VTR Fork Socket Bolt Spinning with Oil Lock Piece
05-08-2010, 02:33 PM
#1
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VTR Fork Socket Bolt Spinning with Oil Lock Piece
hi.
i've heard of this happening to other people and felt very sorry for them, but it never happened to me after 3, or so separate fork disassemblies until now.
i compressed that fork with all its innards about as far is it will travel and that socket
bolt just spins when i pop the drill with hex bit on it.
does anyone have a crafty, inventive method for getting out of this problematic situation without resorting to distruction of the fork slider?
thanks!
--fred
i've heard of this happening to other people and felt very sorry for them, but it never happened to me after 3, or so separate fork disassemblies until now.
i compressed that fork with all its innards about as far is it will travel and that socket
bolt just spins when i pop the drill with hex bit on it.
does anyone have a crafty, inventive method for getting out of this problematic situation without resorting to distruction of the fork slider?
thanks!
--fred
05-08-2010, 03:09 PM
#3
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Location: Skurup, Sweden
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If you are talking about the bolt at the bottom like inde said, there is a easy trick... Put the fork back together and loosen the bolt before you disassemble it... But that might be too easy... I always do that to keep this from happening...
05-08-2010, 03:36 PM
#4
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impact on an assembled fork, using the start up torque of the gun (not constant running) which capitalizes on the static friction levels(of the interior components) which are almost always higher than the dynamic friction levels.
05-08-2010, 04:02 PM
#6
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Yup. +4
If you're using an air impact gun and it's still turning without coming out, compress the fork as much as possible, remembering of course to protect the top with a few layers of rags or better.
If you're using an air impact gun and it's still turning without coming out, compress the fork as much as possible, remembering of course to protect the top with a few layers of rags or better.
Last edited by inderocker; 05-08-2010 at 04:05 PM.
05-08-2010, 05:51 PM
#8
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cool, thanks for all the replies!! i don't have an impact wrench...
i'll try and find one to borrow tomorrow.
i did get the first one out. i think after enough fork oil soaked on the threads it loosened. and i did some lateral torque with my drill and backed it out. the other one is being a bit more stubborn. i'll use a bit less red locktite when i put 'em back together them time!
i'll try and find one to borrow tomorrow.
i did get the first one out. i think after enough fork oil soaked on the threads it loosened. and i did some lateral torque with my drill and backed it out. the other one is being a bit more stubborn. i'll use a bit less red locktite when i put 'em back together them time!
05-08-2010, 05:58 PM
#9
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Location: Skurup, Sweden
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Use the loctite... It's good practice not to loose bolts that hold important stuff when on the move...
But like I said, break the bolts loose before disassembly next time... If that's step one, you will have an even better chance than after making them spin and then doing the whole reassembly to get them loose...
But like I said, break the bolts loose before disassembly next time... If that's step one, you will have an even better chance than after making them spin and then doing the whole reassembly to get them loose...
05-09-2010, 12:55 PM
#10
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well, i got the impact driver... a little bit late, i'm afraid. i have the fork compressed very far with the fork slider in a vice and the hex bolt won't come free from the compression valve body. it just spinds no matter what unmentionable angular torque i apply to it. luckily, since i originally rebuilt these from a front end i'd picked up on ebay, i have a spare lower fork case for whatever side is stuck. i guess it's time to pull out the angle-grinder. this should be fun. maybe i'll post a picture.
05-09-2010, 04:19 PM
#13
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HEY, stop, no grinder!!!!
If you cannot get the screw out, the easiest way (and I have done this at least 5 times in the last three years on forks) is to drill the bolt. If you use a drill bit that is slightly larger than the threads/smaller than the head of the bolt, you can drill until it pops the head off. Once you do that, you can remove the lower leg and get the bolt out of the inner piston. dont grind!!!!
If you cannot get the screw out, the easiest way (and I have done this at least 5 times in the last three years on forks) is to drill the bolt. If you use a drill bit that is slightly larger than the threads/smaller than the head of the bolt, you can drill until it pops the head off. Once you do that, you can remove the lower leg and get the bolt out of the inner piston. dont grind!!!!
05-09-2010, 05:09 PM
#15
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HEY, stop, no grinder!!!!
If you cannot get the screw out, the easiest way (and I have done this at least 5 times in the last three years on forks) is to drill the bolt. If you use a drill bit that is slightly larger than the threads/smaller than the head of the bolt, you can drill until it pops the head off. Once you do that, you can remove the lower leg and get the bolt out of the inner piston. dont grind!!!!
If you cannot get the screw out, the easiest way (and I have done this at least 5 times in the last three years on forks) is to drill the bolt. If you use a drill bit that is slightly larger than the threads/smaller than the head of the bolt, you can drill until it pops the head off. Once you do that, you can remove the lower leg and get the bolt out of the inner piston. dont grind!!!!
thanks,
--fred
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