vtr overheating again -_-
08-21-2014, 12:54 AM
#1
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vtr overheating again -_-
well i have a few problems. one of which im pretty sure is the plugs i just changed are shot again. not so worried about those. my problem now is that i am still overheating. i found 1 leak but i am not sure if i am still leaking or whats going on. still no signs of a head gasket and i seem to be consuming oil to. when i hold my bike up straight i only have 1/2-3/4 of oil in the glass any suggestions to either problem? i rode without the belly pan yesterday and no signs of coolant on the back tire my foot was a little wet from a few drops of im assuming coolant. but my fan runs for those few minutes i said about before while in the city then it just craps out and doesnt turn back on. check my right rad and bone dry again. its like my coolant isnt circulating out of the filler neck. i never see the liquid in that bottle move even after the thermostat opens and my coolant is flowing. and i see if flow from the rad hose that connects the 2 rads and it doesnt seem to fill up all the way hence why i stated i am losing coolant.
08-21-2014, 01:20 AM
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Have you replaced the radiator cap?
Also would pay to pressure test the cooling system.
Take it to a radiator repairer and get him to pressure test the cooling system and your radiator cap.
That way you will know for sure if your cap needs replacing, or you have a coolant leak.
Good luck!
Also would pay to pressure test the cooling system.
Take it to a radiator repairer and get him to pressure test the cooling system and your radiator cap.
That way you will know for sure if your cap needs replacing, or you have a coolant leak.
Good luck!
08-21-2014, 04:56 PM
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Oh and what brand of shirts do you wear and do you smoke the same cigarettes as me. I know that this seems strange but it could help.
08-21-2014, 07:14 PM
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well its weird the bike will crank and crank and crank. sometimes if i blip the throttle 2 or 3 times (i just changed the battery and R/R is aftermarket). then use the choke after it will start and be really weak at first start until it starts warming up then idle and everything is fine. there is no coolant in oil or oil in coolant all cooling hoses are solid and no smoke out of exhaust. it smells like a normal motorcycle exhaust. my plugs that are brand new are extremely black on the top my buddy says usually that will happen if one is running rich. compression and everything was done by the shop who did the motor swap a month or two ago. once the bike is running it runs like a SOB rips and idle is fine and everything is great minus the cooling system. oh and to mention if i take the plugs out and just wipe them off spray a little carb cleaner on them and dont ride the bike it starts up for days straight. once i ride the bike i turn it off for say 5 minutes it cranks and cranks ill blip the throttle turn on choke and it starts. and xeris wut
08-21-2014, 07:52 PM
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Have you replaced the radiator cap?
Also would pay to pressure test the cooling system.
Take it to a radiator repairer and get him to pressure test the cooling system and your radiator cap.
That way you will know for sure if your cap needs replacing, or you have a coolant leak.
Good luck!
Also would pay to pressure test the cooling system.
Take it to a radiator repairer and get him to pressure test the cooling system and your radiator cap.
That way you will know for sure if your cap needs replacing, or you have a coolant leak.
Good luck!
08-25-2014, 04:43 PM
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Alright smokinjoe ik your the guru always helped me. This is getting very strange. All this only happens when its hot. I put 120 miles round trip on it Saturday when it was cooler ran like a gem.. today its pretty ho I rode it literally 25 mile round trip and went to start it before work and cranks and cranks and cranks. After it cranks for awhile it starts. Slowly but surely isk why its doing this!
08-25-2014, 05:09 PM
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Mystery of the disappearing coolant. How much have you put in so far? A couple of metric meters?
Wait, you can hear it pressure release when you remove the cap? How much can you hear it? If the system is working and hot, it will spew molten coolant all over you and your riding gloves which then turn into leather torture traps that you can't get your hands out fast enough. Your coolant has to be going somewhere... until you find out where I wouldn't venture on to any other diagnosis...
Wait, you can hear it pressure release when you remove the cap? How much can you hear it? If the system is working and hot, it will spew molten coolant all over you and your riding gloves which then turn into leather torture traps that you can't get your hands out fast enough. Your coolant has to be going somewhere... until you find out where I wouldn't venture on to any other diagnosis...
08-25-2014, 05:23 PM
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Mystery of the disappearing coolant. How much have you put in so far? A couple of metric meters?
Wait, you can hear it pressure release when you remove the cap? How much can you hear it? If the system is working and hot, it will spew molten coolant all over you and your riding gloves which then turn into leather torture traps that you can't get your hands out fast enough. Your coolant has to be going somewhere... until you find out where I wouldn't venture on to any other diagnosis...
