Easy, undo the swing arm bolt a bit. Undo the little bolt under each peg mount. Twist it to where you want it to be. Make a bracket from where the hole on the peg mount is to the mount on the frame.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ts-link-17348/

 

Ah Ha!

 

I find those rotory dampers interesting. Just cool how they work.

Plans for my bike? Well, this is what I wanted to do from the very begining.

Plans are as follows:

Powdercoat gloss black
-Frame
-Subframe
-Moriwaki rearsets (I might powdercoat them or just leave them silver)
-Danmoto adj. clipons (got a good deal on brand new silver set)
-Braced swingarm

Install the CBR1000RR front end that's been sitting in front of my work bench for many months.

Weld the CBR900RR brace into the Superhawk swingarm.

Paint the engine gloss black and the valve covers silver.

Install the Ohlins shock.

Fabricate an aluminum fairing stay.

Sounds like a lot, but I have ALL the parts. What I need to do is a crap load of labor. Which will take most of the winter here. It will be a fun project! Parts will be everywhere, just like when I bought it haha. Hey, I put it together from scratch, so this should be easy. At least I won't be stopped in my tracks by a frozen bolt or something.

 

Careful mate,

Don't Jonah yourself.

I am up to my armpits in TLS work at the moment.

What a bucket my brothers bike is.

None or very little maintenance has taken it's toll.

Looking forward to seeing your bike when it's done.

Keep us posted mate.

 

 

Lookin good bro.

Much better now.

Like the pipes

What's next?

 

Complete teardown. Getting the frame, subframe and swingarm (among other parts) powdercoated gloss black. Installing the '07 CBR1000RR front end and braced swingarm.

 

Someone's got OCMD... na na na na na.....

 

I contracted it from you! Haha

 

we're in good company, lol

 

Thanks to a member here (Thanks again Thomas!), I finally recieved a set of brand new 11.5 JE pistons today along with new rings and wrist pins.

I want to get aftermarket, lighter & stronger connecting rods. How does one go about finding and ordering a set?

EDIT: Micky, I just noticed you have Carillo rods. How did you get those?

 

The Carrillos were a custom set as they had quit making them a few years prior. I sent a set (rod code no. 2) to Carrillo, who took the critical measurements to make a custom set. That was about 3 years back, so I would imagine they still have the specs.

I had ordered said rods from Dynoman Performance, ask to speak to Buzz, the manager. I believe they were $599 for the set.

Here are the weights specs for them:
OEM Rear: 535.9g
OEM Front: 538.6g
Carrillo Rear: 457.1g (-78.8g)
Carrillo Front: 456.3g (-82.3g)

I had my crank re-balanced to the rods and JE pistons (they removed a total of 180g from the crank)

Hope this helps

 

Wow, thanks for all that information! I really appreciate it man. I will get a hold of Buzz and get this going. Thank you

 

Glad I could be of assistance. Don't be shy to call on me again

 

Riding season is back! Finally took the bike out yesterday. I was able to get a hold of a set of low mount carbon fiber D&D's and install them on the link pipes for the high mount Jardine's they replaced. So, I now have high mount D&D's. They look fantastic as high mounts!
The sound between the Jardine's and D&D's are quite different. The Jardine's are loud and so are the D&D's, but the D&D's have a nice deep tone to them. This is most definetly the sound I have been looking for with an exhaust.
I'm not sure if the Jardine's have to be repacked, but when you nail the throttle, they would have a crack to each exhaust pulse, similar to an old V-8 with glasspacks. I like that sound, but the deep tone of the D&D's is much better in my opinion.




Going to install the Moriwaki rearsets this morning and then take 'er for a spin today. I ordered a Flow Comander this weekend. I cannot wait to install it. People have had fantastic results with it.

I'm still waiting for my shift kit from Factory Pro. I ordered it in the begining of January. They said that they are out of the "stars" and only make them twice a year. I guess thier machine shop keeps telling them "next week", but it isn't happening. We will see if I ever recieve my shift kit. This is my first dealing with Factory Pro and it has me a little worried.

 

Got around to installing the Ohlins rear shock today. I had an issue with the suspension linkage, so I'm cleaning it up and painting it. I honestly didn't expect this, since the bike was put together by me about two and a half years ago. I knew about the issue with the suspension linkage and took measures to keep that from happening. I put antiseize on everything, but one bolt still freakin' got stuck. I have the tools to remove it, but it was more work than I wanted to do tonight. Oh well. At least all the needle bearings were just fine.

