Yeah, that's pretty much what I did. When the front cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke the intake valves on the rear are fully open and there is maximum tension on the rear cam chain. In this configuration the tight chain appeared to leave the rear portion of the intake cam sprocket at about 12 o'clock and expose quite a bit of tooth. I could press down on the chain with my finger on the intake sprocket and transfer the slack to between the cams and have a noticable amount of play in the exhaust cam (a good millimeter at least, maybe a little bit more) @ "finger tight minus 1/4 turn". I then proceeded to put #2 back at TDC/compression and make it tighter until I was satisfied with how it all looked as I turned it 'round and 'round with my wrench. I then "ballparked" the front much as you describe and buttoned it all up. For me that ballpark was as tight as I could get it with my fingers on the bolt, but not as tight as I could get it with a socket and knurled extension. I nearly decided to bite the bullet and remove the front cover, but decided to try it first and it all appears and sounds pretty normal. I'll putt around town a bit without the earplugs and listen for strangeness before hitting the road. This community is a great resource.
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to all the blokes and blokettes who put this incredible thread together and Lazn a special mention...

I replaced my CCTs today, rear one was cactus and in my opinion about to let go at any moment, i could easily push it in with one finger whereas the front one was fairly firm, yet the front one seemed the noisest......go figure?

Anyway using this and Lazn;' guide it was done easily and without any drama didn't even remove the front tappet cover.

so much smoother and better running down low now and the slapping noise is gone...

Big Thumbs up .....

Bruce Cee

 

Glad you found the pdf helpful. That's why I put it together from ripvanwinkle's thread on the UK forum & pics we took. Having a PDF in one easy place is nice and I figured others would like it.

(and if anyone else wants to improve the document, do so, just be sure to credit Rip for the words & Yruyur for his pics)

 

HELP!

I have been working on my SH, changing the CCT's. When I got the rear cylinder to TDC, and removed the CCT very very slowly, I got the damn click. So I remove the cylinder head and see it jumped. Per the CCT instructions, I took it off TDC, and tried to rotate the RI Cam back. Well, it didn't work, and it through off the timing. Now I have no fricken clue what to do.

Someone please help.

 

Well, if you have the rear valve cover off, you're halfway there. First off, you should make sure that you're really at TDC. The reason I say this is because the timing in the little hole (where you looked at the RT mark) actually passes by twice for every time you hit TDC per cyliner. It has a 720 degree rotation. The easiest way that I've found to do this is check your cam lobes. For the rear cylinder, they should look like this when you're at TDC.. picture jacked from another thread.



If you're doing this without the cover off there are other ways, but for now this works.

 

should line up RI and RE sprocket marks with the edge of the head facing outward. Pull chain up and line up sprocket marks.

 

You should be able to rotate the cylinder- it's a lot easier if you remove your plugs, but it more than likely didn't skip enough to screw up your timing enough so that you can't rotate it. You can always rotate it around two times again to get it to the correct spot.

The next thing that you do is take the little chain cover off, like is already done in this picture. It's the little metal bracket that sits between the two sprockets. If your CCT is removed already, then the chain will have a lot of slack in it. Double check that your crank is on the RT mark, and then you can line up your sprockets to re-set the timing.

If it skipped, you more than likely will only be moving the chain one tooth over on each gear. The way to set the chain is to line the marks on the sprocket up so that they're even with the cylinder head, a-like so:


This was taken from the FRONT cyliner, and the timing marks are different from the back. I can't remember which ones face where as they are different, but basically it's the only mark that looks correct when you have the cam lobes pointed the way they are in the first picture.

Get the marks lined up- I actually got it right just by eyeballing it. The sprocket teeth are far enough apart that it's pretty obvious if you mess up. Then, and this part is important too, pull the chain so that there is no slack on the side opposite of the CCT. Your CCT picks up slack on one side, so you need to pull the other one so that the cam chain is tight when it runs down to the crank. Pull it over both sprockets and then zip tie the cam chain to the sprockets to hold the timing until you get your new CCT installed. Cut the ties or string or whatever off when the CCT is installed and double check that the timing marks line up and you should be good.

 

Those were the ones- totally makes sense, I just always forget! RI for Rear Intake and RE for Rear Exhaust perhaps?

 

It was at TDC, but now its not. When I tried moving the cam sprocket, it moved the flywheel.

And the timing was perfectly fine before I got the bright idea to touch the cam sprocket.

 

It's still moving the crank/flywheel because the cam chain is running down to those gears. This is supposed to happen. If you're positive it skipped, just take the cam chain cover off and lift the cam chain off the sprockets. When your chain is loose, it can fall down the hole that it's in- careful to not let this happen.

 

Just to double check- your chain is still on your sprockets? Did you see the chain skip? If it just skipped over one, take that chain cover in between the sprockets off and lift the chain up and turn them both back one. Probably do this one at a time.

 

I was positive it skipped, just one tooth.

But, I touched the cam sprocket, and like I said, the rear cylinder is no longer at TDC. In order for me to set the sprockets back to the correct timing, do I need to be at TDC? If I do need to be at TDC, then I have to rotate the flywheel back to it. If I cannot turn the flywheel that much, then what do I do to relieve the compression?

Or can I just set the sprockets back without it being at TDC.

 

You can set the sprockets back without being at TDC- if you know what direction it skipped, just lift the chain up and rotate them each back one. Then the timing will be back.

To relieve the compression, just take your sparkplug out (if you have the correct socket that is haha). Edit: another way around this is is to turn your motor around again twice (but not quite!). With the timing off one gear you won't hurt your motor. And another way I think that you can is to put the bike in 6th gear an try to rotate the tire back.

 

Okay. I will try to do this in the morning. The cam sprocket should move freely when the chain is removed?

 

Ooooh, I think you got me with that question- they might if you're close to TDC. The only reason I say this is that I know I've read other members have the exact same problem and that's how they fixed it. But you're correct in that if the sprockets are way off TDC, there is pressure against the cam lobes from the valve springs, and I'd imagine that either they won't move, or they will be pushed up with little control over their direction.

I'll bet that you can, though. Maybe someone else with more experience can confirm or deny this.

Or remove your plugs and crank that flywheel backwards.

I know that I was able to move the flywheel with the rear wheel on a stand and in 6th gear. You can kind of "bounce" the wheel to inch it forwards or backwards to get the mark lined up well. Sorry that I'm all over the map with things to try; not too sure what you have available to work with.

 

The rear tire is off the ground, and its in 6th gear. So, you're saying I should be able to bounce the tire the opposite way I did, and get closer to TDC. Or, my other option is to remove the spark plug, and turn the crankshaft the opposite way, thus moving the flywheel backwards to the RT mark.

 

Yep, bouncing the tire in the opposite direction should work (at least I have done it with success).

Moving the rear wheel and cranking the flywheel are doing the same thing- it's all the same gears, just where you're moving them at. So with that said, if you can remove the sparkplugs will definitely make it easier. In both cases there will be less pressure.

 

Hopefully I can do that. If so, then the timing should be a tad easier.

 

Agreed. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the help, BTW. This has been a nightmare replacement.

 

this is awesome, thanks for share for free heheh LOL

 

All done, thanks guys much appreciated...

 

I just bought a Superhawk off some one form this forum, and I am having the same described problem as above...... lurching, and clunking at 3200rpm's as I cruise slowly through my neighborhood. When it warms up, I don't see mto notice it...
Is this a carb issue, or the CCT?
The previous owner did not swap out the CCT ( I ordered some today) he also did not swap out the Rect/reg.
There also seems to be a lot of noise coming from the clutch side..
Thanks

 

carbs. if it was ccts the engine would be toast