Wait, you can hear it pressure release when you remove the cap? How much can you hear it? If the system is working and hot, it will spew molten coolant all over you and your riding gloves which then turn into leather torture traps that you can't get your hands out fast enough. Your coolant has to be going somewhere... until you find out where I wouldn't venture on to any other diagnosis...
08-25-2014, 06:31 PM
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A theory. There's a head gasket leak, but it's randomly leaking, not every time. When it leaks the sparkplugs get steamed wet with hot coolant once the engine is shut off. Cranking repeatedly eventually dries the plugs enough to start... Just can't square no oil emulsion nor polluted coolant.
08-25-2014, 08:55 PM
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that is odd to. idk what to try. should i try to change the plugs one for more time and see ? someone else on fireblades said carbs could cause it to. idk what to do. i love the bike but i want something that runs all the time and not have issues! i have tried selling it and noone has even given me offers ha
08-25-2014, 09:50 PM
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I agree crank's theory sounds plausible. But I gotta say you shouldn't ride a bike, get a wet foot and deem that OK. You also can't do this then wonder why you have no coolant.
The acceptable amount of coolant leak is zero. I am starting to wonder what went on with the bike. Did you go to a shop and say "put in a motor"? Then they sourced it and installed it? If so, its on them to make good on their job. Something was done wrong, not connected right, or the motor is bad.
The dilema is you tearing around on it without coolant. That could toast any motor.
It could be a low coolant issue combined with a carb issue. (which would suck).
There are so many variables in that you would need to go back and check every hose connection (for coolant). When I did my motor swap I fine steel wooled every connection and smeared a bit of vaseline to help seating and future removal.
You should start back at 1 if you want to figure it out. Replace the rad cap, (dont care if you swear its great), check EVERY hose clamp, remove right fairing to be sure you are topping off coolant, run it til hot then park it and check for leaks. (While its running)
The system uses pressure to raise the boing point of water. Without said pressure you will boil off the coolant. Check the mating surface on the radiator where the cap sits. Clean it, etc.
Dont fall into the age old mechanics trap of writing something off as already checked. (rad cap for example).
Drain the coolant & check it for debris, oil, or anything. Refill with NEW coolant (distilled water antifreeze 50/50). It could be the rad cap not on correctly.
Cant account for the fouled plugs. When it cranks but wont start, spray some starting fluid in the airbox snorkel to see if that starts it. If so you have a fuel delivery issue too.
The acceptable amount of coolant leak is zero. I am starting to wonder what went on with the bike. Did you go to a shop and say "put in a motor"? Then they sourced it and installed it? If so, its on them to make good on their job. Something was done wrong, not connected right, or the motor is bad.
The dilema is you tearing around on it without coolant. That could toast any motor.
It could be a low coolant issue combined with a carb issue. (which would suck).
There are so many variables in that you would need to go back and check every hose connection (for coolant). When I did my motor swap I fine steel wooled every connection and smeared a bit of vaseline to help seating and future removal.
You should start back at 1 if you want to figure it out. Replace the rad cap, (dont care if you swear its great), check EVERY hose clamp, remove right fairing to be sure you are topping off coolant, run it til hot then park it and check for leaks. (While its running)
The system uses pressure to raise the boing point of water. Without said pressure you will boil off the coolant. Check the mating surface on the radiator where the cap sits. Clean it, etc.
Dont fall into the age old mechanics trap of writing something off as already checked. (rad cap for example).
Drain the coolant & check it for debris, oil, or anything. Refill with NEW coolant (distilled water antifreeze 50/50). It could be the rad cap not on correctly.
Cant account for the fouled plugs. When it cranks but wont start, spray some starting fluid in the airbox snorkel to see if that starts it. If so you have a fuel delivery issue too.
08-26-2014, 02:40 AM
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Just a long shot and nothing to do with coolant loss, but maybe starting.
Is the Throttle Position Sensor hooked up?
Are the carbs seated properly in the inlet manifolds?
Are all wiring connections secured.
Have you checked the coils?
Sorry to say it and I am sure you have done it, search this forum to check all of the above.
It is a process of elimination unfortunately, and frustrating I'm sure.
Good luck, keep us up to date.
Is the Throttle Position Sensor hooked up?
Are the carbs seated properly in the inlet manifolds?
Are all wiring connections secured.
Have you checked the coils?
Sorry to say it and I am sure you have done it, search this forum to check all of the above.
It is a process of elimination unfortunately, and frustrating I'm sure.
Good luck, keep us up to date.
08-26-2014, 02:00 PM
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I agree crank's theory sounds plausible. But I gotta say you shouldn't ride a bike, get a wet foot and deem that OK. You also can't do this then wonder why you have no coolant.
