Hesitation at launch/open throttle
#1
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 677
Hesitation at launch/open throttle
So, one of my fuel lines broke and I replaced it. I had to remover the airbox for access. When I put it all back together I now have a lag when I open the throttle. I took it apart again yesterday to look for a vacuum line off or a misplaced aibox, o-ring gasket, anything! I found nothing but the problem is still there. One thing I noticed as I had a problem in the past is, the rear carb slide seems to close faster than the front. It is hardly noticable but it is slightly quicker. The thing is, when that was a problem before, it quit at higher rpm and the throttle didn't have to be open, or even blipped. This is not the time to have a problem, the bike WAS running great before the fuel line broke!
Last edited by ranchomice; 05-26-2010 at 12:18 PM.
#2
Not trying to make you have to lift the tank again but when Cornandp and I did my carbs we noticed that the hose that goes from the carb to the bottom of the airbox on the front carb was not seated all the way causing a air leak. Just something to double check. Sorry not a carb guru. Hope that helps a little bit.
Philip
Philip
#4
Also check out the the hose connection photo in the KB. Hopefully this is something simple.
#6
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 677
I never turned the gas tank off, there's no need as it only dumps gas under vacuum. Yes i hooked the vacuum line back up to the petcock or it wouldn't run at all. Didn't find photo of hose connection but I'm nearly positive nothing changed there, I did it the way it was when I removed.
Last edited by ranchomice; 05-27-2010 at 02:59 PM.
#7
I never turned the gas tank off, there's no need as it only dumps gas under vacuum. Yes i hooked the vacuum line back up to the petcock or it wouldn't run at all. Didn't find photo of hose connection but I'm nearly positive nothing changed there, I did it the way it was when I removed.
The pic: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=22048
And the thing to notice is there is not supposed to be any line connected to the bottom of the petcock. If you hook the vacuum line there (instead of to the harder to reach one on the right side) it will not run right.
This is so easy to do that we have named it: PVLIR (petcock vacuum line inadvertent relocation)
It may or may not have anything to do with your problem, but is an easy thing to check.
#10
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 677
I have a stock air filter with under 4k. I recently replaced those triangular filters as they were very degraded from sitting so long. I will have to check those but I would imagine them being like 3 weeks old, they're probably fine. I'm starting to wonder if maybe debris got into the gas line/system when the fuel line broke. I'm lost! I'm also wondering if the block off installed on the large port at the bottom of the air box is cracked through, creating a leak there.
#12
Weird shaped o-rings on top of carbs in place?
Really just throwing things out there.... could be tons of stuff.
When you changed out the fuel line, was it to the carb that is having the issue?
Did you use the stk Honda fuel line? If you didn't you may need to check that line to see that it is not kinked or something.... The oem line is pre-formed and holds it's shape. It's not supple like some bulk fuel line from the auto parts store, others don't bend well and you may not be getting the flow to the carb? Seems as if there should be enough fuel in the bowl to handle a quick throttle change and not hesitate or stumble.
Just some ideas...
Really just throwing things out there.... could be tons of stuff.
When you changed out the fuel line, was it to the carb that is having the issue?
Did you use the stk Honda fuel line? If you didn't you may need to check that line to see that it is not kinked or something.... The oem line is pre-formed and holds it's shape. It's not supple like some bulk fuel line from the auto parts store, others don't bend well and you may not be getting the flow to the carb? Seems as if there should be enough fuel in the bowl to handle a quick throttle change and not hesitate or stumble.
Just some ideas...
#13
Some folks have remedied a hesitation with the TPS out of spec. see knowlege base for repair. I would not know why it would get out of spec out of the blue, electrical stuff can be just magical sometimes.
Not to steer you off course, think I would first turn over stones in the area you had your hands on first....Fuel line and related area...
Not to steer you off course, think I would first turn over stones in the area you had your hands on first....Fuel line and related area...
#14
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 677
Weird shaped o-rings on top of carbs in place?
Really just throwing things out there.... could be tons of stuff.
When you changed out the fuel line, was it to the carb that is having the issue?
Did you use the stk Honda fuel line? If you didn't you may need to check that line to see that it is not kinked or something.... The oem line is pre-formed and holds it's shape. It's not supple like some bulk fuel line from the auto parts store, others don't bend well and you may not be getting the flow to the carb? Seems as if there should be enough fuel in the bowl to handle a quick throttle change and not hesitate or stumble.
Just some ideas...
Really just throwing things out there.... could be tons of stuff.
When you changed out the fuel line, was it to the carb that is having the issue?
Did you use the stk Honda fuel line? If you didn't you may need to check that line to see that it is not kinked or something.... The oem line is pre-formed and holds it's shape. It's not supple like some bulk fuel line from the auto parts store, others don't bend well and you may not be getting the flow to the carb? Seems as if there should be enough fuel in the bowl to handle a quick throttle change and not hesitate or stumble.
Just some ideas...
Last edited by ranchomice; 05-27-2010 at 11:05 PM.
#15
I have a stock air filter with under 4k. I recently replaced those triangular filters as they were very degraded from sitting so long. I will have to check those but I would imagine them being like 3 weeks old, they're probably fine. I'm starting to wonder if maybe debris got into the gas line/system when the fuel line broke. I'm lost! I'm also wondering if the block off installed on the large port at the bottom of the air box is cracked through, creating a leak there.
