It's taken me awhile but I have finally come up with an inexpensive but attractive solution for mounting a headlight and instruments on naked VTR's, or other bikes with UpSideDown forks.
Headlight ears are hard to come by for the large diameter tubes of the USD forks, unless you're willing to spend some serious money.
After buying an XR650R I realized how easy it really is to make your own.
Using 4 of the number plate straps and 3mm ABS plastic plate stock I came up with a good working solution for headlight mounts.
There is a slight jiggle on bumby pavement but not enough to affect the headlight function, if anything it acts like there is a headlight modulator installed.
Comments and questions, as always, are welcome.

Kai Ju

 

Hey that looks pretty cool. Post a few pics of the whole bike, it looks pretty neat.

 

Thanks, here is one but if you want more, see my "The new guy and his VTR"
post.
You'll get to see the evolution of this bike for the past couple of years.

Kai Ju

 

Very nice. Another groovy fabrication of yours. Job well done!

 

Hey..
I really like the look and feel of a bike like that. Simplicity. I just about ended up with a 919 before getting the VTR this fall.. Like the ergonomics of the 919..like the motor on the VTR.. next winter I'm likely going to go that route..Givi makes a sweet windshield to go with that set up ..good for long tours..
Question.. The VTR is a bit light in the nose, heard it suggested that the low stock bars help put rider weight forward.. Have you ever felt any negatives after the switch.. bars twitching.. uncertain feel in front???????????

Thanks
Dave

 

I was concerned about that as well when I first made the conversion and even bought a steering damper just in case.
I still have the damper sitting on a shelf.........
Taking the fairing and radiators off the front I lost probably 10-15 lbs but have never had any stability issues, even at 130 plus.
What really helps, even on the stock bike, is to raise the rear ride height by shimming the upper mount about 5mm.
I also raised the seat height to 34" which effectively lowered the bars, plus I have a 5.5 gallon fuel tank, all of which has helped.
The biggest issue I have is that I have to short shift leaving a light or the front end just comes up, even with stock gearing.
It also gets light coming out of turns hard in the lower gears but I've gotten used to it and actually enjoy it.
Also, thanks for the positive comments.
BTW, I had a 919 for two years but now have the best of both worlds, a comfortable riding position and V-twin power.
Kai Ju

 

Is that an aftermarket tank or retrofitted from another bike?

 

I have had my 954 front end on my VTR for a few weeks now and, although I haven't really ridden it hard, my gut feeling is that it is too low in the front. I have the rear shimmed 5-6 mm, which was perfect with the VTR forks but seems a little too much with the shorter 954 fork in its place. I had lowered the front (raised the forks in the triples) with the stock forks, but the 954 is still a half inch or so shorter than the stockers. It seems a little twitchy to me, but I'll ride it awhile longer before I change the rear ride height just to be sure.

 

My apologies-of course I remember seeing this bike before-I LOVE it!!! Too cool, just a perfect everyday do it all bike. Love what you've done with it!

 

That looks awesome Kai!

 

Are you running the clipons above the clamp ?
If so then the forks are shorter than what I'm running by the height of the clamps.
I'm running my forks about 5mm above the triple clamps since I don't need the additional height for the clamps. See above pics.
I would remove the shim from the rear shock but be aware that you now have lowered the bike considerably compared to stock, so be carefull.

Kai Ju

 

Its a 1998 to 2001 VFR800 tank. First generation FI.
It fits the contour of the frame quite well but does take a considerable amount of mods to look and work right. But total investment is less than $150.00 ( Thanks E-bay and for myself I work for free )
One of the best mods I have ever made. I can routinely go 180 miles and have gone as far as 213 miles and still had fuel left. ( A rare 41 mpg coming back from Laguna Seca this summer at steady state cruising speed )
There are some detail shots in my original thread and Superbling has done a good "how to" write up that's in the knowledge base.
If you need more details from me please let me know.

