Hi All,
I have a question about which setting to use. I’m doing a fork swap so I have CBR1000 forks with 954 triples and All *****. The steering head adjusting nut torque is 18 ftlbs for the VTR, but 14 ftlbs. for the CBR. I have it at 18 now, but it seems a little tight. Without forks or steering stem nut installed I get just over 3.5 lb pull on the fish scale. Should I go with the 14 ftlb figure? Or install everything and see where it all sits. When I pulled the stock forks off, things were definitely looser, but the bearings could have been worn or misadjusted. Thanks.

 

My experience with this is that you install a little on the tight side and let it seat in. I thought I had mine just perfect on my last build only to have it loosen after a few miles and it really messed up my handling.

Jacked it up - torqued it tight and the bike handled wonderfully. Regrettably, I didn't get it tight enough as it has settled again.

I have even considered buying the special socket tool for tightening the next time.

 

Hi Nuhawk,
I didn't price out that special tool, but I did have a large 12 point socket that actually fit. I'll get the size of it later for anyone interested. Before I read your reply, I realized I was a little vague in my description. When I said "it seems a little tight" I was referring to the triple tree moving from lock to lock (not how much I tightened the adjuster nut). The triple moves smoothly but with a firm resistance. If I was to push it quickly, it will stop moving as soon as I let go.

 

So the socket I used to tighten the steering stem adjuster was a 1 11/16" 12 point socket. It's a little loose on the nut, but it does work, maybe a 1 5/8" would fit better if it isn't too small. Sears has them online for $20. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947784000P Oh, you'd need an adaptor from 3/4" to whatever size torque wrench you have.

Quick edit: The 1 11/16" socket only works with the 4 slot adjuster nut. It is too small for the 8 slot nut.

 

I used the little trick from the CBR shop manual (I think?)... a meter (pullie thinge with a spring, cant remeber the name) that you measure how much it takes to turn the triple/handlebar... it worked out good... but feels like I might need to tighten it a tad now after some fun miles...

Gregw... Did you grind off the backside of the steering stops on the lower triple? otherwise they hit the mount for the front fairing stay before the stops, making it tight... Also needs to move back the rads a tad...

 

Hi Tweety,
Thanks for reminding me. Yes and yes. I moved the rads back 7/8" and rotated the top radiator hose 90° or so. Yesterday I worked on the lower brackets for the rads and fairing. I was able to use most of the left bracket, just adding a new tab and tube. The right side needed to be made from scratch though since the fan shroud was getting in the way. Not my best work, but no one will see them.

 

I'd stick with the higher torque as I've found the tapered roller bearings to like the extra preload.

 

Tapping into this thread ... I've replaced my steering bearings several times and I'm rarely able to get the two locking rings below the top triple tightened right. I don't have the special tool for those rings and instead use finger tightening and tapping with a screw driver (I know, I'm a butcher). What is the best method to do this?

 

Well, if you're replacing bearings a lot because the nut isn't getting tight enough, I'd buy the tool. It will pay for itself if the bearings last longer. Using the big socket I have and torque wrench was quick and easy. I used a drift to get the locking nut in place and that took a little longer.

 

I wound up splitting the difference in torque settings between the VTR @ 18lbs and CBR @ 14lbs. 16 lbs gave me a 3 ¼ lb pull on the fish scale. I've got the bike back on the ground and the steering feels good. Need to figure out how I'm going to mount the new brake reservoir and a few other things and I can take her out for a test spin. Thanks everyone for the input.