Rear stands
#1
Rear stands
I am making a couple rear stands. I will post a pic tonight. If anyone is interested I will sell a couple next week. I am experimenting with an axle mount and a axle nut mount. It will probably be around 70.00 shipped.
#3
After playing with it, I soon decided to have a swing arm mount. I bought some pegs to drill in but I am going to make the stands so no peg is needed. Its almost done. It is going to be adjustable in and out and should work for many bikes. Thanks
#5
#8
I've built about 4 now for the VTR.. I kept one, one went to Nuhawk the others i shipped to folks on another list. . $5 in steel, $2 in wheels, $2 in fasteners, $4 in paint, piece of used mountain bike tire and an old handle bar grip.
#9
Show us some pics Love to see what other folks are building
#13
Good luck with those harbor frieght jobs. I got finished with one but could not take it home to take a pic given I ride to work every day. Some posted pics of theirs. This looks much the same except there are no welds on the angles given i used a tube bender. The bend is 105 degrees allowing the stand to be very stable due to the backward force. I will try to get them up tomorrow.
#14
#15
Cheap alterrnative even if you're a renter - strongback in the garage ceiling with eyebolts above your work area. I tore apart the Superhawk and the Interceptor by hanging the bike from the ceiling and using jacks.
#19
My take on it... https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...11&postcount=1
Makes a front stand completely redundant and it's easy to use on your own...
http://www.werner-staender.de/wernerMQ.wmv
Makes a front stand completely redundant and it's easy to use on your own...
http://www.werner-staender.de/wernerMQ.wmv
Last edited by Tweety; 09-30-2010 at 08:26 AM.
#20
I added braces to the other ones cuz I was asked to by the buyers.. It does not need them, but was an extra 5 min to add um,, so I did.
#21
My take on it... https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...11&postcount=1
Makes a front stand completely redundant and it's easy to use on your own...
http://www.werner-staender.de/wernerMQ.wmv
Makes a front stand completely redundant and it's easy to use on your own...
http://www.werner-staender.de/wernerMQ.wmv
#22
Tweet's idea is a good one to work on the bike, but for track purposes or quick needs, the other options are better. My only issue with deiss44's original post is that 70 bucks is pricy when I can get 2 at HF for that much considering how they've been advertising discount coupons in MC rags these days. With a 20% off coupon, that puts the price at $32 plus tax.
#23
You can't beat 32 bux....
#24
I posted the first post not knowing how much it would be to make one of these things and how long it would take me. As most of you said $70.00 is too high for sure. But who can beat 32 bucks after you pay for the material and your time. I have yet to post pics but will this weekend. I made a rear that takes after flattrack stands and a front that resembles road race stands. They both work great. If anyone wants one, front or rear after the pics are posted, just let me know. They will not be as cheap as harbor freight, but maybe 75.00 for the set or 40 each. When I post the pics let me know what you all think.
I really like the center stand idea but I can't figure out where a good mounting spot would be. If anyone has any ideas I can try it. I have a weld/machine shop at my disposal so anything is possible.
I really like the center stand idea but I can't figure out where a good mounting spot would be. If anyone has any ideas I can try it. I have a weld/machine shop at my disposal so anything is possible.
Last edited by deiss44; 10-01-2010 at 06:43 AM.
#25
Nah, I just use a wood block under the oilsump instead... Then I can take of the forks...
Actually... The way I did it, using a 17 mm socket on one side, and a "spike" on the other, and then adjusted them and drilled holes for a locking clip, you don't need to adjust them... Just stick the one in, lock it, put tension on it and lock the other...
I made an pdf with the measurements, I translated the text to english for you... BTW since it confused some Swedish VTR owners, the stand is "backwards" in the image... The "handle" will be on the same side as the kickstand, pointing at the front wheel... That way it's rock stable, and easy to use...
I made an pdf with the measurements, I translated the text to english for you... BTW since it confused some Swedish VTR owners, the stand is "backwards" in the image... The "handle" will be on the same side as the kickstand, pointing at the front wheel... That way it's rock stable, and easy to use...
Last edited by Tweety; 10-01-2010 at 07:16 AM.
#26
#27
Take a look at the links Tweety posted. These are much more useful than front or rear stands.
#28
Tweet's idea is a good one to work on the bike, but for track purposes or quick needs, the other options are better. My only issue with deiss44's original post is that 70 bucks is pricy when I can get 2 at HF for that much considering how they've been advertising discount coupons in MC rags these days. With a 20% off coupon, that puts the price at $32 plus tax.
But like you said, this makes it much easier to work on the bike, no stands to trip over, and you can like I said using a block of wood or a floorjack under the sump remove the forks and the swingarm without any other support...
#29
BTW the measurements I have in the PDF is pretty model specific as the VTR has no good connection points besides those motor bolts... I made it to be as close to the bike as possible, to keep the bending forces at a minimum... So if you have a lower, you might want to adjust the width at the top a bit...
But it works just fine for a lot of other bikes, just make the uprights lower and measure out a decent height for the holes and use some other studs for that particular bike...
The leaning upright is that way to make room for the sidestand... This way it clears the stand and you can keep it out for quick jobs, not forgetting it once going down... Or pop it in for longer work...
But it works just fine for a lot of other bikes, just make the uprights lower and measure out a decent height for the holes and use some other studs for that particular bike...
The leaning upright is that way to make room for the sidestand... This way it clears the stand and you can keep it out for quick jobs, not forgetting it once going down... Or pop it in for longer work...
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