View Poll Results: What's the most I should pay for this 2004 SH w/ 3200 miles?
$3000
4
11.11%
$3300
5
13.89%
$3600
4
11.11%
$3900
10
27.78%
$4200
7
19.44%
$4500
4
11.11%
$4800
2
5.56%
Voters: 36. You may not vote on this poll
What to look out for if buying used '04 SH?
03-21-2012, 11:23 PM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 4
What to look out for if buying used '04 SH?
Sup dudes. This is my 1st post, so thanks 1st for letting me pick your brains.
It's highly likely I'll be picking up a used 2004 Superhawk this weekend, and I'd like to know your opinion on what you would look out for if you bought it for yourself. How could I be fairly confident it's not a money pit? Are there any deal-breakers I should watch out for? The dealer salesman told me over the phone it's fully stock, never been down, and is a "9.5 out of 10" in terms of condition. I'm slightly worried that it has so few miles on it (<3500 miles)
Things I will be looking at is tire condition (prob need to be changed anyway), chain condition, signs of fluid leakage, and if it starts up right away.
I just found that another member here is looking at the same bike! I did give them my CC number for a deposit for them to "hold" the bike. The dude said he put a "sold" tag on the motorcycle. Everything was over the phone, nothing was in writing. They haven't charged my CC yet (it's been two full business days). The listing is still up... I did do some phone haggling and they came down quite a bit from their list price of $4799. Still nothing is in writing. I got insurance on the bike this morning and am going to reserve a uhaul tomorrow as well as get a cashier's check and a few hand fulls of $100 bills for negotiating. Do you think they would sell it to someone else after they took my CC info and told me over the phone that they'd hold it for me until I get there this weekend!?
Thanks for the help guys.
It's highly likely I'll be picking up a used 2004 Superhawk this weekend, and I'd like to know your opinion on what you would look out for if you bought it for yourself. How could I be fairly confident it's not a money pit? Are there any deal-breakers I should watch out for? The dealer salesman told me over the phone it's fully stock, never been down, and is a "9.5 out of 10" in terms of condition. I'm slightly worried that it has so few miles on it (<3500 miles)
Things I will be looking at is tire condition (prob need to be changed anyway), chain condition, signs of fluid leakage, and if it starts up right away.
I just found that another member here is looking at the same bike! I did give them my CC number for a deposit for them to "hold" the bike. The dude said he put a "sold" tag on the motorcycle. Everything was over the phone, nothing was in writing. They haven't charged my CC yet (it's been two full business days). The listing is still up... I did do some phone haggling and they came down quite a bit from their list price of $4799. Still nothing is in writing. I got insurance on the bike this morning and am going to reserve a uhaul tomorrow as well as get a cashier's check and a few hand fulls of $100 bills for negotiating. Do you think they would sell it to someone else after they took my CC info and told me over the phone that they'd hold it for me until I get there this weekend!?
Thanks for the help guys.
Last edited by Damm1t; 03-21-2012 at 11:37 PM.
03-21-2012, 11:51 PM
#2
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Afghanistan/Bellingham WA
Posts: 8
Hey there,
I'm the other guy looking at it, I won't try and buy it from under you. It would pretty crappy of them to sell it to someone else anyway if you put a deposit on it. Hope you get it for a good price! Once you get it to the house be sure to post pics!
I'm the other guy looking at it, I won't try and buy it from under you. It would pretty crappy of them to sell it to someone else anyway if you put a deposit on it. Hope you get it for a good price! Once you get it to the house be sure to post pics!
03-22-2012, 12:13 AM
#3
WWTDD
Back Marker
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Everett WA
Posts: 245
Thread Jack Alert.......
I just posted my 2002 hawk for sale ....take a look @ it. very well maintained. Alot of extras provided by forum members. Solid bike.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-3500-a-27835/
I just posted my 2002 hawk for sale ....take a look @ it. very well maintained. Alot of extras provided by forum members. Solid bike.
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-3500-a-27835/
03-22-2012, 12:44 AM
#4
Light Cycle Expert
Back Marker
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 194
Best advice I can give you is with such low mileage check the tank and carbs condition. If it really does have low miles it has probably been sitting. The tank could be rusting from the inside out if not filled all the way. The carbs could be gummed up from sitting as well. Happens easily with the ethanol additives we use now. If they have plastic fuel filters on there the ethanol could have eaten through those as well.
Most stealerships sell their used bikes as is. If they are real shady it's not too hard to get it running just long enough for you to leave the lot. Have them start it up and run for a while to check for leaks and overheating issues. Look at the title and make sure it says actual mileage. Some titles say not actual on them.
Keep in mind that if it is fully stock from 2004 and hasn't been used much it will need new tires, oil, brake fluid, clutch fluid, upgraded R/R, and manual CCTs. If you are doing the work yourself, with the exception of getting the tires mounted, just this alone will cost you roughly $550USD. Maybe a new battery too($60-80USD).
