Super hawk won't start when hot,please help
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 99
Super hawk won't start when hot,please help
Have a 98 Superhawk. Cleaned carbs air filter everything.fuel lines.bike fires on first start cold. Runs like a beast no problems. Won't fire hot.seems like the battery is too weak. Battery tested fine. No draw anywhere,checked regulator stator. All fuses everything checks out fine. Where do i go from here
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,707
From: Essex, UK
Inspect at the starter motor and the lead from the relay - esp under the rubber hood for corrosion on the terminal.
Another thing to check is that the terminals on the battery are nice and tight and clean.
Have you got a multimeter?
Another thing to check is that the terminals on the battery are nice and tight and clean.
Have you got a multimeter?
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,066
From: NYC
DO NOT get me started on the "no hot start" problem.
I have a huge thread on here about my saga with it. Suspects are sidestand switch, clutch switch, starter motor, starter switch, starter relay, battery condition and connections.
If you push the starter and it seems weak you can add regulator rectifier to the list.
Oh, and the choke fittings could be cracked which would make it start better cold than hot.
When the bike is running, check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should be above the voltage when sitting but not way above.
Also try wacking the starter with a wrench when its hot and wont start. If it helps, its likely the starter motor.
If its trying to turn over its not any of the safety switches.
For me it was the side stand switch. All of these parts are cheap on ebay so its not an expensive fix once you find it.
I have a huge thread on here about my saga with it. Suspects are sidestand switch, clutch switch, starter motor, starter switch, starter relay, battery condition and connections.
If you push the starter and it seems weak you can add regulator rectifier to the list.
Oh, and the choke fittings could be cracked which would make it start better cold than hot.
When the bike is running, check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should be above the voltage when sitting but not way above.
Also try wacking the starter with a wrench when its hot and wont start. If it helps, its likely the starter motor.
If its trying to turn over its not any of the safety switches.
For me it was the side stand switch. All of these parts are cheap on ebay so its not an expensive fix once you find it.
VTR virgin
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 447
From: Auckland, New Zealand
I don't understand the physics of it, but failing batteries work well cold but don't have much oomph when hot. Before you get stuck into lots of diagnostics, try jump starting the bike when it is hot from a car battery. Edit: like Wolverine suggested...
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 99
I can push start it and it fires right up,if it's hot..nothing internal changed so far.no work done to ccts that i know if. Bought it after sitting in garage for about a year. Changed everything i could think of.
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 99
Inspect at the starter motor and the lead from the relay - esp under the rubber hood for corrosion on the terminal. Checked starter
Another thing to check is that the terminals on the battery are nice and tight and clean.
All terminals are nice tight and brand new
Have you got a multimeter?
Another thing to check is that the terminals on the battery are nice and tight and clean.
All terminals are nice tight and brand new
Have you got a multimeter?
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 99
DO NOT get me started on the "no hot start" problem.
I have a huge thread on here about my saga with it. Suspects are sidestand switch, clutch switch, starter motor, starter switch, starter relay, battery condition and connections.
Side stand switch brand new and working fine. Same for clutch switch, starter switch, starter realay,battery brand new (already bought 2) and connections perfect
If you push the starter and it seems weak you can add regulator rectifier to the list.
Regulator rectifier all reads with 2 of for all prongs.
Oh, and the choke fittings could be cracked which would make it start better cold than hot.
I'll have to check this one out
When the bike is running, check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should be above the voltage when sitting but not way above. Yes above 13.5 I believe to 13.8
Also try wacking the starter with a wrench when its hot and wont start. If it helps, its likely the starter motor.
Havnt done this I'll check,thankyou
If its trying to turn over its not any of the safety switches.
It's trying to turn over just seems like battery doesn't have enough juice when it's hot.give it ten min fired perfect.cold fire prefect. Idles great runs great
For me it was the side stand switch. All of these parts are cheap on ebay so its not an expensive fix once you find it.
I have a huge thread on here about my saga with it. Suspects are sidestand switch, clutch switch, starter motor, starter switch, starter relay, battery condition and connections.
Side stand switch brand new and working fine. Same for clutch switch, starter switch, starter realay,battery brand new (already bought 2) and connections perfect
If you push the starter and it seems weak you can add regulator rectifier to the list.
Regulator rectifier all reads with 2 of for all prongs.
Oh, and the choke fittings could be cracked which would make it start better cold than hot.
I'll have to check this one out
When the bike is running, check the voltage on the battery terminals. It should be above the voltage when sitting but not way above. Yes above 13.5 I believe to 13.8
Also try wacking the starter with a wrench when its hot and wont start. If it helps, its likely the starter motor.
Havnt done this I'll check,thankyou
If its trying to turn over its not any of the safety switches.
It's trying to turn over just seems like battery doesn't have enough juice when it's hot.give it ten min fired perfect.cold fire prefect. Idles great runs great
For me it was the side stand switch. All of these parts are cheap on ebay so its not an expensive fix once you find it.
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,066
From: NYC
Sounds like a bad battery but jump starting with a car is not the best idea since you can overload circuits and cause damage. Plus that only tells you that you'd be fine if only you carry a car battery with you.
