Here: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=11275

calitoz had that happen, an in the bold print of that thread he talks about how to fix it.

 

I drew this up the first time I had to shim the valves

 

Riff - that's great! Would love to have a full-sized copy. Can you PM the file, or something?

 

Been there done that too. I also learned the hard way to pull the valve covers off before removing the stock CCTs. Mine ended up jumping two teeth. GL

 

I sorted it, then fooked it again! hahahaa

dropped a bolt into engine, yes im numb as f**k. So , i look into engine, and looks like it may well have gone direct into sump, went to take zaust off so i can get to the sump etc, snapped both studs in the head

gutted

so, im gonna drop the engine and rebuild it all, etc, seems pretty easy

thanks for your help guys!

Col

 

Hi,

I tried to do valve clearance check, but ran into problems while trying to align timing marks.

I have tried many times while reading service manual again and again wihtout success. First I was thinking that cam chain have jumped a lot and I started to check if piston could have hit valves. So I started to draw similar picture as seen above. I added my findings to same picture (below). It seems that my flywheel is somehow 1/4 turn off??

I also have somekind of "self-made" mark.

So the "RT" mark is aligned when Front cyl is in TDC (also "F-I" and "F-E" alinged with cyl head) and that "self-made"-mark is aligned when rear cyl is in TDC.

I am confused what shoud I do next. Shoud I just start the engine and enjoy while it last??
or shoud I tear the whole engine apart and look for something?

.:Riku.
-97 VTR

 

How are you determining the piston is at TDC? Are you making an assumption based on the markings on the cam sprockets? Or are you eye-balling the piston through the spark plug hole? If you have not eye-balled it yet, go back and spin the engine a few more times and now see if the flywheel markings really do coincide with what you are veiwing through the spark plug opening.

 

I have eye-balled it through the spark plug hole. So I could be few degrees off from real TDC.

.:Riku.

 

Well mister, that's fooked! You've got no choice but compensate by 90º early and trust that new marker on the flywheel. I'm at a loss to explain how this could be? The only crank I've ever torn down was in a 8hp Briggs snowblower engine, and it's all keyed on the shaft so there was no way to reassmble it 90º out.

 

The connecting rod is bent like a pretzel ?