SS lines on - - WOW!!!!
04-18-2008, 04:40 PM
#1
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SS lines on - - WOW!!!!
I just finished installing SS front lines and bleeding. After bleeding each side for hours I still get air bubbles. Im using a mityvac and at first it wasnt holding pressure when attached to the bleeders. I wrapped the bleeder threads with teflon tape and It solved the problem. I going to try the zip tie the handle to the lever tip but have a question. Do you leave the resivior cap off? For some reason there air bubbles when I sucked out the old fluid, I thought they must have been from the bleeder threads but now I dont know. Any thoughts. Even with the apparent air still in the lines the brake lever is much much firmer.
04-18-2008, 05:37 PM
#3
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The bubbles your seeing is probably air coming in from between the mity-vac hose ID and the bleeder OD. If thats the case you've got nothing to worry about as long as you close the bleeder before the mity-vac loses vacuum.
04-18-2008, 06:41 PM
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Yeah I hope so. The brake lever is WAY better so you might be right. I thought the process was taking too long. I bled the rear brakes in about ten minutes though with no bubbles at all. I didnt change the line though just a bleed. The thing is the bubbles dont appear until I open the bleeder. With the bleeder closed, no bubbles and the pressure dosent drop like i figured it would if it was leaking from where you say.
Last edited by StoneJrW; 04-18-2008 at 06:56 PM.
04-18-2008, 06:44 PM
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04-18-2008, 08:04 PM
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I prefer the old fashioned way of bleeding brakes. It just works better. You know when you're done. If you're stuck on the MityVac try gooping up around the threads where the bleeder goes in the caliper with some heavy wheel grease. That'll stop the bubbles. I've never had any luck with the teflon tape.
04-18-2008, 10:15 PM
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I had the same experience the first time using a mityvac. The air you see is coming up from the threads on the bleed screw... Do not leave the brake fluid exposed to air any longer than necessary, as the fluid will draw moisture out of the air and become contaminated - lowers the boiling point - causes sudden loss of hydraulic pressure....I like to use the old mityvac to fill the lines with fresh fluid, then do a manual bleed with the mityvac still attached. That way you can SEE if all the air has been expelled as well as get a feel for the line pressure.
Well worth the $7 cost
04-19-2008, 01:41 AM
#9
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You can leave the caps off of the master cylinders, although when I bled the clutch, a small amount of fluid would squirt up a bit and dribble over the edge of the cylinder, no big deal with some shop rags underneath.
If you use clear tubing and run it to a container with the bottom of the container higher than the bleed valve, then once you've got a couple inches of fluid in the tube you can just leave the valve open, keep working the lever and top off the cylinder as it gets low. When the fluid leaving the bleed valve is clean, you're done.
If you use clear tubing and run it to a container with the bottom of the container higher than the bleed valve, then once you've got a couple inches of fluid in the tube you can just leave the valve open, keep working the lever and top off the cylinder as it gets low. When the fluid leaving the bleed valve is clean, you're done.
04-19-2008, 05:51 AM
#10
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I'm the pepsi can type, I hook up a hose to the bleeder, to the can get the bleeder almost tight so the pressure will drop slower than it could come back when the bottom of the can is covered with oil it can't suck air back in. You could also open fully the bleeder and finger pinch the hose, it will make a check valve
04-19-2008, 06:12 PM
#11
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Hi all, I inject brake fluid upward w/syringe and clear tube w/reservoir open and pump brake and tap the lines until it has firm pressure. I upgraded my brake system w/F4i master (used same brake lever) Russel SS, Ebc brake pads, 01 Suz 6 p/caliper and CRG lever adjustable.
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