vent line routing inside the tank?
04-27-2009, 04:52 PM
#33
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After some searching around we found that the thermostat has 2 temps sensors on it. The larger one with the green plug has the same part number on it as the newer model. It appears this one does not need to be replaced as it sends the temp to the ecu.
The small headphone jack right next to it does need to be replaced with a newer model as it send the temp up to the gauges. We tested it according to the pre 01 instructions by putting it in hot water and testing it with an ohm meter, it definitely does not register the same. The part number we could read on them were completely different even though Ron Ayers has the part numbers listed as the same on their site.
The small headphone jack right next to it does need to be replaced with a newer model as it send the temp up to the gauges. We tested it according to the pre 01 instructions by putting it in hot water and testing it with an ohm meter, it definitely does not register the same. The part number we could read on them were completely different even though Ron Ayers has the part numbers listed as the same on their site.
Thanks again and let me know what you come up with on the fuel gauge.
Verne
04-27-2009, 04:57 PM
#34
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Thanks for that info. I have my swapped finished up for the Temp gauge and fuel gauge issues. I haven't found the fix for the fuel gauge other than I picked up a Garmin Zumo 550 last year with a mileage fuel gauge you set to your liking. The info I had and all my cross referencing let me to believe it was a wiring issues I could not find. Now I know thanks to you. Need to the new sensor now.
Thanks again and let me know what you come up with on the fuel gauge.
Verne
Thanks again and let me know what you come up with on the fuel gauge.
Verne
04-27-2009, 06:05 PM
#35
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Very nice work ! 
I have thought about doing this swap for a while . Now that you have done the hard part & traced down the pin locations , I will start looking for a cluster & sending unit again . It also looks like the way you made the adapter it wouldnt be too hard to swap back to original if you had to . Again, very nice work !
I have thought about doing this swap for a while . Now that you have done the hard part & traced down the pin locations , I will start looking for a cluster & sending unit again . It also looks like the way you made the adapter it wouldnt be too hard to swap back to original if you had to . Again, very nice work !
04-28-2009, 10:08 AM
#36
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Very nice work ! I have thought about doing this swap for a while . Now that you have done the hard part & traced down the pin locations , I will start looking for a cluster & sending unit again . It also looks like the way you made the adapter it wouldnt be too hard to swap back to original if you had to . Again, very nice work !
I have thought about doing this swap for a while . Now that you have done the hard part & traced down the pin locations , I will start looking for a cluster & sending unit again . It also looks like the way you made the adapter it wouldnt be too hard to swap back to original if you had to . Again, very nice work !
04-28-2009, 10:09 AM
#37
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Still trying to figure out the fuel level issue now. Started another thread about the float hitting the vent line. I got a camera down into the tank and took video, it can be seen here
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18469
Should not be to hard to bend the float arm. I think, any ideas?
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18469
Should not be to hard to bend the float arm. I think, any ideas?
04-28-2009, 10:58 PM
#38
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Updating the thread from my phone as I'm at lazns house away from my computer. Think we figured out the fuel level issue, I'll post picture later. We ended up shortening the arm the float is on so the float is a half inch closer to the sending unit now. Sticking my finger in the tank and moving the float arm able to now show full all the way to getting the reserve light on without having anything make contact inside the tank. The easyway we got access to things is by running the tank to below reserve, remove the front tank bolts and prop the tank up. We could then view inside the filler hole while being able to insert and remove the sensor from below. Much easier than taking the entire tank off. Looks like things will work I'll post pics later.
04-28-2009, 11:10 PM
#39
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We have the signal generator hooked up for about an hour now, the speedo is pegged at over 190mph right now, by our calculation should take about 2 hours to match my old odometer. We tried a faster rate signal rate but the odometer could not keep up. Easy access the the wires are under the seat in the rubber by the battery.
04-29-2009, 08:06 PM
#40
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And here are the pics from last nights adventure
Pic 1 Stock showing original mileage of 20,008
Pic 2 hooking up the signal generator to the harness under the seat that goes to the speedo
Pic 3 New speedo before bumping adding 2000 miles to it
Pic 4 New speedo when we were done adding the miles
Pic 1 Stock showing original mileage of 20,008
Pic 2 hooking up the signal generator to the harness under the seat that goes to the speedo
Pic 3 New speedo before bumping adding 2000 miles to it
Pic 4 New speedo when we were done adding the miles
04-29-2009, 08:10 PM
#41
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So the fuel gauge shows the full range now. I have heard from others that the first three dots drop very quickly, makes sense since the tank is narrow at the top and drops fuel more quickly. How many miles do you guys get for each dot. I still need to make a few adjustments as things are a little extreme I think.