The acceptable amount of coolant leak is zero. I am starting to wonder what went on with the bike. Did you go to a shop and say "put in a motor"? Then they sourced it and installed it? If so, its on them to make good on their job. Something was done wrong, not connected right, or the motor is bad.
The dilema is you tearing around on it without coolant. That could toast any motor.
It could be a low coolant issue combined with a carb issue. (which would suck).
There are so many variables in that you would need to go back and check every hose connection (for coolant). When I did my motor swap I fine steel wooled every connection and smeared a bit of vaseline to help seating and future removal.
You should start back at 1 if you want to figure it out. Replace the rad cap, (dont care if you swear its great), check EVERY hose clamp, remove right fairing to be sure you are topping off coolant, run it til hot then park it and check for leaks. (While its running)
The system uses pressure to raise the boing point of water. Without said pressure you will boil off the coolant. Check the mating surface on the radiator where the cap sits. Clean it, etc.
Dont fall into the age old mechanics trap of writing something off as already checked. (rad cap for example).
Drain the coolant & check it for debris, oil, or anything. Refill with NEW coolant (distilled water antifreeze 50/50). It could be the rad cap not on correctly.
Cant account for the fouled plugs. When it cranks but wont start, spray some starting fluid in the airbox snorkel to see if that starts it. If so you have a fuel delivery issue too.
The acceptable amount of coolant leak is zero. I am starting to wonder what went on with the bike. Did you go to a shop and say "put in a motor"? Then they sourced it and installed it? If so, its on them to make good on their job. Something was done wrong, not connected right, or the motor is bad.
The dilema is you tearing around on it without coolant. That could toast any motor.
It could be a low coolant issue combined with a carb issue. (which would suck).
There are so many variables in that you would need to go back and check every hose connection (for coolant). When I did my motor swap I fine steel wooled every connection and smeared a bit of vaseline to help seating and future removal.
You should start back at 1 if you want to figure it out. Replace the rad cap, (dont care if you swear its great), check EVERY hose clamp, remove right fairing to be sure you are topping off coolant, run it til hot then park it and check for leaks. (While its running)
The system uses pressure to raise the boing point of water. Without said pressure you will boil off the coolant. Check the mating surface on the radiator where the cap sits. Clean it, etc.
Dont fall into the age old mechanics trap of writing something off as already checked. (rad cap for example).
Drain the coolant & check it for debris, oil, or anything. Refill with NEW coolant (distilled water antifreeze 50/50). It could be the rad cap not on correctly.
Cant account for the fouled plugs. When it cranks but wont start, spray some starting fluid in the airbox snorkel to see if that starts it. If so you have a fuel delivery issue too.
alright joe ill replace rad cap remove everything and recheck everything. i appreciate the help. ill reaplce rad cap and plugs and start there see what that does for starters.
08-26-2014, 02:03 PM
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Just a long shot and nothing to do with coolant loss, but maybe starting.
Is the Throttle Position Sensor hooked up?
Are the carbs seated properly in the inlet manifolds?
Are all wiring connections secured.
Have you checked the coils?
Sorry to say it and I am sure you have done it, search this forum to check all of the above.
It is a process of elimination unfortunately, and frustrating I'm sure.
Good luck, keep us up to date.
Is the Throttle Position Sensor hooked up?
Are the carbs seated properly in the inlet manifolds?
Are all wiring connections secured.
Have you checked the coils?
Sorry to say it and I am sure you have done it, search this forum to check all of the above.
It is a process of elimination unfortunately, and frustrating I'm sure.
Good luck, keep us up to date.
one thing i did find weird is that after a long ride and i have a problem i disassembled everything down to carbs. here are like 3 or 4 connectors and they get super warm. not to a melting point but deffinantly hot to the touch are those my coils? im a motorcycle newb not really to familiar with them yet. theyre directly under my seat diretly behind gas tank
Last edited by shadow623_; 08-26-2014 at 02:10 PM.
08-26-2014, 04:11 PM
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Wait, you can hear it pressure release when you remove the cap? How much can you hear it? If the system is working and hot, it will spew molten coolant all over you and your riding gloves which then turn into leather torture traps that you can't get your hands out fast enough.
As Joe forgot to mention it bleeding the cooling system of any airlocks is important, especially when one has been disconnecting coolant hose etc and/or filling from empty. An airlock can cause issues with the fan not kicking, coolant flow blockages and/or pressure issues causing coolant loss. How about the thermostat, is this operating as it should.
