2.0 radiator cap
05-19-2017, 05:00 PM
#1
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Squid
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Join Date: May 2017
Location: Queen creek az
Posts: 37
2.0 radiator cap
i am looking for a usa based company to buy new radiator hoses and cap 2.0 for my super hawk and can not find any place on line i live in az queen creek and every shop i have called can only get a 1.1 i all ready have new radiators incoming
05-19-2017, 05:56 PM
#2
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
If you want stock parts (sorry I have no idea by what you mean with 2.0 and 1.1) then go to Partzilla and order up.
If you are referring to 2.0 bar opening pressure, then you must be planning on allowing the bike to run much hotter than stock, and I'm not sure why you would do that. A 1.1 bar cap will allow water/glycol to reach 270F/130C, which is into the red zone on the temperature gauge.
If you are referring to 2.0 bar opening pressure, then you must be planning on allowing the bike to run much hotter than stock, and I'm not sure why you would do that. A 1.1 bar cap will allow water/glycol to reach 270F/130C, which is into the red zone on the temperature gauge.
05-19-2017, 06:02 PM
#3
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Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Queen creek az
Posts: 37
i was told by a mechanic that i should look.for a radiator cap with 2.0 on it becuase i live in a very hot climit and it will help reduce my bike temp will decress the boiling point so now i am lost and yes the 2.0 means bars so please i have looked at the fourm here and found a few post but not sure what to make on this
05-19-2017, 06:13 PM
#4
VTR virgin
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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The higher pressure cap won't keep the bike any cooler, it will just extend the upper temperature before localised boiling starts in the engine.
Without a decent radiator cap the coolant boils at 225F, and when that happens the coolant gets blown out of the reservoir tank.
To keep the engine temp down, make sure you have a decently working cap, and that the radiator is clean and free of lots of kinked fins so the airflow is maximised. Some folk also add a manual override switch for the radiator fan so they can flick this on in traffic and start the cooling process earlier.
Without a decent radiator cap the coolant boils at 225F, and when that happens the coolant gets blown out of the reservoir tank.
To keep the engine temp down, make sure you have a decently working cap, and that the radiator is clean and free of lots of kinked fins so the airflow is maximised. Some folk also add a manual override switch for the radiator fan so they can flick this on in traffic and start the cooling process earlier.
05-19-2017, 06:22 PM
#5
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Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Queen creek az
Posts: 37
well i am waiting for brand new radiators to put on and new hoses as well any idea on the switch placement and if there are any videos on how to do that. it is one of the thingd i want to do as well
05-20-2017, 12:46 AM
#6
VTR virgin
Superstock
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 446
The basic circuit for the radiator fan comes from the battery, through the fan motor then through the thermoswitch on the radiator and back to ground. So the fan always has a positive feed with the ignition on, it only activates when the thermoswitch closes at around 212F. If you splice a new cable into the lead that terminates at the female spade at the thermoswitch, then take your new cable and put a switch in it, then terminate to a good chassis ground you should have a manually switchable fan.
05-20-2017, 02:33 PM
#7
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
If you are getting the "racing" rads, you will need to make the cross tube longer. I used an aluminum pipe piece to do it. Also I don't remember if those rads took the same cap. They might but they sure don't accept the fan switch. You have to go fish for that. I posted on here where I found it. Its a totally different size than the stocker.
05-22-2017, 10:14 AM
#14
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Location: Kempner, TX
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Rad caps are rated at "Bar" or "LB" or both.
1.1 Bar (16 lbs) Cap
2.0 Bar (29 lbs) cap
The VTR comes with a 1.1 bar cap
We get about 2-3 degrees of temp increase before boil over for every psi increase of the cooling system.|
So using a 1.1 bar cap we make the average boiling point of a stock cooling system somewhere closer to around 257-260 degrees.
Using a 2.0 bar cap we make the average boiling point of a stock cooling system somewhere closer to around 270-299 degrees.
The motor is not staying cooler, your just raising the boil over point....and of course the cooling system pressure.
STANT brand makes a ton of Japanese rad caps, the Auto world has one that fits..I don't have the PN off hand.
A re-branded Stant cap here http://www.ebay.com/itm/400985232182...466&rmvSB=true for $22 will get you that 2.0 bar cap
EDIT I "think" it is the Stant 10363 Racing Radiator Cap - 28-32 lb. Load Capacity, but you need to confirm that
1.1 Bar (16 lbs) Cap
2.0 Bar (29 lbs) cap
The VTR comes with a 1.1 bar cap
We get about 2-3 degrees of temp increase before boil over for every psi increase of the cooling system.|
So using a 1.1 bar cap we make the average boiling point of a stock cooling system somewhere closer to around 257-260 degrees.
Using a 2.0 bar cap we make the average boiling point of a stock cooling system somewhere closer to around 270-299 degrees.
The motor is not staying cooler, your just raising the boil over point....and of course the cooling system pressure.
STANT brand makes a ton of Japanese rad caps, the Auto world has one that fits..I don't have the PN off hand.
A re-branded Stant cap here http://www.ebay.com/itm/400985232182...466&rmvSB=true for $22 will get you that 2.0 bar cap
EDIT I "think" it is the Stant 10363 Racing Radiator Cap - 28-32 lb. Load Capacity, but you need to confirm that
Last edited by E.Marquez; 05-22-2017 at 10:19 AM.
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