Do you have a smart charger for the battery? You should fully overnight charge the battery (buy a charger you need it anyway). Check and clean terminals.
I am gonna say its a bad battery no matter how good you think it tested.
If you have access to a jumper pack use that.
Do you have a smart charger for the battery? You should fully overnight charge the battery (buy a charger you need it anyway). Check and clean terminals.
I am gonna say its a bad battery no matter how good you think it tested.
If you have access to a jumper pack use that.
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 99
Sounds like a bad battery but jump starting with a car is not the best idea since you can overload circuits and cause damage. Plus that only tells you that you'd be fine if only you carry a car battery with you.
Do you have a smart charger for the battery? You should fully overnight charge the battery (buy a charger you need it anyway). Check and clean terminals.
I am gonna say its a bad battery no matter how good you think it tested.
If you have access to a jumper pack use that.
Do you have a smart charger for the battery? You should fully overnight charge the battery (buy a charger you need it anyway). Check and clean terminals.
I am gonna say its a bad battery no matter how good you think it tested.
If you have access to a jumper pack use that.
Moderator
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,221
From: Gettysburg, Pa
I wouldn't try to pursue a "better" battery either. Have you tried testing charge voltage after the bike (and r/r) is fully hot? If it's not being charged properly, you need to start looking into the stator and r/r as possible suspects. Like Joe mentioned, it could be quite a few things, but it sounds as if you are not getting a good charge after the bike has been started then getting warm. R/r's, especially the old kind, dislike heat. What area do you live?
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 99
I disagree and... I didn't recommend a large car battery to do the deed.
I wouldn't try to pursue a "better" battery either. Have you tried testing charge voltage after the bike (and r/r) is fully hot? If it's not being charged properly, you need to start looking into the stator and r/r as possible suspects. Like Joe mentioned, it could be quite a few things, but it sounds as if you are not getting a good charge after the bike has been started then getting warm. R/r's, especially the old kind, dislike heat. What area do you live?
I wouldn't try to pursue a "better" battery either. Have you tried testing charge voltage after the bike (and r/r) is fully hot? If it's not being charged properly, you need to start looking into the stator and r/r as possible suspects. Like Joe mentioned, it could be quite a few things, but it sounds as if you are not getting a good charge after the bike has been started then getting warm. R/r's, especially the old kind, dislike heat. What area do you live?
Retired- but not tired!
SuperBike
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,481
From: Pittsburgh
I'd add possible open winding in starter motor to the suspect list. In this condition when cold & compact the armature flows current normally, but once heated expands to create an open resulting in weakened cranking power.
Moderator
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,221
From: Gettysburg, Pa
Hot climate.... I'm going to go out on a limb here and say you may have a failing R/R. Is it the original?
IMO, now is the perfect time to swap it to a newer MOSFET model. This mod is more than likely going to need done at some point anyway.
r1-r6-regulator-rectifier-swap
IMO, now is the perfect time to swap it to a newer MOSFET model. This mod is more than likely going to need done at some point anyway.
r1-r6-regulator-rectifier-swap
Administrator
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 4,402
From: Kempner, TX
You are headed down the road of disappointment..
Random parts swapping and non logical step by step complete diagnosis of an electrical issue sis the fastest way to a mental breakdown as you get to the end and still have the issue thinking "well now what".
Charge the battery over night on a charger, not a tender, a battery charger made for powersports batteries.
What after the battery has charged and rested 12 hours what is the resting voltage?
A good battery in full charge after resting about 12 hours will show 12.6v
If not the battery is suspect..
Have it load tested.
Assuming its not the battery, or was and it was replaced..
When the bike fails to start is when you need to do your diag.
What is the key on bat voltage?
What does bat voltage drop to when you try and start?
When you push starter button are you getting full bat voltage at the positive terminal at starter? If yes, then you have a starter issue, worn brushes or broken brush to terminal wires.
If no voltage or very low, check the starter relay... do you have full voltage on the power side? do you have full voltage on the triggered relay side?
If no or low voltage on the power side of relay, but full 12.6 voltage at the battery you have a cable issue.
There is more depending on what you find
Random parts swapping and non logical step by step complete diagnosis of an electrical issue sis the fastest way to a mental breakdown as you get to the end and still have the issue thinking "well now what".
Charge the battery over night on a charger, not a tender, a battery charger made for powersports batteries.
What after the battery has charged and rested 12 hours what is the resting voltage?
A good battery in full charge after resting about 12 hours will show 12.6v
If not the battery is suspect..
Have it load tested.
Assuming its not the battery, or was and it was replaced..
When the bike fails to start is when you need to do your diag.
What is the key on bat voltage?
What does bat voltage drop to when you try and start?
When you push starter button are you getting full bat voltage at the positive terminal at starter? If yes, then you have a starter issue, worn brushes or broken brush to terminal wires.
If no voltage or very low, check the starter relay... do you have full voltage on the power side? do you have full voltage on the triggered relay side?
If no or low voltage on the power side of relay, but full 12.6 voltage at the battery you have a cable issue.
There is more depending on what you find
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