uchi

adjusted the cct's last night, evreything is fine, no rattle or anything. but i went for a ride today, and im not sure if this is related or not, but under 4000 rpm i c an hear it whistling, like it has a supercharger on it. i can hear it while under load and decelerating, and also when i rev it. should i be concerned? i checked battery voltage and its at 13.56v. plugged in the battery tender and it went to charge mode for about 10 seconds and then showed it was fully charged. it also has a weird whine while cranking over to start. i just wanna make sure im not about to loose yet another rr.

VTRsurfer

That sounds like basic SuperHawk engine noise to me. Mine's had a high pitched "whine" since it was new. It was more noticeable with stock exhaust though, or when I run it now with the street baffles in.

I've heard some describe it as a sewing machine sound. But your description of it being like a supercharger sound is pretty accurate.

uchi

mines always had a bit of a whine but it was more noticeable today than ever before. last time it started to make a sound the rr crapped out. guess its a good thing i have a towing service. lol. lets hope it lasts i dont wanna replace it a third time

jay956

when i had my cct too tight it would make a honking sound while cranking

1971allchaos

Since the topic is on Werid noises, My 2001 has made a whining since i've owned her, Kind of similar to the cam gear drive in the RC-51 engine... Have to agree with VTRsurfer- Was more noticable with the stock exhaust...
I have been putting another S-hawk(98') back together... and started it up... Have any of the group ever heard S-hawk which is all stock (stock filter, airbox, exhaust) make a "Howling" sound at idle to 6500 rpms. ? ?

VTRsurfer

If it was a car, I'd say "Turn up the radio and don't worry about it".

But seriously, "howling" is usually a term used to describe a bearing noise.

uchi

hmm, interesting. i tightened the cct's as described, hand tight+1/4 turn. maybe ill back them off 1/4 turn and see what happens. the sound only happened since i last messed with it, lol.

speaking of sounds, ever since i bought the bike ive had a light rattle in third and 6th. this year the 6th gear rattle has gotten alot louder. annoying even to the point where i ride around in 5th gear. its loud. no idea what causes it. its been here all year. only thing we changed was the clutch and added a +4 timing advance to it. other than that it runs great. any ideas what would cause it to rattle?

Hawkrider

They should be finger tight, with the engine running and motor at normal operating temperature.

Hawkrider

Uchi,

Make sure your quieting gear is properly installed. This is a spring loaded gear on top of a gear which is located under the ignition timing plate.

[edit] Inserted a pic for clarification

uchi

thats the bastard that had the little things pop out of it. looks like we might be going back in there. thanks for the picture. thats one of those things id never know about.

ill have to get the air box off again this week and re adjust them one more time with the motor running. ive heard alot of people saying finger tight +1/4 when cold and off is fine. ill try it running and see if it makes a difference.

thanks for the help and the link

firehawk

My baby had the same whining noise before removing the PAIR thing.
After PAIR removal, the whine stopped & now she sounded like a cheap Duck !

nath981

how I did the cct adjust was to tighten it with a small socket wrench so that i could tell the chain was tight, then back it off a couple turns, and then go back and finger tighten. This way you know where the end is, and you know that the threads are clean and free enough for finger tightening. I learned to do it this way when i adjusted the valves and when i could see/feel the chain tension and practiced it for when everything was covered up. Works well.

uchi

good point, could be some crap on the threads making it feel like its at the end right. ill play with it some more this week see what i come up with

my pair system has been ditched for a while now, but while im in there ill make sure something hasnt come loose from it. maybe re seal the air box just to be safe

nath981

or could be that the 1/4 turn did you in.

uchi

That's possible too. That's what the directions said. Ill set it up warm tonight. I think i have to bbq dinner tonight so ill tinker with the bike while out there

nath981

either way, when you adjust your valves, you'll be able to see and feel the chain as you tighten the ccts.

uchi

yeah thats another thing i need to do still, the valves. not looking forward to that job

nath981

IMO, valves are the first thing you need to check, esp considering that you run your bike hard and use it for track duty. Then you'll see the timing chain as you tighten, and then sync your carbs last. Look forward to setting the valves because it isn't that hard and the dividends are great, and it costs nothing.

If you do and don't want to tie up your bike for a while, buy a mic and sand your own shims. In this way you can get it done in one day and save yourself a bunch of running and waiting and money. Don't by the Hot Cams kit unless you do mind slop in some and tight in others. Sanding them takes little time and allows you to set your valves exactly where you want them.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...oo-long-24459/

uchi

im guessing the carbs need to come off and then the valve covers follow, how hard are they to set? ive never done them but im gonna need to, i really do flog this thing in the worst way some times. im just waiting for it to explode, lol

VTRsurfer

Where can I get a whistle for my bike?

Just kidding. But I do believe our bikes can take more flogging than most, with our low compression ratio. But I hear you about the valve adjustment. I love doing valve adjustment on cars, but on a bike with shims under the lifters it's not fun. I've been putting mine off, but plan to check it in the next couple thousand miles.

One big advantage with shims is that they hold adjustment better than any other system. After all, we could be riding and working on desmo Ducs with their weird system.

nath981

I never did the shim under cams deal before, so i made it more difficult than it really would have been. There are a bunch of tricks that make it easier, like removing the plugs and putting a metal rod in the hole so that you can watch it to determine TDC. Pics of the cam positions verify your at TDC if you click on "waited too long" link above. Putting a rag down along the cam chain sprockets to prevent bolt dropping into engine, etc.

easy to set if you are willing to sand the shims down to size rather than ordering the ones you think you need. I was able to get mine fairly precise and went +1 on intakes and exhaust because they tighten up, and so they should stay in spec longer. Look in the manual, but i don't remember removing the carbs.

I remember taking off the oil cooler and radiators for ease of access for the front, and for the rear, had the seat off and the tank lifted on the rear if my recollection is correct.

VTRsurfer

Shims under buckets valve adjustment on the old Jaguar XJS V12 was like 11.2 hours flat rate. Shops would quote $1000 or so for that job 20 years ago, but most didn't even want to touch it.

I've only done shims over buckets, on cars, which is much easier.

At least our bikes have big jugs which makes it easier. You don't need to have tiny hands.

And I like nath's tip about stuffing a rag in front of the sprockets. You don't want to drop anything down there.