The above is some of your more serious worries and post purchase costs. As far as price, guys correct me if I'm wrong, realize that the SH sells for roughly $3500USD. With it being at a stealership they are going to over price it by a certain percentage to get the most out of it. Chances are they gave the PO $1500-2000USD on a trade in. I would guess if you had cash they'd let it go for about $4K. Typically you take the asking price and knock off 10%. Because it is a stealership you have some more room. The worst that can happen is they say no and you walk away to someplace else.
If you are set on this bike make sure that you negotiate everything you want now! Once you've accepted delivery it's yours. If it were stock stock and had been sitting I'd go with $3,300 max personally if everything else checked out. That give you a purchase price of $3,300 + the $550-610 you'll be dropping into it after you buy it putting you at roughly $3,910.
Oh and when negotiating make sure you say is that the out the door price? Don't agree to something where they can tack on the bullshit tax, tag, title, docking fee, assembly fee, blah blah. If you leave them room they will find a way to get more out of you.
Sorry for the book. Hope some of this information helps. Below is an article on the inspection basics:
Sound Rider How to Guide to Buying a Used Motorcycle, Part 2
Most stealerships sell their used bikes as is. If they are real shady it's not too hard to get it running just long enough for you to leave the lot. Have them start it up and run for a while to check for leaks and overheating issues. Look at the title and make sure it says actual mileage. Some titles say not actual on them.
Keep in mind that if it is fully stock from 2004 and hasn't been used much it will need new tires, oil, brake fluid, clutch fluid, upgraded R/R, and manual CCTs. If you are doing the work yourself, with the exception of getting the tires mounted, just this alone will cost you roughly $550USD. Maybe a new battery too($60-80USD).
The above is some of your more serious worries and post purchase costs. As far as price, guys correct me if I'm wrong, realize that the SH sells for roughly $3500USD. With it being at a stealership they are going to over price it by a certain percentage to get the most out of it. Chances are they gave the PO $1500-2000USD on a trade in. I would guess if you had cash they'd let it go for about $4K. Typically you take the asking price and knock off 10%. Because it is a stealership you have some more room. The worst that can happen is they say no and you walk away to someplace else.
If you are set on this bike make sure that you negotiate everything you want now! Once you've accepted delivery it's yours. If it were stock stock and had been sitting I'd go with $3,300 max personally if everything else checked out. That give you a purchase price of $3,300 + the $550-610 you'll be dropping into it after you buy it putting you at roughly $3,910.
Oh and when negotiating make sure you say is that the out the door price? Don't agree to something where they can tack on the bullshit tax, tag, title, docking fee, assembly fee, blah blah. If you leave them room they will find a way to get more out of you.
Sorry for the book. Hope some of this information helps. Below is an article on the inspection basics:
Sound Rider How to Guide to Buying a Used Motorcycle, Part 2
03-22-2012, 08:31 AM
#5
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: ABE PA
Posts: 423
If I were paying that much for it I wouldn't want to have to replace ****...should have new tires, chain, oil, all that...those are maintenance items they should be replacing before the sale anyway, thus the premium...the more they go down, the less they did. Also check around the speedo cabling, look for tampering...there was another thread on that too...basically some people disconnect the speedo so it doesn't registar milage...no speed either, but who looks at signs? Lol good luck man welcome to the forum
03-22-2012, 08:58 AM
#6
Old and dangerous
SuperSport
SuperSport
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: DFW Texas
Posts: 604
I bought a '98 with 2000 miles on it Dec 30th 2011. It was well taken care of and now has 5000 miles on it. 
These bikes can be fairly bullet proof but do have a few bad spots. If it starts right up and runs well, most of them are not a problem. Check to make sure the signals and brake switches work well. These bikes have problems with the switches getting flaky over the years and needing to be cleaned out. Look for corrosion in the tank, and anywhere to indicate it has been in the weather. Mine has none, and it is almost 15 years old (made 9/97). Once you buy it, there may be a few things you have to do, but these bikes are not really known as money pits. (unless you catch the mod bug)
These bikes can be fairly bullet proof but do have a few bad spots. If it starts right up and runs well, most of them are not a problem. Check to make sure the signals and brake switches work well. These bikes have problems with the switches getting flaky over the years and needing to be cleaned out. Look for corrosion in the tank, and anywhere to indicate it has been in the weather. Mine has none, and it is almost 15 years old (made 9/97). Once you buy it, there may be a few things you have to do, but these bikes are not really known as money pits. (unless you catch the mod bug)
03-22-2012, 09:04 AM
#7
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 700
I could be wrong, but the speedo cable doesn't register the mileage, a small electrical current does. The speedo cable may produce this current, so don't take my word for it.
Print up a few listings of similar bikes for price negotiation, that would be the only other thing I would do in addition to what everyone else said.
Print up a few listings of similar bikes for price negotiation, that would be the only other thing I would do in addition to what everyone else said.
03-23-2012, 08:18 PM
#10
Old and dangerous
SuperSport
SuperSport
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: DFW Texas
Posts: 604
Exactly. Why be an *******. There's a little thing called Karma right around the corner waiting for ***-hats like that.
But I see your point. You personally know someone who has done it, so it's a good thing to beware of.
But I see your point. You personally know someone who has done it, so it's a good thing to beware of.
