How do I tell if my SH is jetted ? Kid who had it befor me does not know.

Its a 98 hawk. Two brothers slip on's

Took the tank off, it has stock honda air filter.

One friend on mine road it said he wasnt sure. Another one did and said yes.

Runns well at idle, well under way as well. Not sure to tell. Any info would be great.

 

Are the needles adjustable (e or c clip grooves) or does it look more like a nail with a large head?

 

I don't think that it's easy without getting into the carbs. You "may" be able to tell if it's a DynoJet kit by pushing the carb slides back to see how many holes are in the bottom. These are the two black slides that are in the channels that the airbox attaches to. Push the black thing up... Stock carbs have three holes, the middle one has a long needle going through it. A dynojet kit setup will have an extra one drilled in the slide.

You can see the two black slides in the circular holes here (just put your finger in them and slide them back:





Other than that, you'll have take them apart a little and inspect the needles and slide springs. Jet kits have adjustable needles:


Stock jets use these needles:

And the slides have 2 holes+one needle hole:

 

If it runs well throughout the rev range, why worry about it.

Check it out next time you clean the carbs.

 

I just got it two weeks ago. New to the bike thing

I just picked up a k&n air filter off here.

When I go to put it away for the winter I was going to have it jetted if it is not already. Thats why I was asking to see. Is there a big difference between a jeted and non bike?

I was also told if you get new exaust then you have to jet it. Is this true or a myth ?

 

A) May want to read this thread:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-set-up-24769/

B) Not usually necessary to use a jet with with new exhaust (on this bike)

C) There is a difference in jetting with stock/K&N filter switch.

 

So if I do the k&n filter switch. I have to have a jetted carb. Or do I just need to adjust it ?

 

K&N air filters typically don't work well with Jetted carbs.

 

Is that why there are a few for sale on here ?

The prob is, im not sure if it is or not.

If I have stock carb. I can just drop it in or do I have some adjusting to do ?

Sorry im on my phone and just thinking about all this on my down time at work. Thanks everyone for help

 

K&N air filters lean out the fuel mixture more than slip-on exhaust. And yes, that is probably why guys are dumping them. Your carbs can be set up to run with a K&N, but unless you're planning on doing a lot of track riding, it's probably not worth the trouble it would give you.

 

stock one seems like it should need a change. so i got a good deal on the one i picked up off here. is there a after market one i can get as a drop in ?

im just driving on roads. no tracks anywhere around here for hours... lol

as i am putting it away for the winter, could i send it to the bike shop and have my local shop take care of it ?

seems the more i get into this, i just want to take the air compressor and blow out the stock filter and call it a day. more trouble then i would think

this is my first bike and i have no clue about these things but have limited time to search around here on the forum.

 

You can just drop the k&n in and ride off. I did. It isnt ideal as stated but my bike runs great like this. It isnt a huge job to put the k&n in, so if you do it you can always switch back. See how it runs. You would have to dismantle the carbs somewhat to get the needles out to see if its jetted (which means it has a jet kit installed). If it runs well now just try the k&n & see how it is. Jetting is a good way for mechanics to take your money when you dont even need it.

 

The filteris on its way. When it gets here im gonna drop it in and go from there

How long should it take to take apart the carb to see if it has been jetted ?

 

The first time..... well plan on a couple of hours. If you've done it, well lets just say that I can do the complete job in around 45 mins.

 

Yeah, exactly, like any mechanical job the second time is exponetially easier. Take your time and if in doubt, take pictures along the way to help remember stuff. Spend a couple nights on here searching for threads that will show you what to do. The trumpets on the carbs in the airbox are different lengths, so dont switch them. Pay attention to the hoses coming off the tank too.

 

Unless you have carb experience, it can be a somewhat daunting task, and you really want to dyno tune to get the best results from carb changes. Doing seat-of-the-pants checking of carb changes does not tell you how rich or lean it's running across the RPM range. Unless you really want to learn how, I'd suggest taking it to a local shop and have them dial it in for you.

I can also tell you that for general street riding, it's ONLY an ego thing to make intake and carb changes. The gains you get will amount to approximately 5% increases. For most of us, that's not enough to make a difference. Learning to ride the bike at it's peak of performance gives you far more gain. That's why I say it's mostly an ego thing.

Just my humble opinion.

 

Also only do one at a time as the needles, emulsion tubes and main jets are different between the front and rear carb.