98 Superhawk - Down
#1
98 Superhawk - Down
I just picked up a lovely Superhawk for my 2nd bike around three weeks ago.
First bike was an Sv650 that was totaled when somebody wasn't paying attention and turned in front of me. Broken leg, summer in the hospital, metal rod from my knee to ankle. So it goes. I'm from Massachusetts, we have had a longer than average winter. It has finally started to turn around, got a new pair of A* SMX-Plus boots, and made the most of the nice weather and went for a good hour and a half ride.
Sadly on my way home, turning onto my street I turned a bit too sharp and miss judged the amount (half+ inch) of sand and pebbles still in the middle of the street entrance. I was only going 10~15mph if that, but before I knew there was trouble I low sided and was on the ground with my bike was sliding across the street. Gauntlets and boots did their job but I didn't have riding pants on so my knee rashed up a bit. No worse than taking a tumble on my mountain bike really. Still, I feel like a tool because it shouldn't have happened and was 100% rider error.
My right front and rear fairings are a bit rashed up, not too bad but still scuffed. However, I don't think the PO installed the bar-end sliders correctly. Instead of being in the handle bar tube I think it was mostly seated in the throttle tube. It basically just popped right out and in the process cracked the throttle tube.
I'm guessing that needs to be replaced but that brings me to my next issue...
The bike also has handle bar instead of clip-ons, it says Outlaw on the risers (Sorry if my terminology is off)
I checked Outlaws website but didn't see anything similar under the street section to what's on the bike. I haven't had much luck googling it either. What should be looking for to replace it with? Are handlebars mostly universal in diameter?
The worst damage though was my crankcase cover though.
It ground all the way though which I found surprising, it wasn't traveling very fast or far. I already ordered a new gasket set, but reading through the service manual I guess I need an O-ring for the water pump too. My main question here is it wise to have the crankcase cover repaired? My friend who is going to help me with repairs is a machinist and knows guys that have been working with aluminium for 30+ years. He is confidant that it can be fixed up pretty quickly but I wouldn't mind extra input. This is my first serious foray into doing any sort of mechanical work, I apologize for any totally newbish questions. The silver lining is I guess now I actually get to use all the tools / torque wrench I bought before my serious accident last year.
On the plus side, during my ride a 7 year old girl in a princess dress and tiara was frantically waving at me at a stop light. That definitely made my day.
First bike was an Sv650 that was totaled when somebody wasn't paying attention and turned in front of me. Broken leg, summer in the hospital, metal rod from my knee to ankle. So it goes. I'm from Massachusetts, we have had a longer than average winter. It has finally started to turn around, got a new pair of A* SMX-Plus boots, and made the most of the nice weather and went for a good hour and a half ride.
Sadly on my way home, turning onto my street I turned a bit too sharp and miss judged the amount (half+ inch) of sand and pebbles still in the middle of the street entrance. I was only going 10~15mph if that, but before I knew there was trouble I low sided and was on the ground with my bike was sliding across the street. Gauntlets and boots did their job but I didn't have riding pants on so my knee rashed up a bit. No worse than taking a tumble on my mountain bike really. Still, I feel like a tool because it shouldn't have happened and was 100% rider error.
My right front and rear fairings are a bit rashed up, not too bad but still scuffed. However, I don't think the PO installed the bar-end sliders correctly. Instead of being in the handle bar tube I think it was mostly seated in the throttle tube. It basically just popped right out and in the process cracked the throttle tube.
I'm guessing that needs to be replaced but that brings me to my next issue...
The bike also has handle bar instead of clip-ons, it says Outlaw on the risers (Sorry if my terminology is off)
I checked Outlaws website but didn't see anything similar under the street section to what's on the bike. I haven't had much luck googling it either. What should be looking for to replace it with? Are handlebars mostly universal in diameter?
The worst damage though was my crankcase cover though.
