7moore7

Let's start with one thing at a time. New R/R and electronics previously fried? First I'd look at battery voltage with the bike turned on and off.

BTW, what idle screw are you talking about? The thumb screw on the right side of the bike? Damn well better adjust idle because it's basically adjusting your throttle cable stop. So unless your throttle isn't working it should change your RPM. Peek in there and twist and you'll see. If it's well below the throttle stop, it won't change idle until the screw touches (by turning it clockwise), but this is something that you can visually see happening. Unless you're talking about a different idle screw. Perhaps you're looking at the carb sync screw (which is an actual screw)...?

Rule of thumb; never assume a shop has done something correctly. They should, and often do, but assuming that they did often gets you into trouble. They're just people, they make mistakes, they've got high motivation to work quickly, and it's not their bike (which means they may or may not know how to work on it, and certainly have less motivation to get it done correctly).

OK! So if you've checked voltage to make sure your R/R replacement is temporarily functioning properly and battery voltage is up to spec, then I'd move on... it's easy to check petcock/fuel flow like beerhunter suggested, and people often have problems with that...

7moore7

Which pipe is cold? Are you feeling the header coming out of the motor or the muffler?

scottiemann

please describe this better as Ive had a spark plug foul on me before and I wasnt able to even move the bike before it would stall no matter how much gas I gave it...

and while you were riding? was there a specific event, or noise leading up to or when this happened?

and one muffler is supposed to be significantly cooler than the other, just the way the exhaust flows and header design by honda.

scottiemann

+1 on what saige and 7moore7 said

you might have to check your cam timing, if this happened while you were riding and you have the stock ccts then they may have not completely failed but the chain may have skipped a tooth on the sprocket...

the shop said your losing spark somewhere? its pretty easy to check spark especially on this bike...

is the petcock fully open? I know it sounds stupid but we all overlook simple things sometimes..

here is information on setting the tpshttps://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/knowledge-base-40/kb-article-4-throttle-position-sensor-9876/

and like 7moore7 said about the idle screw, maybe the shop loosened it while they were working on the carbs and didnt put it back when they hooked up the throttle linkage... like he said you may have to keep screwing it in until it hits if its not touching which you can see clearly under the gas tank on the right side

RWhisen

Check your vacuum line to the petcock. Sounds as if it may have a hole or may have come off.

bzera

Ok, here is a better update(I think). The shop I just picked it up from says they think its getting more than enough fuel. He seemed to think its my icm or when i suggested cam chain tensioner he said thats a possibility. I just haven't had any of the sounds or catasrophic failure that ive heard about ppl on here running into for ccm. Its running a little different now too. It will idle with choke on till it gets warm. If I take choke off it dies. Its much smoother while its warming up. Once it starts to warm up it has problems. I give it throttle and it hesitates then will rev up. once it gets warmer it simply won't idle and gets hard to start. when it idles it idles below 1k and sounds like it randomly misses. Also when I drove it home it backfires quite a bit on decelleration. I did replace the R/R and the speedo came back(never lost the tach) and the odometer came back. Now the speedo went out again and the odometer isnt reading again. Seems to be charging though. I would check about spark myself but I tried reading the manual and might as well be in chinese. I have no idea how to check any ignition system stuff either as that was also difficult for me. no experience there. I do have a voltage tester just no knowledge on where to place testers and exactly how much voltage for each part to look for. You guys have been awesome thanks. Btw petcock is fine.

Tweety

With a shop making wild and completely inaccurate guesses all over the place, pick another one for the next attempt... It's not even a feasible guess that it might be either the ICM, since then the bike would not be running at all... Nor is it the CCT's since they only really fail in two possible ways... One is clunk, bang followed by a destroyed engine... The other is rattle, rattle rattle, followed by clunk bang dead engine... Neither of the two allows you to ride the bike around long enough to notice any misfires or "odd running"...

How do you know the petcock is "fine"? How did you test it, and what where the results? You are giving a lot of half assumptions and confusing information, nothing to go on...

8541Hawk

Also where are you located at?

7moore7

What started this mess? Did your r/r go out and you replace it once already?

I have three things that will be easy to check off the list...

1) Which pipe is cold?

2) Double check the vacuum line on the petcock (one more time, for *****). The little one. It should be at the BACK, angled sideways, not at the bottom pointed down.

3) Let's check voltage, b/c it sounds like your r/r may be bad. You have a DMM (digital multi memter), voltage meter, or something like that correct? First, put it on the 20V setting. This just means that you're planning on testing voltage that is under 20V, but in that general decimal range. Now put each prong on the corresponding terminal of your battery (red to red, black to black). You should read around 12V. If it's well below this, the battery is bad or undercharged. Now turn the bike on and do the same thing. It should jump in the 14V range. If your engine idle is below 1Krpm, it may not get there, so rev it up to about 2Krpm. If it is above 14.5 your R/R is broken and overcharging your battery. If it is below 13.5 or so it's broken and not charging it enough (sounds like this could be it). Should take less than 10 min.

Then you can check spark and such, but I suspect reading through your posts, you have another bad r/r, which can happen even with a new OEM or cheap replacement if you have bad connectors. Your spark will be weak or not working properly if the r/r isn't functioning properly.

7moore7

+1

7moore7

One more thing. Have you fixed your idle? I can have my bike idling without stalling down at 800rpm, but for oil pressure and charging, you want it up around 1200rpm.

Look in the right side of your bike through the frame, right behind the "V" brace in the aluminum. See that little black **** that looks like a thumb screw? It is a thumb screw! Turn that sucka clockwise until your idle starts going up.

bzera

Ok, finally got the bike running good. It seemed as if everybody seemed to think it was fuel related so I started there n redid carbs n dbl checked everything as I went. Carbs did get dirty again. An earwig got in them. Bike runs great now! Thanks for all the help.

Now my speedo is out again. So I Checked the voltage. About 10v while bike is off. Spikes to 12 while bile idles and stats there if I rev. Bad battery? Bad r/r? Both? I've been told my battery should be good.

Tweety

If the battery is at 10V at any time, it's either bad already, or about to become bad... Put it on a good charger, and see what happens, if it quickly climbs back to where it belongs, a bit above 12V prefferably, then the R/R is bad and not charging... If it takes a very long time, it's wasted, and you should probably replace both battery and R/R...

With a healthy charging system your battery sits above 11.5V with the bike off, perhaps higher depending on the exact type of battery, and should with the bike running be at all times 12.5 to 13.5V... Never, ever above that, and possibly at idle "battery voltage" ie the same as when turned off... If it's anything else, start looking for the broken part...

twist

Since I'm new to the VTR I don't have much experience with it's systems yet. That said, all engines need 3 things to run: air, fuel and spark. From my past experience with other bikes, checking the battery would be a great place to start. A bad battery or poor battery will cause no end of strange symptoms. It can seem fine but if it's discharging quickly or not holding a charge you get a lot of what you're describing. I don't know if it matters with this bike, but you didn't mention year. All really good advice from the forum. Usually it's the simplest and most obvious thing causing you your headache. Start looking at the most basic stuff first.

Jack Flash

Battery, when bike is off, should not sit below 12.60. If it sot's below this, you need to charge it. If after charge, put a volt meter on it, and verify how fast it begins to loose charge. Should not loose more then ,01 volt very four to five minutes, and stop at 12.80 after a good nuber of hours.
Magic number for a healthy batterie, is 12.80. Higher then this means you are loosing valuable amps to shart engine. Lower, means it's getting week, and smae symptoms begin to occur.
This is really in a nut shell. It would take me much more writing to be more precise, but should be good with this info.