Buying a 2000 VTR1000, What to look for
#32
Well, i installed my blinkers today and did the MCCT. Everything went well for both of those. I had also bought an R1 R/R to replace the junk honda one and when i took the tail fairing off there was what looked to be an upgraded R/R. This one appeared twice as big as stock and had cooling fins all on top of it. So im guessing someone beat me to that.
If it looks like this, aluminum bottom
#34
#35
Get an FH020AA (not a "new" fake copy, but a good used one or new one)
Use Furukawa 250 QLW Series R&R Connectors. (though they need very large crimpers to do right) 16 ga tinned wire for the charge wires and heavy brass ring terminals sized to your battery terminal size (again need very large crimpers to do right) 12ga tinned wire for the stator wires.
I prefer to use a marine rated circuit breaker, but the large ATO style fuse and holder work as well if you want.
Anyone with minimum auto electrical experience can do this, its the cost of doing it just once that makes it a financial loser. Buying one set of connectors means you pay more per set and pay full shipping on them. Needing just 4 ft of wire, still requires buying a roll of each color, red, black, yellow, the large heavy terminales in the Furukawa connectors require a set of $170 crimpers to do right.. Can you smash them with pliers? sure, but it creates weak points in the terminals, and with proper roll crimp a stress riser on the wire.
Need to buy the 1.2mm thick brass ring terminals? No problem only about $0.83 each..plus $6 in shipping so now you bought 2 ring terminals for $7.66
Or you buy a kit .....
NOT hawking my stuff for sale, happy to help anyone build their own with links and sources for everything needed. Just pointing out why for most it's "cheaper" and likely a better product to buy a kit made for the VTR1000F (so not a universal kit) then make your own if your not already equipped with the right tools and at least most of the bulk supplies.
#36
If'n you ain't gonna Hawk it (pun intended), I will! I've used both Roadster Cycle and E.Marquez assemblies. Both are excellent, but Erics is specific to the Super Hawk, a better value, and I try to support Forum members whenever possible.
#37
I appreciate the help and the offer of the kit. It looks great, but spending that kind of money at this current time isnt in my forecast. Is there a better maybe plug direct in RR that i could use. OR should i just use the R1 unit
#38
An 'R1' R/R in certain years were Mosfet - though some were not and were marked SH with the single plug, similar to what Honda fitted to later VTRs after 2001 or could be a cheap chinese copy risking fried battery/electronics.
MOSFET Regulator/Rectifiers - The Why & The How - Part 05, Finding an MOSFET R/R...
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...17/#post297847
MOSFET Regulator/Rectifiers - The Why & The How - Part 05, Finding an MOSFET R/R...
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...17/#post297847
Last edited by Wicky; 02-27-2019 at 01:16 PM.
#39
An 'R1' unit is a Mosfet R/R - that was the point of the upgrade to a more reliable R/R than the stock self-cooking unfinned version.
MOSFET Regulator/Rectifiers - The Why & The How - Part 05, Finding an MOSFET R/R...
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...17/#post297847
MOSFET Regulator/Rectifiers - The Why & The How - Part 05, Finding an MOSFET R/R...
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...17/#post297847
Im gonna take the tail fairing back off and check and see what RR is on there. IT is a finned unit that retains the stock plug. So ill try and do that tonight so i can verify what is it then ill check the markings on the RR i purchased
#40
My suggestion is, if its working now, and you do not want to spend on a Kit, clean the connector well with electrical contact cleaner, spray with a protectant like Boeshield T9, and then keep an eye on your charge voltage, maybe even buy a small cheap digital voltmeter and wire it to a key on power source.
Do not waste your money on half measure solutions.
When your ready, make or buy a kit that uses a real FH020 MOSFET RR, use the correct connectors, and then never worry about it again. The Diode based RR will fail, just a matter of when, so save and spend on it like its a repair property, before its a repair priority costing more than the kit price to repair.
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