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timing?

Old 07-15-2016, 11:03 AM
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timing?

what would the symptoms be for my hawk if perhaps the timing chain slipped a tooth? Reason I ask is because I've had my bike in the shop for this and the mechanic has finally given up trying to figure it out. Originally the bike went in for carb rebuild. after that and a few other small odds and ends, the bike was not running right when I picked it up. basically, it has a miss and some backfiring through the carb on occasion. he's checked electrical things, including throttle position sensor and coils. any thoughts?
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:49 PM
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Carb fart is quite normal - just make sure carbs are balanced and that idle is set to around 1200 to reduce risk of it stalling when hiccupping in low speed tight turns.
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Old 07-15-2016, 09:23 PM
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Also make sure the carbs are seated correctly and there is no vacuum leak around the carb isolators.
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Old 07-16-2016, 06:43 AM
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Why do suspect cam timing? Did a CCT fail? A bit more history would be helpful.
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Old 07-18-2016, 01:34 AM
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For your own peace of mind, why not pull the cam covers and check the indexing of the cam sprockets to the crank? On the back head at least, it's a pretty painless task. There are inscribed lines on the cam sprocket that will sit exactly parallel to the gasket surface when the crank is lined up to an index mark.
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by xeris View Post
Why do suspect cam timing? Did a CCT fail? A bit more history would be helpful.
no real history of problems to speak of. I have had this bike for 5 or 6 years. used it for track days and general riding on the street. the bike sat up for a year while I was going through a couple of moves. after I got it out of storage, I had a local shop rebuild the carbs to freshen them up. after putting them back togehter, there's been a miss. just putting along at city speeds it will have a somewhat rhythmic miss. they took it back in, checked vacuum, and a host of other things. they have finally given up on it, saying they don't know what else to check and suggested taking it to a honda specialist.

given the symptoms, I'm concerned with valve open/close operations. it has never had valve clearance checked. for some reason these guys didn't want to do that. I'm just looking for ideas to start troubleshooting before I decide what to do next.
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Cadbury64 View Post
For your own peace of mind, why not pull the cam covers and check the indexing of the cam sprockets to the crank? On the back head at least, it's a pretty painless task. There are inscribed lines on the cam sprocket that will sit exactly parallel to the gasket surface when the crank is lined up to an index mark.
on the list.....thanks!
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:06 AM
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The bike sat for a year or more. Had a local shop rebuild the carbs. Now the bike has running issues.
You don't need to be Sherlock Holmes to figure this one out.
Not being a dick, but don't make a problem more complicated than it is.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by xeris View Post
The bike sat for a year or more. Had a local shop rebuild the carbs. Now the bike has running issues.
You don't need to be Sherlock Holmes to figure this one out.
Not being a dick, but don't make a problem more complicated than it is.

Yeah, I understand that, but not quite so easy. these guys are very good at what they do. they just can't diagnose this any further. it had these symptoms, but very slight, when it was running. they have checked and rechecked the settings, plus vacuum leaks. I did the same the old fashioned way with carb spray while running. no idle changes. Frankly, there's no turning back from the carb rebuild at this point. so I can only move forward and try to diagnose the problems. they also cleaned up and repaired an exhaust leak I had to be sure that didn't have any influence on the problem.
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Yeller View Post
Yeah, I understand that, but not quite so easy. these guys are very good at what they do. they just can't diagnose this any further. it had these symptoms, but very slight, when it was running. they have checked and rechecked the settings, plus vacuum leaks. I did the same the old fashioned way with carb spray while running. no idle changes. Frankly, there's no turning back from the carb rebuild at this point. so I can only move forward and try to diagnose the problems. they also cleaned up and repaired an exhaust leak I had to be sure that didn't have any influence on the problem.
Are you saying that when the bike was put into storage that the running issues were present then?
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:56 AM
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there was some slight burbling and miss, but it's been exagerated with the freshing of the carbs.
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Old 07-25-2016, 05:02 PM
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If it is almost rhythmic, then I would look at the needle valve in the float bowl.
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Old 07-26-2016, 12:29 PM
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it's not rhythmic. that's whats frustrating. it'll run fine, then hiccup, then hiccup, then fine for a few seconds, then again.
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Old 07-26-2016, 01:48 PM
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Given the bike's history I would suggest that pulling electrical connectors apart and cleaning any corrosion might be worthwhile. I had an issue with a midrange misfire (on my ST1100) that I was sure was carbs, turned out to be corrosion on the red connector that feeds power to/from the right bar switches and then to the ignition, leading to a weak spark.
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:02 PM
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I had a similar issue and it turned out that the kick stand switch was vibrating, engaging and trying to kill the motor while I was riding. Not enough to set off the dash light, but it kept hiccupping intermittently as well.
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Old 07-26-2016, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by drgreenthumb04 View Post
I had a similar issue and it turned out that the kick stand switch was vibrating, engaging and trying to kill the motor while I was riding. Not enough to set off the dash light, but it kept hiccupping intermittently as well.
Me to. Back when I put my bike together for the first time, my kickstand (sidestand) switch was bad and the bike cut out at the worst of times. Quite embarrassing when it would quit at a stop light and I couldn't get it going. But it also did happen while running at a constant speed. Bumps wouldn't set it off, it was more the vibration of the bike that did it.

Attached a couple leads from my multimeter and found it was the switch. Instead of buying a new one, I took it apart and cleaned it, then put dielectric grease on the contacts. Never had a problem after that.

Check the switch. If it isn't, at least we can rule that out.
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:27 AM
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Now THAT is an interesting one. I'm amazed you were able to find that.
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