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Voltage regulator question

Old 12-14-2018, 05:26 PM
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Voltage regulator question

So...in my bag of tricks I have a brandy new regulator from Ricks IIRC, for my Triumph. Only issue is that it has 2 red(+) and 2 black (-) for output. In the diagram it shows that they are simply joined back together, why on earth would they use 2 of each only to join back to one. FWIW, the Ricks is the same as the OEM.

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Old 12-15-2018, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ACE VenTRa View Post
So...in my bag of tricks I have a brandy new regulator from Ricks IIRC, for my Triumph. Only issue is that it has 2 red(+) and 2 black (-) for output. In the diagram it shows that they are simply joined back together, why on earth would they use 2 of each only to join back to one. FWIW, the Ricks is the same as the OEM.

Thanks


Without a technical diagram of the circuit its just guessing//. but Id say the design has two output legs and rather then join them internally some Chinese designer decided to do so externally.
Was it marketed as a MOFSET design or Diode based? Regardless of marketing Im betting its a diode based RR and as failure prone as what came out of that bike.

Ive done dozens of MOSFET installs on triumphs as well as VFR and VTR. Triumph actually has a factor MOD cable and MOSFET upgrade for their modern bikes that came with a failure prone diode based RR. The issue I have with it is, it reuses open unsealed plugs, adds several connectors and wire length...its basically an adapter harness. Its plug and play, but not the better way IMHO
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Old 12-16-2018, 04:50 AM
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Well, it seems as though an experiment is in order. I shall butcher this unit to see if it will power the Hawk. Also, on the Hawk, the OEM stator wire terminates at a 3 blade that corresponds to the wire I have on this Triumph unit. Just as a thought, if in the future the RR kits had longer wires that plug in there, it would eliminate one more possible failure point. Unless that has been addressed already, I've never seen the kit up close.

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Old 12-16-2018, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by ACE VenTRa View Post
Well, it seems as though an experiment is in order. I shall butcher this unit to see if it will power the Hawk. Also, on the Hawk, the OEM stator wire terminates at a 3 blade that corresponds to the wire I have on this Triumph unit. Just as a thought, if in the future the RR kits had longer wires that plug in there, it would eliminate one more possible failure point. Unless that has been addressed already, I've never seen the kit up close.

AV
Which kit are you asking about? My VTR kit of Triumphs OEM upgrade kit?

If my kit, yes its addressed, only the factory stator wires coming off the stator itself are reused. For the positive side, RR to battery are a new clean run of 12ga Ancor wire from the sealed RR connector to a marine rated circuit breaker to a heavy gauge brass ring terminal at the battery. The Negative side, its a single new wire from the Sealed RR plug to a heavy gauge brass ring terminal at the battery.

That RR you have WILL power the VTR the question is how long and what will it take out when it dies?

Did you get it from This Rick's? https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com
Or one of the other like named places?
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Old 12-16-2018, 06:55 AM
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I checked through my history on fleabay and it's apparently a recetech electric mosfet that fits ducati, triumph and a few others. I can't see any reason why (based on wiring diagram) that it can fit just fine on the hawk. What's the worst that could happen? In fact, I still have an old RR from my Bandit 400 that I used as a diag tool for suspected bad RR's. Small as it was I used on everything from Cavalcades to CBR's. That's been around for quite some time with no issues.

Thoughts?
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Old 12-16-2018, 03:21 PM
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It will like work..
Do you have a part number for it?
Hard to tell from the web site which one it might bee.
Needs to handle at least 25 amps

Three yellow wires to your three stator wires in any order.
cut the charge wire plug off, using high quality 12ga wire extend the ground one to your battery terminating with thick brass 6mm ring terminals.
Get a
Sea Dog 35 amp circuit breaker Sea Dog 35 amp circuit breaker
and put it near the battery, Extend the positive charge wires with a single 12ga wire to the breaker, using 5mm brass ring terminals, then other side of beaker to the battery positive post. Protect all those joints with double wall adhesive lined heat shrink tube.

Fire the bike up and check charge voltage at idle, and then ever 1K up to your normal cruise RPM.

Its not a question of will it work, but how long and how well.

Not seen a after market off shore sourced RR that was actually a MOSFET design, they all have been cheap diode based things that worked ok for a bit, and then burned up or otherwise failed internally.
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