JB
#16
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 677
Carbs were done about 2 months ago by Mike8541hawk. Then about 2 weeks ago he put new #48 pilots in them as I got new exhaust. The bike ran better than ever until the fuel line broke. The slides move freely, in fact, the rear slide may be moving (closing) TOO freely. That may be the next thing I check. B4 I take it apart, I'll try the wd-40 spray to check for leaks. I'm wondering if riding the bike about 1/4 mi. with a broken fuel line caused debris to be introduced?
#17
The only other thing I can think of is maybe you have developed a pin hole or crack in the diaphragm. It is kind of rare for it to happen but there is or was a lot of dry rot on the rest of the rubber lines.
Sorry I don't have a easy answer for you but you have eliminated just about all the other possible causes for your problem.
Sorry I don't have a easy answer for you but you have eliminated just about all the other possible causes for your problem.
#19
I don't have any special knowledge or insights here, but common sense says either the new fuel line is faulty (unlikely) or one of the hoses or tubes you disconnected didn't get reconnected properly or might be damaged.
I'd check the tube from the rear vacuum nipple to the petcock- make sure it isn't kinked, torn etc.
I'd check the fuel tank breather hose for same.
I'd check those fat stubby air hoses that run from the carb joints into the air box, especially the front/left one inboard of the front crankcase breather hose.
Just can't imagine what it might be other than a hose missed when you put it back together.
I'd check the tube from the rear vacuum nipple to the petcock- make sure it isn't kinked, torn etc.
I'd check the fuel tank breather hose for same.
I'd check those fat stubby air hoses that run from the carb joints into the air box, especially the front/left one inboard of the front crankcase breather hose.
Just can't imagine what it might be other than a hose missed when you put it back together.
#20
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 677
Front carb fuel line broke. When we put the pilot jets in, it broke upon dissassembly making it a bit short. It had dry rot but we made it work to get me home etc. My guess is, it was too short, vibrated for a week and split where it met the petcock while I was riding it. RK1, i checked and rechecked everything. Next step is to spray some WD-40 around while it's running to see if I can find a vacuum leak. Aside from that, I'll be checking the slide diaphram.
#21
I think the chance that something unrelated to you pulling the tank and air box just happened to go south at the exact time that you pulled the tank and air box is pretty remote, but I guess it is possible.
Best of luck. I hope you can sort it out.
Best of luck. I hope you can sort it out.
#23
#24
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 677
So I took the bike out for a ride yesterday just to keep the battery charged and such. I haven't taken it apart or even looked for vacuum leaks yet again. I've been really depressed about the bike, to be honest. Anyway, I took it out on the freeway for about 20 miles and when I got off the freeway I decided to crack the throttle and see how she acted from a stop. The bike launched like it should and came up nice and normal. WTF?? It rode great until I got to my destination, as if nothing was wrong. Got back on it after an hour or so, rode back up the freeway and again, things seemed pretty normal. I got almost home and decided to crack the throttle at about 40mph in 4th or 5th and it did the hesitation thing again. It seemed at that point that it only did it under heavy throttle under heavy load at low rpm. I don't know if this changes anyone's thoughts but thought I'd share.
Anybody ever had a problem with a choke? I'm not talking about the usual break at the plastic thread entering the carb, I'm talking about what seems a loose cable at the elbow. The choke being pulled sends the needle in, or out?
Anybody ever had a problem with a choke? I'm not talking about the usual break at the plastic thread entering the carb, I'm talking about what seems a loose cable at the elbow. The choke being pulled sends the needle in, or out?
#26
did you ever figure out what was causing the closing differentiation between the two carbs? pull it apart again to check gasket and inspect diaphram?
other than this, maybe a dyno run could be enlightening. Sometimes things seem to occur consequentially, as with your gas line change, but maybe you just hadn't got on the throttle in the exactly the same way that highlighted the issue.
Steve29 had the kind of hestiation you describe and we screwed around with needle position, air mix, tps, syncing, etc. Oh and that reminds me, the rubber o-ring in his carb slide was cracked/deterioated. maybe you could pull yours off and inspect it?
other than this, maybe a dyno run could be enlightening. Sometimes things seem to occur consequentially, as with your gas line change, but maybe you just hadn't got on the throttle in the exactly the same way that highlighted the issue.
Steve29 had the kind of hestiation you describe and we screwed around with needle position, air mix, tps, syncing, etc. Oh and that reminds me, the rubber o-ring in his carb slide was cracked/deterioated. maybe you could pull yours off and inspect it?
#27
Rancho - in any case, pull the carbs off, inspect, clean, replace where needed. It all points to those two huge devices.
#28
Senior Member
SuperSport
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Rancho Cordova, California
Posts: 677
So I still haven't taken the bike apart and I ride it very short distances maybe every other day just to keeo it charged. I noticed today that once it's started, with the choke out, it will actually drop in rpm and eventually die. It want's to run better and keep an idle, even cold, with the choke in. What the heck is that? Will the bike have the previously mentioned symptoms, as well as these, if a choke was stuck in, or if it was running super rich?
#29
I think I'm having a similar problem. However, my problem didn't start after taking the tank off or replacing anything on the bike. I let my dumb friend put his hands on my bike, and while she was a little cold and on choke he decided to give it a few good revs, and then I turned it off and went back inside for a few hours. When I go to leave I get the hesitation seemingly like the bike is getting flooded. I make it to my next destination and then a couple hours later I leave and the bike runs fine. That was a week ago and since then my bike has developed mood swings and will randomly bog down while I'm cruising, bad enough to where I have to pull over and the bike will shut off. Whilst I am on the side of the road I'm able to play with the choke and idle and she will magically spring back to life... it's very confusing.
Last edited by striker3034; 06-12-2010 at 07:09 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post