It ground all the way though which I found surprising, it wasn't traveling very fast or far. I already ordered a new gasket set, but reading through the service manual I guess I need an O-ring for the water pump too. My main question here is it wise to have the crankcase cover repaired? My friend who is going to help me with repairs is a machinist and knows guys that have been working with aluminium for 30+ years. He is confidant that it can be fixed up pretty quickly but I wouldn't mind extra input. This is my first serious foray into doing any sort of mechanical work, I apologize for any totally newbish questions. The silver lining is I guess now I actually get to use all the tools / torque wrench I bought before my serious accident last year.
On the plus side, during my ride a 7 year old girl in a princess dress and tiara was frantically waving at me at a stop light. That definitely made my day.
#2
Sorry to hear about your crash, thankfully you aren't hurt too bad.
Those look like motocross bars the "risers" or bar mounts are just adapters for them to be able to be put on the top of the triple clamp instead of street bike clipons, or on a mx bike to raise the bar height or put on a thincker 1 1/8 inch bar instead of the stock 7/8 inch. Any 7/8's inch motocross handle bars will fit. Just pick your favourite colour and brand bars (Renthal, Tag, Pro Taper etc.). Just make sure you get the 7/8 not the 1 1/8th "fat' bars.
Those look like motocross bars the "risers" or bar mounts are just adapters for them to be able to be put on the top of the triple clamp instead of street bike clipons, or on a mx bike to raise the bar height or put on a thincker 1 1/8 inch bar instead of the stock 7/8 inch. Any 7/8's inch motocross handle bars will fit. Just pick your favourite colour and brand bars (Renthal, Tag, Pro Taper etc.). Just make sure you get the 7/8 not the 1 1/8th "fat' bars.
#3
Ouch! Look for someone experienced in welding aluminium to fix the clutch cover or keep an eye on ebay for decent second-hand replacement and then bung a protective carbon cover from carbonadi.
Make sure no gravel, grated ali etc. has ended up in your engine through the clutch entry hole and give it a good oil and filter change
Carbonadi - clutch protector VTR1000 Firestorm clutch protector HONDA VTR1000 Firestorm
www.vtr1000.org; Carbonadi
As for fairing panels check for cracks and drill the end of any you find with a tiny drill bit to stop them spreading further. Then find some flexible bumper filler for your rashed fairings:
www.vtr1000.org ; View topic - Plastic repair & prep on fairings with pics
As for handlebars - are they bent? Can't they be straightened?? If you want to replace them, simply measure them for the req. diameter.
Make sure no gravel, grated ali etc. has ended up in your engine through the clutch entry hole and give it a good oil and filter change
Carbonadi - clutch protector VTR1000 Firestorm clutch protector HONDA VTR1000 Firestorm
www.vtr1000.org; Carbonadi
As for fairing panels check for cracks and drill the end of any you find with a tiny drill bit to stop them spreading further. Then find some flexible bumper filler for your rashed fairings:
www.vtr1000.org ; View topic - Plastic repair & prep on fairings with pics
As for handlebars - are they bent? Can't they be straightened?? If you want to replace them, simply measure them for the req. diameter.
Last edited by Wicky; 04-21-2013 at 12:24 AM.
#4
Sorry to hear about your crash, thankfully you aren't hurt too bad.
Those look like motocross bars the "risers" or bar mounts are just adapters for them to be able to be put on the top of the triple clamp instead of street bike clipons, or on a mx bike to raise the bar height or put on a thincker 1 1/8 inch bar instead of the stock 7/8 inch. Any 7/8's inch motocross handle bars will fit. Just pick your favourite colour and brand bars (Renthal, Tag, Pro Taper etc.). Just make sure you get the 7/8 not the 1 1/8th "fat' bars.
Those look like motocross bars the "risers" or bar mounts are just adapters for them to be able to be put on the top of the triple clamp instead of street bike clipons, or on a mx bike to raise the bar height or put on a thincker 1 1/8 inch bar instead of the stock 7/8 inch. Any 7/8's inch motocross handle bars will fit. Just pick your favourite colour and brand bars (Renthal, Tag, Pro Taper etc.). Just make sure you get the 7/8 not the 1 1/8th "fat' bars.