While I was in there, I regreased all the needle bearings and painted a couple items.

 

I got the shock in late last night after the clear coated parts were dry. Putting the parts in front of a nice toasty fire in the living room to help dry them faster worked like a charm. I just have two issues now. Man, does the bike lean with the stock kick stand! I remember hearing that a CBR1000RR kick stand is a little longer and bolts right up. Time for some searching.
Second issue, the shock resevoir doesn't have a spot to attach to. The line isn't long enough to let it attach to the sub frame. No amount of fiddling with the shock will allow the resevoir to make it to under the subframe. I could get maybe a half an inch closer if I was to loosen up the resevoir lines and adjust them, but I would then need to get the nitrogen refilled. In the mean time, its just zip tied to a cross brace under the subframe. It looks like crap, but it's out of the way for now.
Its a beautiful day here, so I can finally take the bike out to see how the shock helped the bike. I also made a few changes with the jetting for the FIL mod, so want to see how that goes.

 

The Ohlins rear shock is...WOW! What a difference! Unreal what a difference it makes. However, I was going from a stock '98 Honda Superhawk shock to a Ohlins shock that was just rebuilt for me and my bike. It does now show how crappy my leaky, blown, stock forks are haha. I have the correct All ***** bearings on the way for the fork swap. I thought the '07 CBR1000RR used the same bearings as the Superhawk, but it shows a different lower bearing on the All ***** website for fork swaps.
Fork swap happening soon!

 

How is the jetting?

 

The 45 pilots are still too much. Dropping in the 42's today. I figured as much, that I would end up around the 40-42 pilots, like you and Micky, but I just didn't want to jump right down to those.
The top end adjustments haven't changed though. With all of the riding I did yesterday, I wasn't able to stretch the Superhawk's legs.

 

Got a new part for the bike

I love knowing what my engine is doing and this tells me the oil temperature. It took a while to find one that reads in fahrenheit. It was $45, but for me it was worth the money. Looks cool to boot

I haven't rode with it yet, so I don't know what my oil temperature is.

 

My oil temp never gets over 125F degrees. Is this the normal temperature? Either my new oil temp gauge isn't working correctly, or the oil cooler is pretty efficient.

 

if your referring to the reading on your filler cap, just remember its not submerged in oil... as far as I know

 

This is why I haven't bought one of these gauges. The ones I've seen advertise a very short probe length. I don't see how these can offer an accurate oil temp.

Is this wrong, Crux? Anyone?

 

The oil gets flung up to it, or so I assume. It has a probe length about an eighth inch longer than the length of the filler cap itself. Any longer and it would hit the clutch basket.

I got the bike up to temp, and put my hand on the clutch cover, then placed my hand all over the oil pan and oil cooler. It feels pretty much the same temp as the clutch cover. So, maybe it is correct? I got a buddy with one of those infrared laser temp finder doohickeys. That should tell me what's what.

 

I love doohickeys! lol

seriously, if you want an accurate oil temp your going to need to find out an exact temp( sensor in line with cooler somewhere) and compare to readings off your filler cap

 

F@ck that noise scottiemann. This is about having a cool-looking doohickey, not about function. Crux is just pretending to care about accuracy because he isn't secure in his superficiality like I am.

 

lol, I already told him in another thread I love his doohickey.....

oh man...

 

I got a package in the mail today! Based on its shape, its hard to tell what it is. So, I'll give you guys a hint. It's got six spokes and will allow me to finally put my '07 CBR1000RR front end on my bike. It took a LONG time to find a RC51 SP1 wheel. I have been searching for about a year. I finally put up a few wanted ads and a guy from the Isle Of Man responded. With shipping, it cost me $350 for the wheel, which is about average price for one of these wheels. The wheel came with a history of sorts. Check it out...

Suprisingly, the wheel has no nicks or dings. I checked the runout right away and it is perfectly straight.

I found that the CBR1000 axle does not fit the SP1 wheel. So, I'm assuming I need the SP1 axle to make this fit the CBR1000 forks? I thought it was a straight bolt on but I guess not.

Before I can bolt this onto my bike, I need to clean up the wheel and send both the SP1 wheel and my six spoke 900RR wheel for powder coating. Was thinking of powdercoating the wheels silver and painting the Moriwaki belly pan the same color, but decided black would be best for everything.

 

OOOOhhhhh pretty!!! love the 5 spoke.

lookin good brotha

quick question, why an SP1 wheel and not the CBR wheel that goes with the forks?