Anyone local to North NJ/NYC metro area to help with manual CCT install???
07-30-2011, 03:37 AM
#1
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 67
Anyone local to North NJ/NYC metro area to help with manual CCT install???
Well, I picked up a 2001 a couple of days ago and decided to put the manual cct's on as I don't want a repeat of what happened to my 98.
The instructions on here are very simple and straight forward, but I would really LOVE to have someone who done it before help out, even if it's just looking over my shoulder and verbalizing corrections to my technique (normally such action would get my blood boiling, but in this case it would be a welcome addition). There's really nothing like and extra set of eyes and ears.
Thanks in advance, Ethan.
The instructions on here are very simple and straight forward, but I would really LOVE to have someone who done it before help out, even if it's just looking over my shoulder and verbalizing corrections to my technique (normally such action would get my blood boiling, but in this case it would be a welcome addition). There's really nothing like and extra set of eyes and ears.
Thanks in advance, Ethan.
08-05-2011, 06:21 AM
#2
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 67
Weekend bump, there has got to be a kind soul in the metro area....
Would a bribe help? maybe pick a part/s from my stock if you show me how to check the valve clearances??? I'd like to keep this bike forever!
Would a bribe help? maybe pick a part/s from my stock if you show me how to check the valve clearances??? I'd like to keep this bike forever!
08-05-2011, 08:07 AM
#3
Just hangin' out
Back Marker
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Delaware, Ohio USA
Posts: 136
I wish I could help you. I'd think if you strip the bike down to where you can get to the heads, take off the cam cover first, before you take out the tensioner. Get it turned until both sets of valves are closed - no pressure from the valves on the cams trying to turn them and move the cam chain when you pull the tensioner and it goes slack. If you can do that you're good to go.
By the way, that would also be prime time to check valve clearance too since you're in there and they're exposed. I'd recommend running the valves to the high side of clearance and leave them alone up to .001" out of the high end of clearance. It is better to run loose than too tight. With shims under the bucket, you won't spit a shim. I have had two valves at .001" out of the high end clearance on my bike for quite a while. All it does is tick a bit on those two valves. My mechanic friends (very qualified) said they wouldn't pull the cams for a thou, backing up my thoughts.
I may shim them next time, if they should end up .002" out.
Feel free to PM me and I can give you a phone number you may call for some "back up" over the phone if necessary. I'm too far away to help otherwise.
By the way, the adjustment of manual tensioners is simple. When cold - finger tight, then rotate the engine while trying to finger tighten a bit more to take out any slack, back off about 1/8-1/4 turn and lock down. Key words: FINGER TIGHT.
By the way, that would also be prime time to check valve clearance too since you're in there and they're exposed. I'd recommend running the valves to the high side of clearance and leave them alone up to .001" out of the high end of clearance. It is better to run loose than too tight. With shims under the bucket, you won't spit a shim. I have had two valves at .001" out of the high end clearance on my bike for quite a while. All it does is tick a bit on those two valves. My mechanic friends (very qualified) said they wouldn't pull the cams for a thou, backing up my thoughts.
I may shim them next time, if they should end up .002" out.
Feel free to PM me and I can give you a phone number you may call for some "back up" over the phone if necessary. I'm too far away to help otherwise.
By the way, the adjustment of manual tensioners is simple. When cold - finger tight, then rotate the engine while trying to finger tighten a bit more to take out any slack, back off about 1/8-1/4 turn and lock down. Key words: FINGER TIGHT.
08-06-2011, 04:04 PM
#4
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pa
Posts: 734
I can't help but know mechanics that can, in NJ but not close to U.
One guy is in Belvidere & owns a 98 VTR, the other guy is in Basking Ridge.
I've used both & would recommend them to anyone. The VTR owner did my CCT.
Let me know if U want their one's contact info.
One guy is in Belvidere & owns a 98 VTR, the other guy is in Basking Ridge.
I've used both & would recommend them to anyone. The VTR owner did my CCT.
Let me know if U want their one's contact info.
08-08-2011, 05:46 AM
#5
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 67
I wish I could help you. I'd think if you strip the bike down to where you can get to the heads, take off the cam cover first, before you take out the tensioner. Get it turned until both sets of valves are closed - no pressure from the valves on the cams trying to turn them and move the cam chain when you pull the tensioner and it goes slack. If you can do that you're good to go.
By the way, that would also be prime time to check valve clearance too since you're in there and they're exposed. I'd recommend running the valves to the high side of clearance and leave them alone up to .001" out of the high end of clearance. It is better to run loose than too tight. With shims under the bucket, you won't spit a shim. I have had two valves at .001" out of the high end clearance on my bike for quite a while. All it does is tick a bit on those two valves. My mechanic friends (very qualified) said they wouldn't pull the cams for a thou, backing up my thoughts.
I may shim them next time, if they should end up .002" out.
Feel free to PM me and I can give you a phone number you may call for some "back up" over the phone if necessary. I'm too far away to help otherwise.
By the way, the adjustment of manual tensioners is simple. When cold - finger tight, then rotate the engine while trying to finger tighten a bit more to take out any slack, back off about 1/8-1/4 turn and lock down. Key words: FINGER TIGHT.
By the way, that would also be prime time to check valve clearance too since you're in there and they're exposed. I'd recommend running the valves to the high side of clearance and leave them alone up to .001" out of the high end of clearance. It is better to run loose than too tight. With shims under the bucket, you won't spit a shim. I have had two valves at .001" out of the high end clearance on my bike for quite a while. All it does is tick a bit on those two valves. My mechanic friends (very qualified) said they wouldn't pull the cams for a thou, backing up my thoughts.
I may shim them next time, if they should end up .002" out.
Feel free to PM me and I can give you a phone number you may call for some "back up" over the phone if necessary. I'm too far away to help otherwise.
By the way, the adjustment of manual tensioners is simple. When cold - finger tight, then rotate the engine while trying to finger tighten a bit more to take out any slack, back off about 1/8-1/4 turn and lock down. Key words: FINGER TIGHT.
09-04-2011, 10:50 AM
#6
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: West Palm Beach, FL
Posts: 67
Well, the member that was supposed to help out vanished and I'm not one to keep asking. So.... I'm back to this thread to see if there's anyone else that could help. But now, I'd love to have someone show me how to check the valves clearances also (and explain how to adjust them if necessary). I know, if I have the manual I should be able to do it by myself. Thing is, I want to learn to do it myself and do it right, and there's just no way to do it on your own the first time let alone do it right.... maybe to some more talented folks than myself it's enough, but it's most definitely not enough for this old dog.
I said it before and I'll say it again, I really want to keep this bike indefinitely. TIA
I said it before and I'll say it again, I really want to keep this bike indefinitely. TIA
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