Ouch! Look for someone experienced in welding aluminium to fix the clutch cover or keep an eye on ebay for decent second-hand replacement and then bung a protective carbon cover from carbonadi.
Make sure no gravel, grated ali etc. has ended up in your engine through the clutch entry hole and give it a good oil and filter change
Carbonadi - clutch protector VTR1000 Firestorm clutch protector HONDA VTR1000 Firestorm
www.vtr1000.org; Carbonadi
As for fairing panels check for cracks and drill the end of any you find with a tiny drill bit to stop them spreading further. Then find some flexible bumper filler for your rashed fairings:
www.vtr1000.org ; View topic - Plastic repair & prep on fairings with pics
As for handlebars - are they bent? Can't they be straightened?? If you want to replace them, simply measure them for the req. diameter.
Make sure no gravel, grated ali etc. has ended up in your engine through the clutch entry hole and give it a good oil and filter change
Carbonadi - clutch protector VTR1000 Firestorm clutch protector HONDA VTR1000 Firestorm
www.vtr1000.org; Carbonadi
As for fairing panels check for cracks and drill the end of any you find with a tiny drill bit to stop them spreading further. Then find some flexible bumper filler for your rashed fairings:
www.vtr1000.org ; View topic - Plastic repair & prep on fairings with pics
As for handlebars - are they bent? Can't they be straightened?? If you want to replace them, simply measure them for the req. diameter.
My fairings are only a bit scratched up and not cracked. Thanks for the links though, they will come in helpful down the road if I decide to touch up the scrapes. As for looking gravel and bits of metal... are there any places I should specifically look for other than in the crank case? Once I remove the crank case, I know I have to replace the gasket and o-ring for the water pump. Are there any other seals / o-rings/ washers or other parts I will have to replace for the repair?
Having a searchable version of the service manual is immensely helpful, I'm a total novice when it come to doing anything mechanical though. I greatly appreciate all the advice and hopefully can avoid asking too many dumb questions.
Last edited by AgDroid; 04-22-2013 at 09:08 PM.
#5
Just a bit of an update, drained most of the fluid and was able to get the crankcase off with a bit of finesse. It's at the shop and should be done tomorrow, my gaskets came in the middle of everything which worked out quite well. Thanks to the oil filter thread I was able to get all the right parts to get that taken care of.
The only thing I'm not quite sure of the right way to go about is removing the dowel pins from the crank case and water pump. One of them came right out no problem but the other three are stuck in there really tight. Is there a trick to get them out? They seem like it would be easy to damage trying to use pliers.
And if anybody has a simple method of snaking the pulse generator wire back to where it needs to go I'm all ears, that was no fun getting out and can't imagine it will be a joy to put back either.
New gear should be coming today, hopefully I'll be riding by next week Finding these forums has been a god send.
The only thing I'm not quite sure of the right way to go about is removing the dowel pins from the crank case and water pump. One of them came right out no problem but the other three are stuck in there really tight. Is there a trick to get them out? They seem like it would be easy to damage trying to use pliers.
And if anybody has a simple method of snaking the pulse generator wire back to where it needs to go I'm all ears, that was no fun getting out and can't imagine it will be a joy to put back either.
New gear should be coming today, hopefully I'll be riding by next week Finding these forums has been a god send.
#6
For your first part, I wouldn't worry about repairing it rather than getting a new one... that is a sensitive part of the bike so a few people have had to do the same thing. It's mostly an aesthetic issue to replace a new one. And those carbon covers are just glued on with silicon or something else that isn't extremely permanent (and only available from overseas at the moment).
I don't remember having trouble with the pulse generator wire the multiple times I've had the cover off, so I don't think it will be that hard to put in. Assemble the wire first and then put the cover on. Just use some RTV/Silicon where it exits the case to avoid leaks. I've re-used the o-rings as well, but it's better to get new ones.
