Got a free pass from the Moto Gods
#1
Got a free pass from the Moto Gods
I want to fully understand what happened and why. I really want to learn from this as I never want to come close to this on the street again.
Just finishing an S turn to the left and I encounter a radar trap (no indication of radar signal, but going fast enough to get noticed). I'm still leaned over some just past the apex, I over react a bit and get on the front brakes a little too abruptly. Apparently not hard enough to low side, but I'm not really conscious of everything as it was happening, although I do remember the tire(s) howling. The bike then instantly stands up and I get a very scary tank slapper. I really thought I was going to go down. I did not, the cop must have been looking elsewhere so I got to go home and wash my pants.
I drove by a little latter that morning and there was a 5' long skid mark right where the fun started.
So after thinking about it for a day and a half I've concluded that I was on the rear brake (too hard) and locked the rear wheel, the rear stepped out and when I regained traction I almost high sided. Does analysis sound right?
The other question is about the strange marks on the front tire. I'm guessing they are a result of the tank slapper. I think I should check the wheel alignment. This is new to me so tell me what you think. The tire is rubbed pretty good leading up to a faint patch of red (I'm guessing Italian Red), two cuts with a thin tag of rubber on one of them, followed by a silvery smear. It is on the left side of the front tire. Did the tire and forks flex enough to make contact? Like I said I want to learn from this so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Just finishing an S turn to the left and I encounter a radar trap (no indication of radar signal, but going fast enough to get noticed). I'm still leaned over some just past the apex, I over react a bit and get on the front brakes a little too abruptly. Apparently not hard enough to low side, but I'm not really conscious of everything as it was happening, although I do remember the tire(s) howling. The bike then instantly stands up and I get a very scary tank slapper. I really thought I was going to go down. I did not, the cop must have been looking elsewhere so I got to go home and wash my pants.
I drove by a little latter that morning and there was a 5' long skid mark right where the fun started.
So after thinking about it for a day and a half I've concluded that I was on the rear brake (too hard) and locked the rear wheel, the rear stepped out and when I regained traction I almost high sided. Does analysis sound right?
The other question is about the strange marks on the front tire. I'm guessing they are a result of the tank slapper. I think I should check the wheel alignment. This is new to me so tell me what you think. The tire is rubbed pretty good leading up to a faint patch of red (I'm guessing Italian Red), two cuts with a thin tag of rubber on one of them, followed by a silvery smear. It is on the left side of the front tire. Did the tire and forks flex enough to make contact? Like I said I want to learn from this so any help would be greatly appreciated.
#4
well it seems you didnt get over your chicken strip, so my guess is cold tires (?) and some sharp weight shifting (S turn and hard braking). With these marks on the front tire I dont think you locked the rear, there are many ways the rear can step out, locking -imho- is by far the most controllable and memorable. Looks like the front lost traction first, then regained, resulting in the tank slap.
#5
well it seems you didnt get over your chicken strip, so my guess is cold tires (?) and some sharp weight shifting (S turn and hard braking). With these marks on the front tire I dont think you locked the rear, there are many ways the rear can step out, locking -imho- is by far the most controllable and memorable. Looks like the front lost traction first, then regained, resulting in the tank slap.
surprise situations. I need to work on the forks as well.
#7
I don't think that the caliper is to blame. I have been practicing hard braking (straight line) from speed trying to develop feel for impending lock-up and the brakes feel like they are functioning normally. That's good advice and worth a check. I also am going to check the wheel/fork alignment.
I want to do some track days.
#8
You were on the rear brake mid corner? I would stop that practice.
Is your bike stock? Is there anything else to rub against at full lock and bottomed out?
You can for sure lock the front and keep going. I have done it often. The trick is to form the habit of doing a grab and release of the front brake to let it regrab.
And moto gods? If its truth you seek, then I would be thanking the one true God.
I would check tire pressure. Hard tires slide much easier. The hardest trick in riding is NOT tensing up in these moments. Stay loose on the bike and avoid harsh inputs (including chopping the throttle). Counter intuitive but vital to stay upright.
Sounds like you coulda slid both ends. You should avoid that too.
Is your bike stock? Is there anything else to rub against at full lock and bottomed out?
You can for sure lock the front and keep going. I have done it often. The trick is to form the habit of doing a grab and release of the front brake to let it regrab.
And moto gods? If its truth you seek, then I would be thanking the one true God.
I would check tire pressure. Hard tires slide much easier. The hardest trick in riding is NOT tensing up in these moments. Stay loose on the bike and avoid harsh inputs (including chopping the throttle). Counter intuitive but vital to stay upright.
Sounds like you coulda slid both ends. You should avoid that too.
#9
You were on the rear brake mid corner? I would stop that practice.
Is your bike stock? Is there anything else to rub against at full lock and bottomed out?
You can for sure lock the front and keep going. I have done it often. The trick is to form the habit of doing a grab and release of the front brake to let it regrab.