03-25-2012, 06:21 PM
#12
Light Cycle Expert
Back Marker
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 194
Damm1t did you end up buying that bike? If so for how much?
Last edited by tomzxt; 03-26-2012 at 12:36 AM.
03-25-2012, 11:01 PM
#13
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 4
The stone cold salesman wouldn't budge much. I got it for $4450. Everything looks pretty good on it, but it does smell like gasoline when idling even after warm up. It also hits 200 degrees F or higher after riding around in town (grid of stop signs) for a few minutes. Normal? It also idles around 1000 rpm.
I'm gonna take it to a maintenance shop this week. Any maintenance items you think I should do? They already changed the oil and replaced "all" fluids. Mind you it only has 3200 miles... do I need carb clean? or whatevers?
I'll post pictures soon. THanks guys.
I'm gonna take it to a maintenance shop this week. Any maintenance items you think I should do? They already changed the oil and replaced "all" fluids. Mind you it only has 3200 miles... do I need carb clean? or whatevers?
I'll post pictures soon. THanks guys.
03-26-2012, 12:21 AM
#14
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 1,707
Get the OEM CCT out and replace with Manual CCTs! as they have a nasty habit of grenading and check that the R/R works to spec (though yours should be fine as it will be a later upgraded finned version early versions were prone to failure).
Rear shock and swingarm linkages can seize up (though that is accelerated due to nasty English winters). Shouldn't be a problem if your in a nice dry State but worth stripping and regreasing so you know its done. inspect the starter lead bolt under the rubberhood for corrosion and keep it greased up to keep water out.
Idle is fine like that - but it'll be a tad prone to carb fart stumbles at low speed that can catch you out esp in turns - raise it a notch to 1200 for smooth running. Check the cush drive rubbers out in the rear wheel hub and if necessary replace.
Lastly get a vacuum adapter and hose (blanked off) fitted on the front cylinder for future easy carb balancing - Easy job to do while also fitting the MCCTs.
Rear shock and swingarm linkages can seize up (though that is accelerated due to nasty English winters). Shouldn't be a problem if your in a nice dry State but worth stripping and regreasing so you know its done. inspect the starter lead bolt under the rubberhood for corrosion and keep it greased up to keep water out.
Idle is fine like that - but it'll be a tad prone to carb fart stumbles at low speed that can catch you out esp in turns - raise it a notch to 1200 for smooth running. Check the cush drive rubbers out in the rear wheel hub and if necessary replace.
Lastly get a vacuum adapter and hose (blanked off) fitted on the front cylinder for future easy carb balancing - Easy job to do while also fitting the MCCTs.
Last edited by Wicky; 03-26-2012 at 12:48 AM.
03-26-2012, 12:35 AM
#15
Light Cycle Expert
Back Marker
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 194
The stone cold salesman wouldn't budge much. I got it for $4450. Everything looks pretty good on it, but it does smell like gasoline when idling even after warm up. It also hits 200 degrees F or higher after riding around in town (grid of stop signs) for a few minutes. Normal? It also idles around 1000 rpm.
I'm gonna take it to a maintenance shop this week. Any maintenance items you think I should do? They already changed the oil and replaced "all" fluids. Mind you it only has 3200 miles... do I need carb clean? or whatevers?
I'll post pictures soon. THanks guys.
I'm gonna take it to a maintenance shop this week. Any maintenance items you think I should do? They already changed the oil and replaced "all" fluids. Mind you it only has 3200 miles... do I need carb clean? or whatevers?
I'll post pictures soon. THanks guys.
Engines vary. The normal operating temperature for a modern (e.g., 1996+) automobile engine, manufactured for sale or use in the US, will fall between 200 and 250 degrees F. Smog equipment and computerized combustion control favor a 'hotter' running engine. The proper amount and concentration of coolant in your engine will protect it.
The thermostat plays a big part in controlling it. If you buy a 185 degree thermostat it opens at 185 degrees. Same with a 195 & so on. Average engine temp (as no specific given) would be around 195 - 205 degrees. The cooling fans come on around 210 degrees approx. The temperature will vary according to driving conditions, ambient temperature etc..
What condition are your tires in? Do they still have oil in them enough to stick when making a turn? Tread? Idle is fine around 1K RPM. Mine is set between 1,200 and 1,500 RPM at any given time. Manual says 1,200RPM.
If you need a walkthrough of how to do anything PM me and we can work together over Skype. I'll show you on my bike in real time of how to do stuff.
03-29-2012, 07:43 PM
#16
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 4
I've got the first 100 miles on my new guy. Yeah I know I definitely overpaid for it. I merely justify it to myself by telling myself that $500 or more I overpaid is going to be distributed over at least the two years that I'll own it.... No buyer's remorse so far. I've actually had my heart set on exactly a 2004 superhawk in black with gold wheels since I started riding that year. The salesman also knew I drove 6 hours to get there and he also saw me pull up with a trailer in tow. As promised, here are some pics. The salesman did throw in some flush mount signals to "sweeten" the deal heh
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
popcornchicken
Forum Feedback
7
05-21-2009 05:31 PM