Also, do you need to remove the dowel pins for any reason specifically? Putting little nicks in them isn't and end-all deal. Maybe get some pliers with a rubber hose on the pins and try to twist them... once they twist they'll come out easier. They just help locate the covers... gasket goes around them so as long as they don't limit the covers from being bolted flush I don't imagine a couple of nicks would be a problem.
I don't remember having trouble with the pulse generator wire the multiple times I've had the cover off, so I don't think it will be that hard to put in. Assemble the wire first and then put the cover on. Just use some RTV/Silicon where it exits the case to avoid leaks. I've re-used the o-rings as well, but it's better to get new ones.
Also, do you need to remove the dowel pins for any reason specifically? Putting little nicks in them isn't and end-all deal. Maybe get some pliers with a rubber hose on the pins and try to twist them... once they twist they'll come out easier. They just help locate the covers... gasket goes around them so as long as they don't limit the covers from being bolted flush I don't imagine a couple of nicks would be a problem.
#7
Thanks for the kind thoughts, stopped in the Dr's office today just to have him take a look. My first aid skills are still top notch it seems Are there any brands that are absolute garbage I should stay away from? The actual bar it self isn't damaged, just the tube inside the grip. Do new sets of grips come with the throttle tube in the grip? Looking on RevZilla it's hard to tell from product descriptions / pictures.
Ahh ok if its just the tube inside the grip thats broken then your bars are fine and you just need to get a new Throttle Tube. Those are fairly cheap to get, just search for throttle tube for the Superhawk on ebay and you will get lots of them.
#8
Sorry to hear about the offs. Try to focus on riding paranoid. You are quickly learning that bikes are inherently unstable vehicles.
This brings up a queston. Has anyone done something like bolt delrin sliders over the case covers? My racebikes all have big steel case covers but what about bolting sliders right onto the covers?
This brings up a queston. Has anyone done something like bolt delrin sliders over the case covers? My racebikes all have big steel case covers but what about bolting sliders right onto the covers?
#9
Sorry to hear about the offs. Try to focus on riding paranoid. You are quickly learning that bikes are inherently unstable vehicles.
This brings up a queston. Has anyone done something like bolt delrin sliders over the case covers? My racebikes all have big steel case covers but what about bolting sliders right onto the covers?
This brings up a queston. Has anyone done something like bolt delrin sliders over the case covers? My racebikes all have big steel case covers but what about bolting sliders right onto the covers?
#10
Skateboard wheels? Glue? Twist you've been eating too much rice-a-roni.
agdroid, here this is what I was thinking coulda saved you case cover
http://www.ebay.com/itm/R-G-RIGHT-SI...#ht_991wt_1235
Its for a cbr but you get the idea.
agdroid, here this is what I was thinking coulda saved you case cover
http://www.ebay.com/itm/R-G-RIGHT-SI...#ht_991wt_1235
Its for a cbr but you get the idea.
Last edited by smokinjoe73; 05-04-2013 at 11:34 AM.
#11
For your first part, I wouldn't worry about repairing it rather than getting a new one... that is a sensitive part of the bike so a few people have had to do the same thing. It's mostly an aesthetic issue to replace a new one. And those carbon covers are just glued on with silicon or something else that isn't extremely permanent (and only available from overseas at the moment).
I don't remember having trouble with the pulse generator wire the multiple times I've had the cover off, so I don't think it will be that hard to put in. Assemble the wire first and then put the cover on. Just use some RTV/Silicon where it exits the case to avoid leaks. I've re-used the o-rings as well, but it's better to get new ones.
Also, do you need to remove the dowel pins for any reason specifically? Putting little nicks in them isn't and end-all deal. Maybe get some pliers with a rubber hose on the pins and try to twist them... once they twist they'll come out easier. They just help locate the covers... gasket goes around them so as long as they don't limit the covers from being bolted flush I don't imagine a couple of nicks would be a problem.