And moto gods? If its truth you seek, then I would be thanking the one true God.
I would check tire pressure. Hard tires slide much easier. The hardest trick in riding is NOT tensing up in these moments. Stay loose on the bike and avoid harsh inputs (including chopping the throttle). Counter intuitive but vital to stay upright.
Sounds like you coulda slid both ends. You should avoid that too.
Is your bike stock? Is there anything else to rub against at full lock and bottomed out?
You can for sure lock the front and keep going. I have done it often. The trick is to form the habit of doing a grab and release of the front brake to let it regrab.
And moto gods? If its truth you seek, then I would be thanking the one true God.
I would check tire pressure. Hard tires slide much easier. The hardest trick in riding is NOT tensing up in these moments. Stay loose on the bike and avoid harsh inputs (including chopping the throttle). Counter intuitive but vital to stay upright.
Sounds like you coulda slid both ends. You should avoid that too.
The turn is gradual enough that at the speed I was going, 70+/- there is no need to brake. The only time I use a small amount rear brake is just before applying the front to help keep the rear from jacking up as much. It is a technique that is suggested in a book by Nick Ienatsch. He does state that the use of this method is controversial.
Since I have had time to think this out, and the feed back I've received, it seems unlikely in the panic situation I put my self in I would have even touched the rear brake at all. I think that I just jerked the front lever. That simple. Smooth I was not. I feel very fourtunate not have crashed, especially right in front of the local LEO.
I appreciate the input. It has helped sort this out in my head.
#10
regardless of the reasons why it happened, there is no way there is enough give inbetween the wheel and the fender to rub like that, especially on a worn tire. Check your front bearing, check spacers, check everything that bolts together in the front and make sure it's right. I checked mine after looking at that picture, and have more than 1/2" of space. Plus, forks compress above the fender and wouldn't change there space. Especially on the side like that, it looks like it might be a spacing issue which would make me start with anything related to that front axle. Please look over it thoroughly...I'm sure that was scary as hell.
#11
regardless of the reasons why it happened, there is no way there is enough give inbetween the wheel and the fender to rub like that, especially on a worn tire. Check your front bearing, check spacers, check everything that bolts together in the front and make sure it's right. I checked mine after looking at that picture, and have more than 1/2" of space. Plus, forks compress above the fender and wouldn't change there space. Especially on the side like that, it looks like it might be a spacing issue which would make me start with anything related to that front axle. Please look over it thoroughly...I'm sure that was scary as hell.
#12
regardless of the reasons why it happened, there is no way there is enough give inbetween the wheel and the fender to rub like that, especially on a worn tire. Check your front bearing, check spacers, check everything that bolts together in the front and make sure it's right. I checked mine after looking at that picture, and have more than 1/2" of space. Plus, forks compress above the fender and wouldn't change there space. Especially on the side like that, it looks like it might be a spacing issue which would make me start with anything related to that front axle. Please look over it thoroughly...I'm sure that was scary as hell.
You were lucky. Sometimes, when you get in over your head, you land on your head.
Like this, for instance:
http://asdfghjkl.me.uk/files/kid.mp4
Like this, for instance:
http://asdfghjkl.me.uk/files/kid.mp4
#13
Just a follow up.
While I was riding over to my shop to pull the wheel off and inspect, I noticed that the alignment marks on the yoke and frame were out.
I don't have V blocks or a dial indicator so I had to eyeball the runout on the axle. Not very precise as spec is .20 mm. Nothing obvious there. No marks on the axle or spacers. Put the wheel on my balancer to check run out on the wheel (made a makeshift indicator) that showed to be near perfect. Without a dial indicator I have no value, but I would say that the whole assembly is still in spec. The rub marks on the tire were from the fender alone. It was about 3" along the outside edge.
Reset the the steering alignment and went for a ride. The feel in the bars seemed to be more neutral. This could just be placebo effect as the bike always feels faster and smoother after an oil change, detailing, new turn signals, etc.
While I was riding over to my shop to pull the wheel off and inspect, I noticed that the alignment marks on the yoke and frame were out.
I don't have V blocks or a dial indicator so I had to eyeball the runout on the axle. Not very precise as spec is .20 mm. Nothing obvious there. No marks on the axle or spacers. Put the wheel on my balancer to check run out on the wheel (made a makeshift indicator) that showed to be near perfect. Without a dial indicator I have no value, but I would say that the whole assembly is still in spec. The rub marks on the tire were from the fender alone. It was about 3" along the outside edge.
Reset the the steering alignment and went for a ride. The feel in the bars seemed to be more neutral. This could just be placebo effect as the bike always feels faster and smoother after an oil change, detailing, new turn signals, etc.
#15
Good advice here. After getting back on a bike after a decade on 4 wheels, I notice I have a bad habit of grabbing too much front brake. Being an uncoordinated slob, I have to force myself to practice the old gentle squeeze.