1st dot .6 miles
2nd dot 9 miles
3rd dot 23 miles
They need to make a fuel sensor healer, would be easy enough I think.
1st dot .6 miles
2nd dot 9 miles
3rd dot 23 miles
They need to make a fuel sensor healer, would be easy enough I think.
04-29-2009, 10:55 PM
#42
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All Done
I think Im going to consider this thread closed as everything seems to be working. I will most likely use another thread for the fuel level issue. I guess I should recap everything from my opening statement.
Please feel free to ask if you have any questions. Now on to another project.
Its been fun, now on to another project.
I have always wished I had a clock & fuel level gauge, then after seeing Inderocker's 2005 instrument cluster in person I was sold. I have read a few threads on here with no confirmed completion(from what I could find) of this project, well I figured others must not be OCD like me so I decided to take on this project. I know it would be much easier to swap to another bikes cluster or even an aftermarket but I want to keep the stock appearance.
I ended up purchasing a set of 2005 gauges on Ebay and should be getting them in the next week.Paid $99
I have read a few facts and rumors about the process that I still need to confirm:
Facts:
1. 98-00 have a split plug design for the cluster while the 01+ have a single plug
2. CorrectYou must replace the fuel level sensor in the tankCorrect
Rumors:
1. You must replace thermostat switch(sensor) (according to Ronayers.com 37760-MT2-003 is used from 98-2005)You must replace the small sensor next to the larger sensor on the thermostat housing, to be sure I would get one off a bike as the part numbers seem to be the same but testing has proved they read differently.
2. You must replace the brain(from what I can see it was never changed during the years of the bike)False, this does not need to be touched
3. You must replace the speedometer sensor (according to Ronayers.com part number 37700-MBB-000 is used on 98-2005)False, this does not need to be touched.
Goals I have in mind:
1. Not to cut the existing wiring harness but make a short adapterCompleted
2. Have the exact same miles on the odometer when I am done(Mine has 19000 and the new model has 17000.)Completed. I’m hoping I can get this certified somewhere so if I ever sell the bike.Decided it was not important.
What I need from you guys:
1. Help
2. Close up or macro shots of the 01+ plug that goes into the back of the cluster, each side of it if possible, any identification marks on the plug as well so I can find one on the market somewhere.Completed
3. The front end of an 01+ wiring harness for some of the wires and more importantly the plug that goes into the cluster so that I can make my adapterCompleted
4. A pre 01 instrument cluster or at least the wires off the back including the plug that attaches to the wiring harness so that I can make my adapterCompleted
Taking a quick look at the wiring diagrams in the manual it looks pretty clear cut of what needs to happen, In fact it looks like Honda was nice as most if not all of the same wire colors were used to each gauge in the instrument cluster.One wire color changed but used for the same thing and in the same location
I may have missed a thread so if you have any confirmed information that would be helpful please chime in. This project may take a while but hopefully I can get it done in my lifetime J
I ended up purchasing a set of 2005 gauges on Ebay and should be getting them in the next week.Paid $99
I have read a few facts and rumors about the process that I still need to confirm:
Facts:
1. 98-00 have a split plug design for the cluster while the 01+ have a single plug
2. CorrectYou must replace the fuel level sensor in the tankCorrect
Rumors:
1. You must replace thermostat switch(sensor) (according to Ronayers.com 37760-MT2-003 is used from 98-2005)You must replace the small sensor next to the larger sensor on the thermostat housing, to be sure I would get one off a bike as the part numbers seem to be the same but testing has proved they read differently.
2. You must replace the brain(from what I can see it was never changed during the years of the bike)False, this does not need to be touched
3. You must replace the speedometer sensor (according to Ronayers.com part number 37700-MBB-000 is used on 98-2005)False, this does not need to be touched.
Goals I have in mind:
1. Not to cut the existing wiring harness but make a short adapterCompleted
2. Have the exact same miles on the odometer when I am done(Mine has 19000 and the new model has 17000.)Completed. I’m hoping I can get this certified somewhere so if I ever sell the bike.Decided it was not important.
