JayTea

So I finally got aroud to putting a exhaust on my 98 hawk so I could start riding it again I started it put it in gear slowly release the clutch and almost noting the bike still moves under its own power barely... I noticed a while back when I would get on the throttle it would slip a little but nothing like this. So I'm going to replace the clutch I want one that will stand up to the ocasional agressive ride and also have a long life... Any recomendations on what I should get?
Also I'm not sure if I should replace the springs and the steel plates? It has around 18000 miles and I have no idea if anything has been replaced yet

Thanks
Jon

bbancsov

Thats odd, must have had a rough life. Ive got 30k on my stock OEM clutch and havent had any slippage issues yet. I don't see why you wouldnt replace it with another OEM unless your running oodles of power

7moore7

95% of the time the clutch issues on this bike are due to hydraulics. Not likely the plates at all. I'd do a full proper bleed with fresh fluid, and if that doesn't work then rebuild the master cylinder (or just skip and do both). When bleeding, make sure to squeeze the lever a whole bunch to try to work bubbles out of the master- it's easy for them to get caught up in there.

Edit: there are people who ride these bikes hard with 50k+ on them with the OEM clutch.

scottiemann

I have to agree with the other posters, the OEM clutch has absolutely no problem handling the power and handling it well for a long time... if the clutch is the problem or you just want to replace them I would go with OEM.

If you want it a little more aggressive Ive heard Barnett springs are stiffer and will provide a much more aggressive clutch without breaking the bank.

8541Hawk

I still have the stock fibers and plates in mine though I have replaced the springs and at last check I am at 98K

JayTea

Thanks for the info I already took the side cove off so ill check out the hydrolic system and the clutches tomorrow and try to get a better idea of what's going on. I know the bike hasn't had a easy life the previous owner said it was a track bike before he got it

CrankenFine

Closely inspect the master cylinder actuator pin at the bushing on your clutch lever. If it's not fully seated into the recess in the bushing it will maintain slight constant pressure on the clutch causing slippage. ( Don't ask me how I learned this.)

E.Marquez

remove the slave cylinder from the cover, remove the piston, clean out the crud that you will find in there, reassembly using fresh fluid, assembly slave onto cover, fresh fluid in the master, and bleed the system.......

It would take a tremendous amount of clutch slipping to wear it out... Track use would not do that, common street use would not do that....

Faulty slave or master cylinder could, incorrect assembly could, many...MANY miles or a use like as a trainer bike for years might.

JayTea

Is it possable that a problem with the master cyl not releasing properly and causing the clutch to slip and wear?

twist

while on the subject of drive train....what is the expected life of the cush drive rubbers? I read somewhere that 8,000 mi is the replacement mark. If that's so, I'm waayyyy over due! (sorry if this is hijacking the thread)

JayTea

I wouldn't be too worried about it unless your getting essesive play on you crush drive

jerryh

I replaced them on a bike I had about 60k on and couldn't feel the difference

wyldryce