I don't remember having trouble with the pulse generator wire the multiple times I've had the cover off, so I don't think it will be that hard to put in. Assemble the wire first and then put the cover on. Just use some RTV/Silicon where it exits the case to avoid leaks. I've re-used the o-rings as well, but it's better to get new ones.
Also, do you need to remove the dowel pins for any reason specifically? Putting little nicks in them isn't and end-all deal. Maybe get some pliers with a rubber hose on the pins and try to twist them... once they twist they'll come out easier. They just help locate the covers... gasket goes around them so as long as they don't limit the covers from being bolted flush I don't imagine a couple of nicks would be a problem.
The other thing that has me perplexed is that almost every nut and bolt on this service manual has torque settings... except for the right crank case cover. I've double checked the manual and couldn't anything explicitly stating what to tighten them too. I just went to about what felt like they were when they came out, fingers crossed it's alright.
Last thing to do now is fill it coolant and oil, I let the RTV set for a day just to be safe and have to find a socket for the oil filter. If everything goes as planned hopefully I'll be back on the road in no time. The manual says to use a oil filter socket + wrench to put the new filter on... sadly it seems that the socket is almost impossible to find. Is hand tight okay for replacing the oil filter? I can borrow something like ( ) that's a smaller size that should fit the filter I purchased (Mobile M1-108, per oil filter thread) if I really need to torque it correctly I'll find what I need but I'd rather get riding sooner rather than later.
#12
I was able to get new coolant and oil in with out much hassle. Put the fairings back on and went for a short but decent ride on Thursday. The weather cleared up today and I decided to practice some figure 8's and slow turns in an empty parking lot.
On my way home things went bad. I started to hear some popping while on the throttle in first not going very fast. My engine cut out but I wasn't able to get it started and moving again. I pushed it to the nearest gas station and put a bit more gas in the tank to see if that was the problem. That didn't help and when I turn the key it barely clicks or makes the usual starting sounds before it starts up.
I don't think it's the battery because considering it was running fine before then. I'm at a loss for what could be wrong now. Does anybody know of some good repair places around Worcester Ma?
On my way home things went bad. I started to hear some popping while on the throttle in first not going very fast. My engine cut out but I wasn't able to get it started and moving again. I pushed it to the nearest gas station and put a bit more gas in the tank to see if that was the problem. That didn't help and when I turn the key it barely clicks or makes the usual starting sounds before it starts up.
I don't think it's the battery because considering it was running fine before then. I'm at a loss for what could be wrong now. Does anybody know of some good repair places around Worcester Ma?
#13
SOMEBODY give me a nickel for each of these posts!! Just a nickel!!!!
Your regulator/rectifier went bad. Not a big deal but you are grounded til you buy a new one.
You can use an R1 unit like I did if you find a cheap one on fleabay.
Do a SEARCH on here as there are more threads on this than every other topic combined.
Your regulator/rectifier went bad. Not a big deal but you are grounded til you buy a new one.
You can use an R1 unit like I did if you find a cheap one on fleabay.
Do a SEARCH on here as there are more threads on this than every other topic combined.
#14
I know the guy who owns the gas station I pushed it too, he wasn't there for the walk of shame but through the grape vine he found out my bike was at the station and got somebody to come take a look at it. Turns out the battery was garbage and wasn't a holding a charge at all. He tested the R/R and it was putting out good numbers. It looks like it has already been replaced, what's in there now has fins (like this Firestorm / SuperHawk (VTR1000F) Regulator Rectifier Modification ) but I can't say for sure where it came from. New battery went in and everything was peachy keen.
While I was waiting for the battery to get there I saw a guy on a Harley who wasn't paying attention to a passenger van slowing down in front of him and rear ended the van at about 15 or so Mph. I was on the phone with the police before he was even off the ground. Him and the driver of the van talked, the van drove off and the Harley guy walked off leaving his bike on the side of the road. Police were camped out waiting for him to come back when I left, never a dull moment!
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