What I need from you guys:
1. Help
2. Close up or macro shots of the 01+ plug that goes into the back of the cluster, each side of it if possible, any identification marks on the plug as well so I can find one on the market somewhere.Completed
3. The front end of an 01+ wiring harness for some of the wires and more importantly the plug that goes into the cluster so that I can make my adapterCompleted
4. A pre 01 instrument cluster or at least the wires off the back including the plug that attaches to the wiring harness so that I can make my adapterCompleted
Taking a quick look at the wiring diagrams in the manual it looks pretty clear cut of what needs to happen, In fact it looks like Honda was nice as most if not all of the same wire colors were used to each gauge in the instrument cluster.One wire color changed but used for the same thing and in the same location
I may have missed a thread so if you have any confirmed information that would be helpful please chime in. This project may take a while but hopefully I can get it done in my lifetime J
Please feel free to ask if you have any questions. Now on to another project.
Its been fun, now on to another project.
05-11-2009, 01:56 PM
#44
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10-06-2009, 03:27 PM
#45
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Ok. Things have finally slowed down so I can finish this up on mine. I orginally got the two plugs you were referring to backwards in my head. I did replace the sensor on the one that has the headphone jack plug. My question is Should you or shouldn't you use a sealer (Teflon Tape, gasket maker, or what ever) on the threads?
I did this the first time and wondering if that is my issue?
Once I get this figured out all I need to do is modify the sending unit for the fuel tank and it will be good to go. But what is the hurry at this point, I have been riding around two years with no temp gauge.
Thanks,
I did this the first time and wondering if that is my issue?
Once I get this figured out all I need to do is modify the sending unit for the fuel tank and it will be good to go. But what is the hurry at this point, I have been riding around two years with no temp gauge.
Thanks,
10-06-2009, 04:09 PM
#46
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I helped yruyur with this, and I don't recall 100% if the sensor needs a ground through the case or not.. But I think so, and putting too much sealer so as to prevent a ground would make it not work.
The sensor can be tested outside of the bike (testing procedure is in the manual) we did this to determine if the 98 sensor was the same range as the 01 sensor, and they are different. (attach a Ohm meter, and put the sensor in boiling water is the gist of it, but read the manual)
The sensor can be tested outside of the bike (testing procedure is in the manual) we did this to determine if the 98 sensor was the same range as the 01 sensor, and they are different. (attach a Ohm meter, and put the sensor in boiling water is the gist of it, but read the manual)
05-13-2010, 09:59 PM
#47
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So the fuel gauge shows the full range now. I have heard from others that the first three dots drop very quickly, makes sense since the tank is narrow at the top and drops fuel more quickly. How many miles do you guys get for each dot. I still need to make a few adjustments as things are a little extreme I think.
1st dot .6 miles
2nd dot 9 miles
3rd dot 23 miles
They need to make a fuel sensor healer, would be easy enough I think.
1st dot .6 miles
2nd dot 9 miles
3rd dot 23 miles
They need to make a fuel sensor healer, would be easy enough I think.
Does your gauge still show the same reading:
1st dot .6 miles
2nd dot 9 miles
3rd dot 23 miles
Mine loses a bar for each 20 miles or so, depending my mpg's. I wonder if you got a bum sending unit.
05-14-2010, 12:31 AM
#48
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A thought - the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) wire on my Jeep puts out that same 5v pulse. IIRC it is white with orange stripes. Maybe you could tap into this wire on your car and drive around with the new cluster tapped into that wire.
I know this because of installing a GPS many years ago that was hard-wired into the car. Look at the schematic of your car for the VSS lead.
JB
I know this because of installing a GPS many years ago that was hard-wired into the car. Look at the schematic of your car for the VSS lead.
JB
05-14-2010, 09:09 AM
#49
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I think it is largely a factor of shortening the float arm to clear the pre 01 vent line. And we probably can help with just bending it right, but he has been riding it as it is now for about a year and I doubt we will tear into it again soon.
12-28-2011, 08:43 PM
#50
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Hayward, San Francisco bay area: California
Posts: 77
I followed this thread to the letter and can vouch for the correct and strait forward instructions contained within. Thank you guys... One thing I found that is overlooked is the new gauge has no kickstand warning light in it.. I will probably add a led to my new gauge set to use that signal although it is not real important .. I can also suggest that if purchasing a newer cluster at least power it up to see if it has miles that are lower than your own. you can easily add miles but subtracting them is something that I have yet to figure out...I gained 40000 miles in my upgrade.! duh!!
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05-25-2009 07:14 AM
003, 37760, 37760mt2003, adjust, cluster, f4i, gauge, gauges, honda, instrument, mt2, odometer, part, removing, replace, replacement, speedometer, wiring