#16
FYI, the point is that a tire will take twice the load if the load is gradual. You can kick a tire sideways but would not be able to push it.
As you apply brake,(front) the front end loads up and thus has more available traction (way more).
When you hamfist it, you can lock it cuz very little weight has transfered so little traction.
Same goes in cornering.
As you apply brake,(front) the front end loads up and thus has more available traction (way more).
When you hamfist it, you can lock it cuz very little weight has transfered so little traction.
Same goes in cornering.
#17
Why then even post a snuff video that is in such bad taste? A fellow biker suffers a huge loss and you procreate that evil by posting it? Thats just really bad kharma. Good luck with that.
I wont even watch crash vids since there are things you can't un-see. You will reproduce that in your head on some dark rainy night instead of correct riding.
Ask yourself why you would watch those & try to come up with a good answer. It train-wreck lowest common denominator trash.
Watch world superbike to see it done at amazing levels. Then you will reproduce that since that positivity fills your head.
I wont even watch crash vids since there are things you can't un-see. You will reproduce that in your head on some dark rainy night instead of correct riding.
Ask yourself why you would watch those & try to come up with a good answer. It train-wreck lowest common denominator trash.
Watch world superbike to see it done at amazing levels. Then you will reproduce that since that positivity fills your head.
#18
Thanks for the input Joe.
The turn is gradual enough that at the speed I was going, 70+/- there is no need to brake. The only time I use a small amount rear brake is just before applying the front to help keep the rear from jacking up as much. It is a technique that is suggested in a book by Nick Ienatsch. He does state that the use of this method is controversial.
Since I have had time to think this out, and the feed back I've received, it seems unlikely in the panic situation I put my self in I would have even touched the rear brake at all. I think that I just jerked the front lever. That simple. Smooth I was not. I feel very fourtunate not have crashed, especially right in front of the local LEO.
I appreciate the input. It has helped sort this out in my head.
The turn is gradual enough that at the speed I was going, 70+/- there is no need to brake. The only time I use a small amount rear brake is just before applying the front to help keep the rear from jacking up as much. It is a technique that is suggested in a book by Nick Ienatsch. He does state that the use of this method is controversial.
Since I have had time to think this out, and the feed back I've received, it seems unlikely in the panic situation I put my self in I would have even touched the rear brake at all. I think that I just jerked the front lever. That simple. Smooth I was not. I feel very fourtunate not have crashed, especially right in front of the local LEO.
I appreciate the input. It has helped sort this out in my head.
Jokes aside, if you like to read/watch and learn, watch this http://goo.gl/kwAQj3
#20
I only watch videos of fish. My goal is to breathe underwater by the time I'm 60. I should also probably watch videos of people turning 60 so I cover all my bases.
#22
Agreed.
But I believe that cognizance of the possibility of crashing and the unexpected needs to always be there, when street riding. Panic braking midcorner will not end well, most of the time.
The problem is, confidence increases at a higher rate than experience. So it takes a great deal of self-discipline.
But I believe that cognizance of the possibility of crashing and the unexpected needs to always be there, when street riding. Panic braking midcorner will not end well, most of the time.
The problem is, confidence increases at a higher rate than experience. So it takes a great deal of self-discipline.
#23
Confidence (read; faith) is the only thing that lets you ride a bike in the first place.
Leaning into a corner is not natural. It is learned faith.
Statisticly, most crashes come from losing your nerve, not actul loss of traction or control (until after you panic).
I have watched hundreds of crashes on the racetrack (no choice they happened in front of me or I was in them). Almost all came from panic locking up the front wheel. Rarely does someone lose outright traction.
Rider confidence failure causes erratic inputs that upset the chassis. The bike knows what to do, you screw up its inertia.
I locked the front at speed many times but really you can "save it on your knee" if you have one thing.
Confidence.
Bailing out causes crashes.
Leaning into a corner is not natural. It is learned faith.
Statisticly, most crashes come from losing your nerve, not actul loss of traction or control (until after you panic).
I have watched hundreds of crashes on the racetrack (no choice they happened in front of me or I was in them). Almost all came from panic locking up the front wheel. Rarely does someone lose outright traction.
Rider confidence failure causes erratic inputs that upset the chassis. The bike knows what to do, you screw up its inertia.
I locked the front at speed many times but really you can "save it on your knee" if you have one thing.
Confidence.
Bailing out causes crashes.
#24
Sand also causes crashes, due to a loss of traction. BTDT. Didn't react. Don't remember a thing about it. Regained consciousness just before being loaded in to the helicopter. Should have been going slower, because it had been a very long day in the saddle and I was tired. But the group wanted to go fast.
You are right about confidence. The questions are: How will you react to something unexpected? Do you have enough experience to calmly hold or correct your line? Or will you stiffen, stand the bike up and grab the brake?
You are right about confidence. The questions are: How will you react to something unexpected? Do you have enough experience to calmly hold or correct your line? Or will you stiffen, stand the bike up and grab the brake?
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