That sounds fun... Right now I'm about to take a hammer to my compressor... Sounds like your day is going about as good as mine...

 

Cool! My bike can "roll over and play dead" too. Unfortunately mine was put on its side by a distracted cager.

I hate it when studs/bolts break off flush like that. PB Blaster and a left hand drill bit sometimes works better than an easy out. Especially with smaller sizes where the easy out is likely to break. In 34 years of teaching Vocational Automotives, you wouldn't believe how many broken fasteners I had to deal with. Chisel and hammer sometimes works too.

The speedo, controls and all looks great.

 

yes, sounds like you guys understand perfectly. my vote if you are going to hit something with a hammer is a 20 lb sledge after one hit you are too tired to hit it again.

 

I can appreciate your views on simplification.Being a mechanic for over 40 years I have seen the over and under engineered and had to work on it.Sometimes when we want to change engineering to simplify we fail to see the real reason it was done a certain way.You have definately simplified the rear suspension.Going from 2 shocks to 1.In doing so you have put alot more stress on the swing arm.Your bracing may help but the concern I have is for failure in the area were the torque tube mounts to the final drive.By moving the shock mount to the torque tube you have now made eveything aft a load bearing member.That joint was not design as a load carrying area. Several things could fail here in this possible order 1)weld failure at torque tube to flange.2)Studs pulling out of final drive(with or without cracking around studs.3)Studs shearing off.Not saying this will happen but with your change the possibility is there.Just keep an eye on this area.Keep a eye on those Com Star wheels too.

 

Obviously any time you change something you are introducing an entirely new set of stresses and issues. Anyways just because something was not designed for a certain use does not mean it won't work. I will of course keep an eye on it but I don't envision problems (maybe hope) who knows, no expert or anything but I do know my metal and most people have no idea how strong some things really are once welded, or bolted for that matter. At any rate I will keep my eye on the drive shaft bolt mounts I hadn't consider them suspect. What was wrong with the comstars?

 

The spokes of the Comstars were riveted to the rim. Like I said earlier, my CX had 72,000 miles on it when I sold it. I put 53,000 of those miles on it, and even flat out at 105 on Angeles Forest Highway, I never had a problem with them. Comstars were also used on the CB750F. My friend had a '78 CB750F that he rode the crap out of for at least 90,000 miles. I heard of problems with them, but never knew anyone who had a problem. I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Thanks VTR Surfer the info on the wheels I just forgot already .

and FWIW the monoshock setup was not to simplify an already simple machine it was to allow for a lower and much cooler seat and tail section. If I wanted it simple I would have left it alone. Just trying to eliminate any confusion about my simple things speech a number of posts back. I don't do simple customs I try and do cool customs. Cool by my definition at least. Good now I feel better. No one should ever misunderstand crazy peoples thread ramblings.

 

Hey, sometimes that just goes along with being creative. Just don't go cutting your ear off or anything like that.

 

nah I just cut ugly motorcycles

 

Its beginning to look like a race bike! I got the carbs back on, the shock frame mount painted, the carbs jetted, also finished the exhaust and it is mounted. Just batteries, a seat, blinkers, and the license plate.

 

Anyways I started the bike today and all I have to say is wow this thing sounds great. I will post a vid tomorrow, but I don't think the video properly shows the ground shaking reverbs you can feel through your feet when next to the bike ;D.

Though its not all good news, I have a short somewhere in my electrical system that I am beginning to think might be in the horn system as the original wiring has some burned ends and after I disconnected it it stopped shorting. Now I need to figure out what to do about that. Also the AGM battery I bought doesn't allow enough flow through the terminals to engage the starter...arg so a waste of $4O now I need to decide whether to do what I originally planned which was two small motorcycle batteries with the sturdy style terminals or use the huge and ugly stock battery. I don't want to spend more money though but the downside is the ugly battery...any thoughts guys?