vtrgeoff

General WOTL is to avoid the Dynojet and use the Factory jet kit.

Unless you are mechanicly adept, the WOTL is to avoid the K&N as well. There is no real savings ($$) over the stock filter....I am on #2 in 7 years and 120,000km. I use the OEM oil filter and replace it two or three times per season.

I am running V&H S4 slipons with the OEM air filter, PAIR blocked off, main jets: +2 fr/+1 rr, stock pilot (45) jet and the Factory needle (middle slot). Mixture screws @ 2.5 turns out from gentle stop. Idles strong and easy @ 1200rpm. Backfiring (very rarely) on the over run when air temp is hot (30C +) or when carbs are out of sync.

Lights up easy with enricher, idles almost immediately without it.

On a good day I'll get 180km before RLOD with around 50-60 km reserve.

Other than that, it's grin & go.

Geoff in Almonte
99VTR

vtrgeoff

OOPS!!

Main Jets are +1 Front and +2 Rear.

Sorry

G

Hawkrider

Wow, Geoff, "WOTL"...I haven't seen that for ages. Of course, now I guess it should be "WOTF"?

For those that don't have a clue what I'm talking about, WOTL stands for Wisdom of the List. Us "old-timers" came up with it back in the day that this was an email list - no forums for us, thank you.

WOTF would be Wisdom of the Forum now that it has evolved.

Alan

I'm glad you cleared that up cos i didnt know WTF you was talking about

mikstr

"General WOTL is to avoid the Dynojet and use the Factory jet kit"

Not sure where you got this info. Quite a few members (myself included) are running the DJ kit and are quite happy with it.

shayne

Ditto for the K&N filter. I was able to get my engine running smoothly with it. Whether it allows more air in or not is often debated.

I have run a larger filter than the K&N (considerably larger) and ran into trouble with the carby slides fluctuating, and giving problems at part throttle. WOT gave an extra 5hp, but it was less streetable.

Going to a K&N fixed the problem.

Hawkrider

The Factory is easier to tune. Not necessarily better or worse. Same goes for the K&N. It's possible, just takes more time and thought.

vtrgeoff

I didn't say that a Dynojet kit wouldn't work, nor did I say that a K&N was a bad thing.

My understanding of the Dynojet stuff was that you were forced to make non-reversable modifications to the carbs (drilling slides, etc) when the kit was installed.

I bought the Factory Stage 1 kit, and ended up using only the needle and some larger main jets. And of course the little mixture screw adjustment tool.

The K&N is expensive to buy ($130CDN), and the time spent messing with jetting, dyno runs, etc soon adds up! The original K&N for the Firestorm did not have the little air dam in front of the carb inlet and that caused a lot of tuning grief. My understanding is that the newer K&N's come with the dam (similar to the OEM filter). My point was that the potential for large expenditures in return for negligible HP returns, for me, was too large. The OEM filter is only $70CDN and works great.

As always, YMMV

Geoff in Almonte
99VTR

jschmidt

I can't think of a single bike with a modern airbox that really benefits from a K&N Filter unless its been radically modified. I'm sure there must be one, but I can't think of it.

It's one of those products (like a fork brace) that has outlived its need.

SuperHawkins

I'm running a K+N, removed air snorkel, and slipons and the bike runs great. Idles a little screwy and cold-starts have become tricky....but it cruises just fine and only has one hiccup in the 5000 rpm range and then proceeds to make the front-end very very light.... Makes one hell of a mean sound out of the airbox too Still has abundant low-end, only goes flat for maybe a 500 rpm gap.
No jet kit done here, I'm quite surprised it runs as well as it does. I'm sure that if the airbox were subjected to any sort of 'ram' effect or cross-flow, it'd be all fubar.....but it seems to intake in a pretty calm spot.

Edit: I bought the K+N before reading up on it versus the stock filter....but I did get a good deal on it, and I decided to throw it in when I found my stock filter was torn and coming apart. Had to replace it before the carbs pulled any of the media in.

Stumpy

I have no problems with my K&N but it was dyno tuned in Madison WI by Motorcycle Performance but along with that you have to sync the carbs and then resync at least one time every year. I did the mod that I found on this forum by puting a t in one line and the brass tap in the front cyl and runing the lines to one spot for fast hook up. It rocks imho. o by the way you do have to drill with the dyno kit. tryed one shop before motorcyle perf and they installed it.
ran like **** backfire all kinds of bad stuff. also the tps was off. did that mod with some others at same time so have no coment on if it ran better or worse just becouse of it alone. but with the dyno kit the bike still runs great just have to tune on a dyno imho worth the cash.
But with that said I being a machanic for most of my life untill I found a easyer way no one will get it just right if you do not do it yourself with the fine tuning. You can not simulate driving on the dyno but you know it will work close when done.

mikstr

I love my fork brace, the front end feels more rigid and planted... sorry Jim I agree that modern sportbikes (with the big honkin' USD forks likely don't need it but the VTR is not so equipped)

Hawkrider

+1 on the fork brace.