front fork questions
06-06-2006, 07:41 AM
#1
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front fork questions
I had planned to by the fork springs from CNI Dawg (Bill) but now I'm at a standstill and need some help.
Last night I took the front end apart and found I had a little leak around one fork seal. I got that replaced just fine and all appears well.
QUESTION: how much oil does Honda spec for the forks? I had that info at one time and now can't find it.
QUESTION: What weight oil do you guys use? I think 5 wt is factory fill.
After replacing the fork seal I flipped the fork tubes over and went to remove the screw at the bottom so I could remove the damper assembly. Apparently this had been tried before and one screw head is stripped out. The hex key will not bite and I can't get the screw out. I guess I'll have to get and screw extractor and have at it.
QUESTION: Anybody wrestled with this before?
A few weeks back, I stumbled across some info on a web site somewhere and now I can't find it. It had many pictures of a somplete tear down of the front forks. These pics included idsassembly of the rebound damper adjustment screws and explained using safety wire to hold pieces in place. It was some good info but now I can NOT find it again.
QUESTION: Anybody seen this before and know where I can find it again?
Thanks all!
Brian
Last night I took the front end apart and found I had a little leak around one fork seal. I got that replaced just fine and all appears well.
QUESTION: how much oil does Honda spec for the forks? I had that info at one time and now can't find it.
QUESTION: What weight oil do you guys use? I think 5 wt is factory fill.
After replacing the fork seal I flipped the fork tubes over and went to remove the screw at the bottom so I could remove the damper assembly. Apparently this had been tried before and one screw head is stripped out. The hex key will not bite and I can't get the screw out. I guess I'll have to get and screw extractor and have at it.
QUESTION: Anybody wrestled with this before?
A few weeks back, I stumbled across some info on a web site somewhere and now I can't find it. It had many pictures of a somplete tear down of the front forks. These pics included idsassembly of the rebound damper adjustment screws and explained using safety wire to hold pieces in place. It was some good info but now I can NOT find it again.
QUESTION: Anybody seen this before and know where I can find it again?
Thanks all!
Brian
06-06-2006, 08:21 AM
#2
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Originally Posted by Brian A
A few weeks back, I stumbled across some info on a web site somewhere and now I can't find it. It had many pictures of a somplete tear down of the front forks. These pics included idsassembly of the rebound damper adjustment screws and explained using safety wire to hold pieces in place. It was some good info but now I can NOT find it again.
QUESTION: Anybody seen this before and know where I can find it again?
Thanks all!
Brian
Never mind. I found it. It was actually for a CBR 1000RR but still educational info. It was at Greg's Honda Literbikes.
06-06-2006, 11:07 AM
#3
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Brian, I have a video tape from Race Tech on changing the springs and valves. If you want it let me know and I will send it for you to use. The fill level is in the manual. I have that also but not at this location.
Frank
Frank
06-06-2006, 12:41 PM
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Thanks Frank. I'll PM you if I wind up needing the tape.
I have no Owner's Manual but will look around the web to see what I can find.
Thanks again.
Brian
edit-found this:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...highlight=fork
I have no Owner's Manual but will look around the web to see what I can find.
Thanks again.
Brian
edit-found this:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...highlight=fork
06-06-2006, 01:27 PM
#5
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Haven't wrestled a stripped hex in the forks, but any chance you can find a hex key just a hair bigger and hammer/tap it into the stripped hex bolt... then crack it loose? One the 2 sets of forks I've disassembled, once that bolt breaks loose a slight bit, they come out real easy. (Could even try epoxy'ing in the hex key overnight and see if that give you enough grip for the 3 degrees of rotation you'll need to loosen it.
06-06-2006, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian A
Thanks Frank. I'll PM you if I wind up needing the tape.
I have no Owner's Manual but will look around the web to see what I can find.
Thanks again.
Brian
I have no Owner's Manual but will look around the web to see what I can find.
Thanks again.
Brian
Brian,
Until you get your own printed version of the Haynes manual you can use this 102mb PDF version.
http://www.gofastvideo.com/gallery/i...ce-manual.html
(to download click on "Click Here To Play Video")
06-07-2006, 12:45 AM
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Yeah, them bolts are a PITA if they've never been removed from the factory. I have an allen wrench that's twisted about 90* from one - still works though! 
Anyway, the 1000RR forks are completely different. Don't go by that guide. All you have to do is jack, strap, or lift the bike so the forks hang fully extended. Remove the fork cap. Pull spring out and replace. You may have to cut new spacers depending on the spring weight, manufacturer and your weight.
If you are replacing the oil then I recommend you disassemble the forks at least down to the cartridges. No need to pull the compression valve at the bottom. Use lots of brake cleaner and let dry thoroughly. Put it all back together and measure for oil height with springs removed and the fork bottomed out. Make sure you cycle the damping rod slowly until there are no more air bubbles.
Look at me, giving away all my secrets. LOL Okay, how about you send them to me along with a $50 check and I'll take care of it for you.
Anyway, the 1000RR forks are completely different. Don't go by that guide. All you have to do is jack, strap, or lift the bike so the forks hang fully extended. Remove the fork cap. Pull spring out and replace. You may have to cut new spacers depending on the spring weight, manufacturer and your weight.
If you are replacing the oil then I recommend you disassemble the forks at least down to the cartridges. No need to pull the compression valve at the bottom. Use lots of brake cleaner and let dry thoroughly. Put it all back together and measure for oil height with springs removed and the fork bottomed out. Make sure you cycle the damping rod slowly until there are no more air bubbles.
Look at me, giving away all my secrets. LOL Okay, how about you send them to me along with a $50 check and I'll take care of it for you.
06-07-2006, 07:57 AM
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The factory Honda fluid is SS-8, capacity 15.2 +or- 0.08 US oz., level 130mm (5.1 in). If you replace the springs with Race Tech the level is different. Also the fluid.
If you are still having problems wiht the bolt try drilling off the head this might releve the pressure holding the threaded piece in the stop.
Good luck
If you are still having problems wiht the bolt try drilling off the head this might releve the pressure holding the threaded piece in the stop.
Good luck
06-07-2006, 08:14 PM
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I had this a similar problem with a rounded socket head cap screw. I took a Dremel with a small diamond bit and worked the round hole into a square hole. This I made to the same dimensions of a square screwdriver shaft. You need a tool steel square shaft. I tried a mild steel shaft first, but it turned into decorative wrought iron 
. After squirting it with Aerokroil penetrating oil, It popped loose. This took about an hour. Drilling it out would probably be faster. However, I still had that option if my attempt didn't work.
. After squirting it with Aerokroil penetrating oil, It popped loose. This took about an hour. Drilling it out would probably be faster. However, I still had that option if my attempt didn't work.
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