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weird shit coming out of exhaust at clamp.

Old Mar 31, 2011 | 02:46 PM
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weird **** coming out of exhaust at clamp.

ok heres the deal, i started the bike this morning. fluid came rushing out of the middle of the pipes where the slip ons meet the headers/collector whatever. yes the cooling system was flushed and yes the cap was replaced.....im at now going to check to see if the petcock is stuck open. then i will take apart the carburetors to see if the needle is stuck open allowing said fuel into the cylinders. please dont get this confused with the engine overheating.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 03:06 PM
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check the petcock and make sure the pvlir is in the correct place.this happened to a freinds bike,a superhawk,and gas was coming thru the rear exaust.
it wasnt good.the diaphram could be no good anymore and could force fluids where it dont belong.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 03:30 PM
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i checked the petcock and its good. i started the bike again and this time actually looked at the fluid....ya its coolant. i got it flushed and leak tested. you would think that this wouldve shown something was up. but what ev. i just ordered two gaskets from the stealership. im gonna look for a head removal thread here but expect my to ask questions anyway. thanks.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 03:45 PM
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Down load the service manual, if you don't already have one and pull the heads, it's not that hard. Just follow the steps in the manual.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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i found an online manual, but i cant donwload it, link? it says you have to pull the cams to take off head? really? i would rather not have to mess with the timing. i was hoping to just separate the cam sprockets from the shafts and zip tie them in place on the chain and not have to worry about it.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 04:10 PM
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try this
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...-manual-11365/
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by nykuryu
i found an online manual, but i cant donwload it, link? it says you have to pull the cams to take off head? really? i would rather not have to mess with the timing. i was hoping to just separate the cam sprockets from the shafts and zip tie them in place on the chain and not have to worry about it.
I'm pretty sure that you can take the head off without removing the cams like you're suggesting. Removing the sprockets from the shafts could work if the sprockets fit down the side of the head. I can't visualize if there's enough room right now...

It still seems like it's more work than it's worth, though- setting timing really is straightforward to do. It takes 15 min of making sure you know the process and 10 minutes of putting the chain back on correctly if you've never done it before. It sounds like you have, which I honestly bet you could do the whole thing 10.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 07:59 PM
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so ive turned my patio into a garage. i already found something fucked up. the velocity stacks were backwards......so i post pics of the teardown? does anyone care?
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by nykuryu
so ive turned my patio into a garage. i already found something fucked up. the velocity stacks were backwards......so i post pics of the teardown? does anyone care?
I'd check in every once in awhile (or like everyday as I'm on the internet at work haha) stoopid computers giving me a job and then making me look at them all the time...

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...rebuild-23868/

Forum helped me a bunch, although most problems I ran into I posted in a separate thread...
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 08:31 PM
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ya i looked at your thread, but its seems to be more entire bike oriented. not really engine specific. good job btw.


Old Mar 31, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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sure enough, heres the milky oil. do the cams look right? not set to TDC.

Last edited by nykuryu; Mar 31, 2011 at 08:58 PM.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 09:17 PM
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Cams look smooth. Oil indeed is murky.

I went into the engine a bit, although like I said when I came across issues and opened up new threads so the experts could address them specifically rather than just look through another build thread of someone babbling about waiting for parts to come in and being excited and all. If you plan on taking the covers off, you may want to check the valves clearances first to see if you want to replace any shims.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 09:33 PM
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ya, ive reached my stopping pint for tonight. i was reading the timing section and am hella confused. you cant take the heads off without taking off the cam holders, thus taking out the cams. so when i set the front cams align the FT in the sight hole and make sure the FI and FE are on the outside of the cam gears level with the head surface? now for the rears i do the same thing but to make sure im on the right stroke should the front cam marks be on the inside of the cam gears?

IN valve clearance: .16
EX valve clearance: .31 ===== hundredths? really? seems kinda....big

Last edited by nykuryu; Mar 31, 2011 at 09:41 PM.
Old Mar 31, 2011 | 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by nykuryu
ya, ive reached my stopping pint for tonight. i was reading the timing section and am hella confused. you cant take the heads off without taking off the cam holders, thus taking out the cams. so when i set the front cams align the FT in the sight hole and make sure the FI and FE are on the outside of the cam gears level with the head surface? now for the rears i do the same thing but to make sure im on the right stroke should the front cam marks be on the inside of the cam gears?

IN valve clearance: .16
EX valve clearance: .31 ===== hundredths? really? seems kinda....big
Seems like you got it right by the description... this stuff is really kinda confusing in words as the front and rear have the same procedure, but the alignment is slightly off.

The easiest way for me to tell is that the cam lobes are pointing out and upward when you're at TDC for the front, and up and indward when you're at TDC for the rear...

This is the front:
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Rear (image was jacked from another thread):

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Old Mar 31, 2011 | 10:56 PM
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ok, im gonna get that socket tomorrow and set TDC.
Old Apr 1, 2011 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by nykuryu
ya, ive reached my stopping pint for tonight. i was reading the timing section and am hella confused. you cant take the heads off without taking off the cam holders, thus taking out the cams. so when i set the front cams align the FT in the sight hole and make sure the FI and FE are on the outside of the cam gears level with the head surface? now for the rears i do the same thing but to make sure im on the right stroke should the front cam marks be on the inside of the cam gears?

IN valve clearance: .16
EX valve clearance: .31 ===== hundredths? really? seems kinda....big
Intake .16MM + or -.03MM or .006 thousandths. + or - .001 Thousandths
Exhaust .31MM + or - .03MM or .012 Thousandths + or -.001 thousandths
Old Apr 1, 2011 | 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SPRHK
Intake .16MM + or -.03MM or .006 thousandths. + or - .001 Thousandths
Exhaust .31MM + or - .03MM or .012 Thousandths + or -.001 thousandths
That makes more sense thanks. Why do hundredths
Old Apr 1, 2011 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by nykuryu
That makes more sense thanks. Why do hundredths
They dont. It is metric & american measurements.
.16MM is Millimeters
.006 is Thousandths
Old Apr 1, 2011 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by SPRHK
They dont. It is metric & american measurements.
.16MM is Millimeters
.006 is Thousandths

oh i see.
Old Apr 2, 2011 | 12:32 AM
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ok well made some progress. got the rear cylinder off. im not sure if it was full with water aswell, but the front is definitely effed. i didnt pull the head off it yet but the plug was completely soaked.
front plug

rear bore

rear gasket

valves
Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:14 AM
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Do the mating surfaces need to be PERFECTLY clean of the old gasket? I got a lot of the black **** off using a scotchbrite pad and brake cleaner and its pretty dam clean, just a little bit left that doesn't wanna come off.
Old Apr 6, 2011 | 10:50 AM
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It is best to have them completely clean. If you can feel the piece left on the surface then it has to go. Razor blade works well for those pesky pieces left behind.
Old Apr 6, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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ok, i just didnt feel ok with taking a razon blade and gouging the metal surface
Old Apr 7, 2011 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by nykuryu
ok, i just didnt feel ok with taking a razon blade and gouging the metal surface
You need to use finesse. If you are careful, you will not gouge the metal.
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