Coolant cannot just disappear, it has to go somewhere. I think there may be some carb issues going on here too, but it's hard to tell as the bike is being ridden while overheating which causes a lot of these symptoms until the engine totally dies
I wouldn't rule out a head gasket either.How to bleed the cooling system
1: remove front fairing
2: With the bike on the sidestand and rad cap removed fill the system until it gets to the top ie starts coming out the top of the rad.
3: Bring the bike up to temperature with the rad cap still removed. This will take a while as it takes longer for the thermostat to open as there is no pressure build up.
4: As the bike warms up squeeze as many coolant hoses as you can get to, especially the ones lower down in the system. This helps force any airlocks out and bubbles up through the top/rad cap hole. Also give the bike a rev. You should see the coolant flowing around the system.
5: Switch the engine off, top up fluid to the top and put the rad cap back on. Start the bike up and bring back up to temp until the fan kicks in at roughly just past the halfway mark on the temp gauge.
6: Once you have verified that the fan works, switch off the engine and then top up the coolant level in the expansion bottle to the required level.
7: Put the fairing back on being careful not to catch the connector at the front of the right hand rad.
(:-})
08-26-2014, 05:33 PM
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LOL that was too funny, especially as I was thinking something similar when I read the op's post for checking the pressure.
As Joe forgot to mention it bleeding the cooling system of any airlocks is important, especially when one has been disconnecting coolant hose etc and/or filling from empty. An airlock can cause issues with the fan not kicking, coolant flow blockages and/or pressure issues causing coolant loss. How about the thermostat, is this operating as it should.
Coolant cannot just disappear, it has to go somewhere. I think there may be some carb issues going on here too, but it's hard to tell as the bike is being ridden while overheating which causes a lot of these symptoms until the engine totally dies I wouldn't rule out a head gasket either.
How to bleed the cooling system
1: remove front fairing
2: With the bike on the sidestand and rad cap removed fill the system until it gets to the top ie starts coming out the top of the rad.
3: Bring the bike up to temperature with the rad cap still removed. This will take a while as it takes longer for the thermostat to open as there is no pressure build up.
4: As the bike warms up squeeze as many coolant hoses as you can get to, especially the ones lower down in the system. This helps force any airlocks out and bubbles up through the top/rad cap hole. Also give the bike a rev. You should see the coolant flowing around the system.
5: Switch the engine off, top up fluid to the top and put the rad cap back on. Start the bike up and bring back up to temp until the fan kicks in at roughly just past the halfway mark on the temp gauge.
6: Once you have verified that the fan works, switch off the engine and then top up the coolant level in the expansion bottle to the required level.
7: Put the fairing back on being careful not to catch the connector at the front of the right hand rad.
(:-})
As Joe forgot to mention it bleeding the cooling system of any airlocks is important, especially when one has been disconnecting coolant hose etc and/or filling from empty. An airlock can cause issues with the fan not kicking, coolant flow blockages and/or pressure issues causing coolant loss. How about the thermostat, is this operating as it should.
Coolant cannot just disappear, it has to go somewhere. I think there may be some carb issues going on here too, but it's hard to tell as the bike is being ridden while overheating which causes a lot of these symptoms until the engine totally dies
I wouldn't rule out a head gasket either.How to bleed the cooling system
1: remove front fairing
2: With the bike on the sidestand and rad cap removed fill the system until it gets to the top ie starts coming out the top of the rad.
3: Bring the bike up to temperature with the rad cap still removed. This will take a while as it takes longer for the thermostat to open as there is no pressure build up.
4: As the bike warms up squeeze as many coolant hoses as you can get to, especially the ones lower down in the system. This helps force any airlocks out and bubbles up through the top/rad cap hole. Also give the bike a rev. You should see the coolant flowing around the system.
5: Switch the engine off, top up fluid to the top and put the rad cap back on. Start the bike up and bring back up to temp until the fan kicks in at roughly just past the halfway mark on the temp gauge.
6: Once you have verified that the fan works, switch off the engine and then top up the coolant level in the expansion bottle to the required level.
7: Put the fairing back on being careful not to catch the connector at the front of the right hand rad.
(:-})
08-26-2014, 11:22 PM
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im gonna do coils/wires/plugs when i get the chance...............
cooling system i can smell coolant like a little but i do not see a single wet drop anywhere. none in the bottom pan where i used to see it before i fixed the first leak and none leaking from carbs or nothing. havent been hot enough for fan to turn on so i wont know if it comes on. ill keep ya posted
cooling system i can smell coolant like a little but i do not see a single wet drop anywhere. none in the bottom pan where i used to see it before i fixed the first leak and none leaking from carbs or nothing. havent been hot enough for fan to turn on so i wont know if it comes on. ill keep ya posted
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