Kai Ju

 

No, I made spacers similar to yours, mounted clamps and installed a tubular handlebar. The tops of the fork tubes are flush with the top of the triple, but, even so, the forks are a bit shorter than the (lowered) stockers.
I won't remove all the spacer (I used 4 big flat washers) under the shock mount, so the rear will still be higher than stock. I could ride the bike as fast with the stock rear ride height as I can now, but the amount of effort required to get it to turn was much, much higher.
Like I said before, I haven't ridden it that much or that hard, so I may get used to it or change my mind, but my feeling is that it is a little too low in the front (or too high in the rear, since I can't raise the front).

 

Ah, but you can! Have you checked your sag? A little increase in preload will raise the front and give you a little more stability by raising the front. Side benefit is not reducing available lean angle.

 

Greg, I have read+ your article about sag on your website and while I understand the process, you say at the end "then you can set your sag to an optimal level" (sorry) Once you have the measurements what are the parameters of the "optimal level" Could you explain?

 

Where are the radiators? Are you even using any coolant in the bike?
Is the oil cooler the only cooling circuit on the bike?

 

You know I like it!!

 

Nuhawk,

See https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ead.php?t=4122

 

There is nothing like having your thread hijacked.........
But facelifts are done to remove sag of some sort or another......


Kai Ju

 

In order:
Under the seat and it's only one now. ( See attached thumbnail )
Yes I am still using coolant, ( water with Water Wetter in case it leaks, which it hasn't)
No, ( see above )

Kai Ju

 

Sorry, Kai Ju. The SHF is pretty laid back, and so am I. I like to think there's no such thing as a thread jack here.

But....to make you happy, I made some changes above.

 

Sorry for the misunderstanding, I was actually trying to use it to be funny.
That one backfired on me.


Kai Ju

 

Heh, heh, I got it.

 

Preload is maxed out (in). Springs are stock 954 springs with most of the progressive coils cut off and spacer lengthened accordingly. I haven't checked the sag because I know it's way more than optimum and the front is softer than it should be anyway. New .90 Ohlins springs are on the way.
I'll get it right yet.

Sorry for the thread hijack, Kai Ju.-) Nice work, as always.

 

That's an odd way to modify a spring. Not only did you stiffen it by removing the tightly spaced coils, you also stiffened it by removing coils as well. There's an equation but I won't bore you.

Either way, getting the proper springs in there should help out the situation a lot. Hopefully 90s will be stiff enough. I'm a bit heavier than most at about 225# but I'm using 1.05 Ohlins.

 

That's the way I have modified every fork spring I have ever modified. Like the stock Super Hawk fork springs, the stock 954 springs are way too soft, especially in their initial rate. By the way, I do use the formulas for calculating the increase in spring rate by shortening a spring. The setup is in the ballpark now, but I think the proper rate spring of greater length is a better solution.
I use the info available at Peter Verdone's website, with which, I believe, you are very familiar. It's a nice resource.
I was torn between the .90 and .95 springs. I weigh 175 and don't race, but ride aggressively on the street. The .90 RaceTech springs I had in the stock forks were just about perfect, but I'm reading that RaceTech springs are actually stiffer than their stated rate, so maybe the .95 Ohlins will be better. Anyhow, I can always stiffen up the .90's by cutting a coil or two off if need be.-)

 

Which bike did that radiator come from?

Does it provide enough cooling while cruising? or are the fan constantly on?

Are the fans blowing or sucking air from the radiator?

Did the battery needs to be relocated?

Any more pictures of the coolant lines routing?

 

With shorter springs you risk coil binding.

Yeah, I helped him write some of it. He wrecked about a month ago and totalled his bike. Did you see the pics?

Yeah, I think RT springs are all over the place - soft, hard, spot-on. Kind of a gamble when you get 'em. I traded out my RTs for Ohlins with a guy about 4 years ago when the email list was still around.

 

Send me a pm with your e-mail and I'll get you all the pics you want.

Kai Ju

 

Hello Kai,
Please check your email, I sent some more questions to you a couple of days ago, just wondering if you've received them.