bzera

I'm completely lost. I have no spark at the moment. It randomly will come back. But not correctly now. Like maybe a cylinder is out. Getting only one warm pipe if it ran. But mostly no spark.

What I've done.

- new battery - tested and is giving correct volts
- just replaced another rr with mofset rr - tach came back as well as spark. Spark only back for a few mins.
- replaced pulse generator - dont think I could have messed it up And didn't think it was this because problem is the same.
- tried 3 new sets of plugs
- I have done some electrical testing but I'm no expert. Dont think I'm getting peak voltage to coils.

- I've looked to connections to clean. But nothing has corrosion. No buildup. At worst it looks dusty.

I troubleshooted like the manual told me. Fuel reaching carbs. When there is spark it does even need half a crank to start. Pretty sure low peak voltage to none alot of times. Pulse generator wasnt getting .7 volts. All over the place.

I'm worried because my icm was zip tied when I got to it. Manual says dropping it can ruin it. I've already sunk so much money and time into. Been to two shops, ive spent a ton nobody has an idea. Please and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

No spark

Wicky

Swap the coils around and see if the working warm pipe changes. Replace ICM and electrogubbins in tail with second-hand known working modules.

bzera

I got no spark to do coil swap. And 99% of time I don't have it so I can't test to see if other pipe will be hot.

Electrogrubbins? Dunno if I can swap. I will try to swap coils when I get spark back. I would find it hard to believe that it's coils because both fire when I have spark and both go out at same time as well.

Wicky

I was going on this: "Getting only one warm pipe if it ran"

If you've lost all sparks then it'd be quite a coincidence for both coils to fail - check on ebay for used Ignition Module / Converter Unit Module.

NZSpokes

Do you have a multimeter? the manual will give you the resistance of each component. To me it sounds like the pulse gen.

bzera

Yes I do. Tested battery voltage. Tested ignition peak voltage which was low. So back to 17-3 troubleshooting. So I checked ignition pulse generator which was less than .7 peak. Replaced the pulse generator and the problem is the exact same problem. I thought it was pulse gen as well but after replacing and having identical problem I'd assume that's not it.

Got an icm and converter unit on the way.

Thanks for help ideas always welcome

rick

The pulse generator I sent you came of a bike that had spark and started. Check it with a multimeter anyway to rule it out, in case it got damaged in shipping ( i really doubt it's that fragile but... The pulse generator is coil of thin wire and I suppose it is possible to get knocked and the coil breaks???

rick

Since you mentioned R/R issue in the first post, an over voltage situation could have existed and me thinks ICM and ECU would be less likely to survive high voltage vs other components... Just a thought. keeping my fingers crossed as well. You should get the ECU converter and ICM by friday. Swap them both at the same time and test, in case only one component of yours is faulty and that can cause the other to fail..

bzera

Ok recieved the parts and put them on. Bike spark returned and fired right up. As soon as it got up to temp and was idling right about 1100 pretty consistently. Withing the +-100 range. Revved it up and was responsive. Large backfire on decel. Then I looked at my tach and to my horror my odometer went out again. This was a mofset(I think). 2007 zx 6r. RR.

Turnedy bike off right away for fear of further damage. Kid there a good way to test why or if there is something blowing up my electrical?

Any ideas where to start?

rick

That sucks.
I'd start over with trouble shooting your charging system.

But one way to figure out if the issue is caused by the charging system is to fully charge the battery from an external charger, then disconnect the stator ( 3 pin) connector and the R/R from the bike wiring harness.

You should be able to start the bike and run it with just a fully charged battery. If the bike still runs bad there is something wrong with the wiring it ignition system.

Then I'd test the charging system. Check the stator AC output at different rpms. look at all the connectors from the stator and R/R and make sure none are melted/damaged. if you can't start the bike to test the stator, the check the resistance between the 3 stator windings to check for a short.


btw did you check if the kill switch internals are not corroded and not causing and intermittent connection.

bzera

Alright I'll give that a shot for my first check.

Could somebody give me the stock battery for a 99 hawk? Maybe my battery wasnt stock and there is too much juice???! The battery doesn't seem to fit in this like it should.

Hopefully I don't burn out anything else during testing

rick

Too much current from the battery is not going to cause any issues, unless it's not a 12V (nominal) battery. The battery not physically fitting is another issue.

Go over your wiring harness and fuse holders to make sure no connectors are burnt or melted. then do the rest of the trouble shooting stuff

chrisbuggy

Give u a hint. Just been through similar problem. Get a multimeter. There cheap. Set it to read resistance. First ur looking for a low reading. 1.8, 2.0 that ball park. Test the 2 small wires comming out of your COIL at the harness. That is ur primary lead. Next adjust the multimeter to read a number up to 20,000 ohms. Ur looking for any thing over 12,000 or so. Leave one lead touching either side if the two small wires. And touch the other lead where it connects to your spark plug. If you get no reading unscrew the cap assembly ( rubber boot connecting spark plug wire to spark plug) an test again right into the wire. If you get a reading your coil is good cap assembly bad. That's what mine was. To go one farther u can test those also. Should get 5,000 ohms

shadow623_

make sure plugs are clean and are not bad. i had the same issue sounds dumb but my problem was fixed once i got new plugs.

bzera

I resolved my spark problem. New icm and converter.

My newest problem is why on earth my speedo keeps going in and out and I don't have a clue where to start. Pretty sure I got a short somewhere but it looks like they have done their own custom wiring on this in alot of places.

And once today I went to start it and I lost ALL power then came back 5 mins later and it was fine.


If anybody knows where to start that would be great.

Maybe new wiring harness is best?

shadow623_

make sure your terminals are fully on for the power loss and R/R is upgraded. after that i have no idea friend maybe new wiring harness like you said

bzera

I have new rr. Charging correctly at 5k rpms.

I'm think I'm mostly worried about future damage at this point. The rest is cosmetic I can work with